grantf

Thanks for the tips and getting that song stuck in my head.

Thanks, I am just trying not to run into any little snags along the way. I think on the plus side I have a new head gasket. Will I nead to drop the oil pan? FSM time I think. I am thinking of getting the MSA kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2051 Will I need a new oil pump gasket? does the Dizzy require a gasket?

So I am going to remove the front cover. :ogre: Today put the front up on ramps, drained the coolant (AGAIN!), removed the AFM, air cleaner, top and bottom shroud, skid plate, radiator and fan. So is my next step to put the engine at TDC? I have never removed the dizzy or oil pump before.

I think you have answered my question and perhaps saved me another gasket blow out.

I am now intrigued. Yes there is some plastic left on both guides, but worn way down. I guess I do not understand how any of the thermostat bolts could produce this situation. Hmmm. I think we are finding something. More exploration tomorrow. yes there were oil marks that looked like the chain guides in oil thread but I cleaned them off from the inside of the valve cover and found no evidence of the chain rubbing it. as a matter of fact I do not think that was the case in that thread, I think it is a common oil varnishing. As stated above this condition existed before I did any work replacing the head. The only work on the head was cleaning the mating surfaces, cams, and oiling it before running. but the chain looks way close to the guide. hmmmm

I think I just noticed something else strange about your AFM. I am not trying to confuse your situation. But it does look like you current AFM has a cut off switch. whether it is used or not is another issue. I can see the switch arm in the upper right side of you upside down photo. My car uses that switch. yours probably does not. Just noting it that's all. Good job on the AFM find though. Edit: my AFM (early 77) is a A 31-605 000

That one I have not tried, but my car will not run with the oil cap removed. Way to much of a vacuum leak there. I just removed the valve cover and turned the motor with my remote starter. I can see oil exiting the lobes and some dripping from the oil bar. I am ruling out the spray bar as a culprit. I also felt the tension on the chain. I can find no slack at all on ether side. It is really tight. Here are some photos of the chain and guides: Sorry about the bad photography and I am sure the third photo is of little value, I took it mostly to see down inside further.

I got all of them from MSA. none were felpro. I was not really impressed with the felpro manifold gasket I got from Napa.One gasket for the head, one gasket for the exhaust/intake and the exhaust downpipe to manifold.

No worries, Sometimes a sense of humor in needed more often around these parts. I removed the one and only belt, started the car (only ran for 4 sec tops). The noise is still there. I am ruling out the alternator. I used a long stick as a stethoscope. I know it's not accurate but the sound is just as loud at the rear of the valve cover as the front. I tried to get the stick as close to the front cover without hitting the belt or fan and it was quite a bit quieter, but I am not thinking this meens much as the stick to the alternator was really loud. I am going to remove the valve cover and look at the oiling to see what I can find.

one problem with the 280 bumpers is the rubber ends may not fit right. that is if you could even find them in ok condition. if your trying to save money, what about buying 240 bumpers that have worn chrome and painting them.

Sorry I have never taken the wiper assembly apart before. I am not sure but perhaps you may still be able to calibrate it to work properly. It sure does look messed with though.

Thanks guys for the ideas. It's good to know about other tests. I fear it may be the timing chain, but I will examine further. I have AC but there is no belt on it right now, never has been since I owned the car.

350 for a rebuilt engine is a great price, BUT do you trust it and who rebuilt it? How well was you engine running before you lost the valve keeper? just a thought.

I concur, You may be in search of another afm. Perhaps try the wrecking yards and find one that at least is intact and ether calibrate it yourself or use as a core for a replacement. Looking at your pictures does not at all look like mine (1977). note: this picture was taken when I found someone had molested my AFM, then sloppy glue blobs are not what you should see in a stock AFM, they should just be small dabs of glue.

hmm, interesting. I do have a spray bar. I also think that I have a cam that self oils I can see little holes on the cam lobes. the upper side of the head has always looked super clean and well oiled, but I will take a look at it tomorrow. It costs nothing and well worth a look.

May be cheaper to get another block.

So, my car is back together. it runs, way better then before I pulled the head, but the engine is making a sound I don't like at all. It is sort of a "wirring" sound. sort of like metal is scraping during rotation. the frequency and pitch increase with higher RPMs. Please note that this was happening before I did any work on the car. As a matter of fact I thought it was a vacuum or exhaust leak a while back before I started the work. With the hood down at higher rpms it sounds almost like a low whistle. A little more info: when I removed the head the number one dimple was in between two chain links, not centered on a bright link (i could not find a bright link). the chain guides are looking a bit worn, but the plastic was still there and the chain seemed tight. Any ideas?

I bought the same stud kit and installed both mnifolds. Hmm time to rethink this now. I may go with lock washers.

I have never heard of "injectors pulsing to fast" on a FI Z. perhaps running to rich due to any number of factors including, bad wiring, bad water temp sensor, thermotime switch, stuck CSI, malfuctioning AFM, or TPS. Edit: bad FPR? did you test after it? is the vacuum line to it fuctioning?

I still have both magnet valves on my car. I do not use them though. I have bypassed the vacuum to both. My AC is inoperable, never has been since I owned the car. My heater controls work just fine. I may hook them back up some day just to see what difference they make.

I keep thinking I am bumping my own thread, so here is my last post: I have the whole engine back together, did a look over, put coolant in and planned on giving it an oil change tomorrow before starting it up, But I could not help myself. I turned the key and it started right up. Idles low but nothing unusual. I only ran the car for maybe 30 to 40 seconds and shut it down, cracked a beer, and posted here. Yey my first head R&R!

could you steal reinforced fiberglass bumpers? just a thought.

Well theres yer problem. Can you show pictures? If you are lucky you did not bend a valve. I am not an expert on the valve train. I wonder if there is a way to find out without pulling the head.

shop vac time! The more I look at you're car the more it reminds me of mine when I got it. I payed $300. Not even expecting it to go as far as it has come. I have been lucky in that I have access to a MIG welder and have had some practice with it before I started. I will say this though, don't give up on the car and don't think you cannot weld or do body work. It is a skill like any other and can be learned. Not try to put down the pros by any means, but it can be done.

do you mean the first cylinder the one closest to the front of the car? I would at lest take off the valve cover and take a look just to see if every thing is in order. With the cams pointed up there should be some play. I would also check timing. The term knock sounds vague to me.