grantf

I think Branham76 has started three threads regarding the same problem. From what I have read I think you need to double check the coil to distributor connection. Then when it runs you can drive up here to Seattle and help fix my car.

Sorry I skipped right past you're post Zed Head. So have I verified the operation of the breaker plate by using the mighty vac? It did move clockwise while applying vacuum. What should I expect to see on the timing with it disconnected (what do you mean by off-idle?) and while revving it up? I am starting to think that there is little else to test other than compression.

Work would best be done with the hood off the car. I took a second look at mine and you are correct there are inner hood structures that would prevent a dolly from contacting the outer skin at the very front. If I were doing the work I would weld rod to the dents and pull them also I would use a shrinking hammer. When I mentioned heat I was referring to heating the metal as you work and quickly quench it with water, this shrinks the metal so as to prevent the pop canning (popping in and out). For some one that does not do body work every day I would suggest a set of hammer and dollies from harbor freight. If you work it right you will still need body filler but not much try for less then 1/8 inch. My car after cutting, welding and one dent i think i had less then that, closer to 1/16 inch of filler.

sorry, the description sounded like one of those lower your mpg scams. I would imagine a hydrogen vehicle not using the stock motor at all.

Got Gas? not trying to be funny. just asking.

My wires are Beldin. I have been meening to switch to NGK plugs for a while just haven't gotten around to it yet. I put the timing light on the car today. I am 13.5 deg advanced, idle at about 850 rpm. I also checked the vacuum advance on the dizzy using the mighty vac, it advanced and seemed to hold a vacuum at about 10 hg (I dont really trust my mighty vac that much so for most measurements I am using a dedicated vacuum gauge). I also pulled the hoses from the NPT valve and EGR. Did not make a bit of difference at idle, though I noted that the NPT to EGR tube spit out what seemed like warm exhaust with trace fluid, most likely water. I am thinking that my manifold gasket is leaking, the engine sounds a little like it did before I replaced it about a year ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43150.html I just don't know if this can account for the major loss of power I am experencing and why I would blow a new gasket after only one year. I drove the car around the block again, under load it does not like to rev past 2500 rpms at idle it runs really rough at 4000. still stumped.

did the canister say "Brita" on the side?

Hammer, doly and heat.

If you do try to drill it using care you may want to try using a left hand drill bit and drill in reverse that way once the bit bites it may free up and unscrew. Anyhow keep soaking it.

So I straightened the air meter flap as best I could and found that the sticky area was were the inner flap rubbed inside the top section. I found this out only by removing the waffle side cover. It moves smooth now. But Alas this hase not solved the main problem. I have checked the spark plugs 1 through 5 looked light grey with a little build up. 6 looked tan. All were dry no gas or oil. My vacuum read 10 hg at the heater control tube and 10 hg at the brake booster tube. So I am ruling out a brake booster leak. I know this seems to be low vacuum, my car has always been under 17. I just can not seem to find any leak, I even sprayed carb cleaner around any place I could think of and no increase in idle. My fuel pressure with the car not running reads 40 psi and 37 psi while running. I am starting to get bumbed. I am running out of tests and dont know where to go from here. Bad Cat?, blown manifold gasket?, blown head gasket? :ogre:

I painted my car with single stage ppg shopline. I was on a budget. Some will swear by two stage as you can color sand and buff it out for more depth and gloss. I am not disappointed with the job I did considering am not a pro body guy and I was not going for a showroom finish. It's up to you and youre budget.

thanks blue. So today I replaced the PCV hose. This was a cause of some problems. I ran the engine, the engine did not like to rev past 4000 rpm. the engine wold shake and a unusuall noise came from the AFM. I removed it and found that it sticks at about 60% open. also the vain is bent. I have seen this happen too others on the board. I need to think this one through a little in order to try to rectify the problem. here are few pics: I have not checked the plugs yet, that is next. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet that will also happen when the AFM is put back in I have not tested the vacuum yet that will come after the the fuel pressure. I do not think that my AFM being in its current condition is helping, but I am not convinced that it is the main culpret.

I made a pretty extensive EFI tune up on my car about a year ago. The car has run pretty good till now. Before the tune up it was running way rich, I had black deposits on my rear bumper and left tail lens.After the adjustments my MPG went from about 9 to close to 20. tomorrow I plan on making the usual tests, fuel pressure and vacuum. also I will check my AFM for proper function. My car is exempt from emissions here in Seattle.

Leave it at + 10 for now but as many have stated 5 deg advance is normal for a smooth running engine.

Hmmm I am just thinking a little bit....... I dug out my old drivers side sun visor that states: "A catalitic converter is used in this model for cleaner air. The following instructions should be observered to AVOID LOSS OF FUEL ECONOMY AND DAMAGE TO THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER * DO NOT RACE ............. ect. ect." So I believe I do have a cat and not just a resonator. I am thinking about removing it and putting in a strait pipe as a test. I do not have much experiance working with exhaust. the cat has been welded in. could I put in a strait pipe with clamps to test? By the way my car had been running rich for quite some time, I have heard that this is bad for catalitic converters and my tranny tunnel does get really hot.

For the last 10 days my 77 seems to be loosing power. It idles just fine and revs great. But under load it has does not have any power. Uphill is the worst. it seems to be getting worse and I can hear a whistle from somewere forward of the drivers seat. Its hard to pin down because it only does this under load but not at idle. A coworker suggested it may be a clogged catalitic, but I am not really convinced, I am not discounting it ether. I have found no smoking gun in the vacuum leak department other than the bad PCV hose. It is sealed up with a tempory fix till the new one arrives. I dont think it's fuel delivery (not discounting it yet). Anyhow I am sort of at a loss of were to start. My car has been running great for about a year now since I last chased down some EFI culprets. oh and all cylinders are operating (pulled each plug cable out one at a time).

Captain you beat me to it by one minute.

Pic of braided hose? Heat shield is reinstalled (I was lazy after replacing the manifold gasket, a no no).

Well it's just a motorcycle and I think MSA is located here on the west coast. So I only have to lift it till Monday, worst case scenario. I may be skinny but I am strong.

It will run. I will take it on one trip to my girlfriends and pick up my motorcycle till the hose arrives in the mail.

I think I have oil leaks all over just not so bad as to make me want to do major repairs. Rear main may be leaking a little. I fix them as I go.

looks strait forward and simple, but my question is why? I see people using aftermarket fuel rails and homemade ones from time to time but is there a reason other than it looks neat?

As stated above it has been ordered (from MSA). It is amazing how sensitive the 280z's EFI system is to vacuum leaks.

Thats what I was thinking till I found a hole the size of my thumb on the back side near the T.B. I order a new hose before posting. but what do I do for now? I wrapped the old hose in e- tape just as an experiment. And at least my car will stay running. Now I know why there is a lower heat shield (not currently installed but its going back on tonight). I don't trust the e tape fix at all but I need to do something till the new one arrives. Perhaps It's Moto Guzzie time for a while.

Has anyone seen a hose that looks like this? Nothing really holding it together I could just pull it apart with two fingers. Another P.O.'s hack? and why have I missed this for so long. Could this be giving me a massive vacuum leak? Oil leak?