grantf

New gaskets: I still don't know why the old one blew out. This time around I will periodically check the manifold nuts for proper torque. This gasket is different then the Felpro I used last time, It has round ports instead of the "diamond" ones. Also all new studs, shared washers and nuts Manifolds back in place: the nuts are torqued to 13 ft lbs. this just doesn't seem right, but it's what is called for in the FSM. Now its time to connect all of the do-dads. BTW the head is only held down by the two small front bolts and two head bolts just rear of center, they are just snug. This is because I am still waiting for new head bolts to arrive in the mail.

Not so with F.I. You know I did not know that about the manifold gasket. The one I got from MSA is a bit different then the felpro I used last time. I just looked at it installed and I cannot see a thick or thin side. 50/50 chance?? I am not sure why my valve trane is so clean the valve faces though had quite a bit of carbon build up. good luck, looks like you are a step closer than me.

I forgot to put the lower one on and the exhaust heat burned a hole in my PCV hose. It's going back on after I finish torquing the manifold down, BTW have you noticed how little torque is called for the exhaust manifold nuts? I just don't trust such a low torque.

cool, you're car reminds me of my 77 when I first got it. Clogged fuel, rust, P.O. hacks. You are a brave one saving that car with the rust issues, but I am happy it has been saved from the grave. Keep up the good work. Will you do your own welding on the body or hire out?

Cool keep us updated. more pics!

I know. it also held the hood in place. The Z is not fixed yet. Time to relax, have a beer and think about what is next. BTW I did one other thing that helped, I put the bolt in place without the washers at first, that way I could spy down the number 1 hole to see if the pin was lining up. I turned the cam as Blue suggested till it lined up. I then reassembled with the washers in place.

Old gasket: Again why did it blow? the nuts were really loose, should I re torque the new one? Head off looked for cracks and put a straight edge on it, no warping. cleaned the surfaces the best I could, vacuumed out debris and put just a little oil in each cylinder (it just seemed like a good idea). the head is back on. I also took the time to clean out all of the head bolt holes with carb cleaner, ran the cleanest of the old bolts through each and blew them out with compressed air. After fighting the cam sprocket for about an hour, I turned to the experts here and finally got it back on. Thanks again guys.

Don't take this the wrong way but, I love you guys.

Ok I panicked a tad your suggestion helped. As did Blue. Thanks guys!!!! it's back on. And I did block the chain. I did not loose it.

I am putting the head back on. I had the timint set at TDC. Marked the chain link at number 1 (where the pin was set at) now I cant get the spocket to line up with the cam. It will not pull up enough. I tried prying up with a screwdriver and now my arm is shaking from the strain.:mad::mad::mad:

Forget the stink loose the pink. Repaint? will the second one from the right someday look like your avatar? "Yo Wass up yo. check out my new z car is classic yo!, plannin on doin som mods"

I just took the ones off my car on the fourth. No lock washers anywhere for the manifolds. I think they would give a bad torque reading if used.

Yes, They sold there Z for one. Anyhow you have no idea how many stupids I found with my car. Upsidedown thermostat and hacked wireing to start. I just hope that after changing out my head gasket I do not become the dreaded P.O.

Who are you calling old Spicoli?

I pulled the head. No drama. Now it's cleaning time. What a pain in the ars. I noticed that some of the head bolts are pitted with rust. I am thinking of ordering a new set. Any advice on cleaning the valves? there is a ton of carbon build up on all of them expecialy the exhaust valves, or should I just leave them alone?

Update: The manifolds are removed and parts are on the way. It only took me about 2 hours to get this far. The first thing I noticed was all of the shared manifold nuts were loose, way to easy to remove. the exhaust gasket at cylinder 6 was toast. I am going to dive into the head gasket next. So why would all the studs and bolts be so loose? I torqued them to spec last year. Could it be the anti sease I uased? anyhowm new studs and bolts are on the way, I don't think I will be using anti sease in the future for the manifold. and I may do a retorque in the future also. So it looks like all I need to do now is put the timing at TDC and block the chain.

I think he was asking about the arm not the blade.

Are you using subdivition surfaces?

the second picture is for the heater controls, I forget there name. When power is supplied they open to allow vacuum to the vacuum selector behind the heat and fan controls. I believe there is a check valve somewhere in line before the vacuum canister.

I have been looking into a carpet kit also. sorry that yours did not turn out so well, But thanks for posting pictures and the short review. I wish more people would follow up on there end results. I am also discouraged that others did not help you out more before you made you purchase. I remember my 260 having vinyl shock towers and transmission tunnel. Is there a reason you whent with carpet? BTW youre car still looks really nice, you still may be able to work the carpet out a little more, and after the seats are in post pics.

The P.O.'s hack job suggested the recalibration. A long story but if you would like the read: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread42574.html My engine sounded really bad a year ago. Another long story but you can read here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43150.html my engine now has the same sound as before. and I am sure my car has been running lean even before I cut out the cat. My vacuum is lower than 6 months ago with no vacuum hose leaks. believe me I have been searching for vacuum leaks hard for a long time. I am convinced the manifold is leaking and was leaking before I cut out the cat. oh, and yes I am thinking my previously rich condition did have something to do with the cat failing.

You make a good point about re-torquing the manifold bolts, but it is evident that the oil leak is coming from the head. I could see "a bubblin crude" coming from the head gasket at idle. Also there is sizable oil leak above the oil filter and forward of it near cylinder one. I am not trying to get better compression by changing out the head gasket just thinking that perhaps since I am most of the way there by removing both manifolds that it may be a good idea to change it out now rather then later in which case I would be removing the manifolds yet again.On the other hand could I do more damage. The head removal looks straightforward as long as I take my time. After removing the manifolds all that really remains is the timing chain, head cover and the bolts themselves. Am I wrong?

Cool! so it's normal to have spare fasteners left over. I will note that for my weekend work planed.

Guzzi is running fine. I can change out the manifold gasket in a weekend. should I go ahead and change out the head gasket since I am halfway there anyhow? What could have caused the manifold gasket to blow?

No Sir. just a straight pipe. The sound though is coming from the engine compartment. Also I have low vacuum and I am running lean, It did improve a little after removing the cat. I had to adjust the AFM to compensate, not something I think is a great idea but I do have the spring tension marked from calibrating it last year so I can return it later. Anyhow I plan on a new exhaust in the near future and I am close to certain that the manifold is leaking.