grantf

My sincerest apologies as looking at the tank for sale it is a 77 not a 75! I have the 75 FSM but not the 77, I am guessing the 77 and 78 are identical.

The whole rear floor changed. That's what I needed to know thanks.I will stay with a 77-78 fuel tank and think hard about options. Performance Radiator in Tacoma quoted about 325 clams to clean and line the tank. A bit pricey I think. Has anyone here in Seattle had there tank serviced at a radiator shop.

I have heard bad things about POR-15, breaking down with today's fuel additives. I am reluctant to put the 75 tank in until i know it will bolt up.

my fuel tank has rust causing the fuel line to clog up before the fuel pump, I have found a good replacement taank but my car is a 78 and the replacement is a 75 looking at both FSM's the illustrations look a little different, can I swap on out for the other.

I understand that the relay in no way is incorporated into the head light circuit. as my car is 60 miles away and I need to get these working before i drive it home I plan on temporarily wiring the lights turn signals and wipers to switches and bypassing the combo switch. As I need to remove the dash board in order to repair or replace it, it would then be a good time to systematically go through the wiring, it has been severely butchered by the previous owner. I think I know how to test the relay.

why can't you drive you're z in the winter?

funny that the oem pump has a screen built in that you can actually service!!

sorry I know this might be vague but what is the possibility of the combination switch being the nature of the problem?

yes I have the 78 fsm, I printed both circuits (lights and signals) and have them on hand during diagnoses.I would not post a question to this board before looking things over myself, I was hoping for others with more experience to perhaps point out a common solution. So another question is the ignition relay testable? and is it available?

is there such a thing as an ignition relay on a 78 280z????

I put a cheap fuel pump on my 78 280z, and the car ran great!!!! for about 1 day. I took the pump out and tested it with jumpers and it would not run, so for s&g's I tested the old oem fuel pump and it ran!! still have it my car! (I might consider opening it up and looking for contaminants).

has anyone seen the relay I mentioned on a 78??? also having a problem with my head lamps not working (the same jumping method mentioned above worked).

on my $300 280z I have had a rear end clunk, first noticed a BADLY worn half shaft u-joint, took about 40 min to replace. test drove the car and the clunk was better but not gone, so I inspected the drive shaft and there seemed to be some play in it. I was wrong (a good thing), the play seemed to originate from the other half-shaft when I removed it I felt for play and there was but really minimal. After replacing the two u-joints on the second one the clunk is 90% cured. I might replace the last one and see what improvements I get, but now I'm thinking about looking at my transmission mount also!

having a hell of a time getting my turn signals to work, after about 2 hours of exploring I found no power to the flashers on the fuse panel (both sides of the fuse). so I jumped a wire from the pos on the battery to the back of the fuse panel and bingo they worked. so I follow the line from the fuse panel and I believe it connects to the ignition relay, does this sound correct? if it's a bad relay, there seems no place to buy them, the catalogs I've seen only have them for zx's:ermm:

I do not owned a zx nor do i want one but..... I know most of you have probably already seen this.

sblake01 thanks, the older drive shaft is still an option.I did not consider it a possibility tell you mentioned it. so my options are the drive line shop or an older drive shaft if I can find one near me soon.

sorry I forgot to mention, this site RULLES!!

thanks for the info, but just to make sure, will a 240 or 260 shaft fit a 78 5 speed tranny. I did call around and there is a place in georgetown (Seattle) called drive-line northwest, they said they specialize in non serviceable shafts for BMW, Mercedes, and all other imports, they said they might be able to service it (cost $30 (u-joint)+ $15.50(service) & balancing. I know of two people who have used them and say they do good work. Any thoughts?

can i replace the u-joints on my 78 280z. the manuals say no, but I just replaced one on one of the half shafts with no problem at all. thing is there is another bad one on the drive shaft (propeller shaft). do I need to replace the whole thing??? P.S. I have a 5 speed.

is not contact cement remover acitone?

260z's were only made in 74. i miss my old one.:disappoin

sorry stupid post but the oversized rear spoiler just bugs me that's all. on a race track anything goes. (including carbon fiber legs!)

sorry I am new here, but I just have to say Wings on z-cars look stupid. imho :pirate:

is there a grey area between the 260 and 280's??????? but if it's a carb you can go electric. if its efi it must be.

yes it is a 78 the red pinstripping is a little faded..... just kidding it's original color was yellow.(but it is a 78)