mbentsen

Well, Feeling a bit inspired after reading the other post in this thread. Like others, time seem to be a major limiting factor in the Z project world. My project started about 3.5 years ago and I intend to finish it before September 2006. Status: Major rust repairs complete (floors replaced, door frames repaired/reskinned, hatch replaced, Sills repaired, Roof repaired above rear quarters, frame rails repaired/modified for large radiator), Body completed (G-nose installed and perfected, custom S/S bases installed in doors for sports mirrors, rear bumber "shaved" off, rear modified to suit a tight fitting 4" exhaust tip, body lead wiped/plastic filled, completely resprayed in Sting red (Holden), body spayed under neath with "body shultz"). The R32 RB20DET was installed using custom mounts to get it low and back in the engine bay and the gear stick lines up correctly. Intercooler and exhaust plumbing complete. Fuel/brake lines to do. Have ordered all wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bellows, Tokico HP shock inserts and more from All Z parts. Should have it by the weekend and will hopefully be even more inspired to get this Z going, and fast I might add... Does anybody know a good RTA engineer to certify modifiations on the Sydney upper north shore?... I am going to need this after the law changed in february this year! Plan to "get back" and add pictures to my gallery to help others. Sorry about the length of this..... Michael

I work in a engineering team, as a projects supervisor at Network Ten - a commercial television network down under. I am doing a lot of CAD dwg's of systems, furniture and floor plans for TV stations and manage projects, timelines and budgets. Don't know why my 240z project doesn't seem to follow any timeline nor stick to a budget, and isn't finished yet....... I keep telling myself it's all about the journey.... My job is pretty cool, as long as I can stay clear of any "talent" or producer, whose ego's are per default unbelieveable large.

Hi Mike, Bet you can't wait til Sunday. Who is spraying it for you? Two-pack? Sydney based? Cost? I will be very interested in any information like that. Thanks, Michael

I am getting close to the final body prep for painting my 240z project. Unsure of which way to go in regards to painting it. I have some experience with Dulux Dulon acrylic and Wattyl acrylic paint systems (Australian brands). The Dulon came up nice but not excellent, while the Wattyl system performed not well at all. Now, I am wondering of options for a more durable solution. Has anybody any experience with iso-free topcoats? For cost reasons I am needing to do this at home. Has anybody survived spraying iso 2 packs at home, then please comment whether this is a real alternative DIY style. Any prefered paint systems/brands (Australia)? General advice appreciated. Am I kidding myself expecting a high quality job at home, should I rather get it done professionally and suffer the high cost? Thanks for your time. Michael

Hi lonetreesteve, If good quality doors are available where you live, I agree with you. However, I havent been able to find sound doors down under. As well as that, when you completely restore things, you know for certain, that there is no rust trapped in joints etc. Good point though. Michael

Hi Terry, I bought the skins at "All Z parts" in Sydney, Australia. They are locally made, with some improvements over the originals. I paid AU$250 ea. Hopefully you can find some in the US, if not I know that "All Z parts" do import and export bits. Here is a web site link: www.allzparts.com.au Best regards, Michael

Hi There, I will shortly undertake the replacement of a door skin on my 240. Not having done this before, I am just wondering if anybody out there, who have done this, can offer some good advise. Questions that pop up are: How many welds to hold it in place? Ways of stopping rust between panels? A panel beater once told me, not to weld it. Just Use POR-15 around the joints he said, and fold over the metal before it dries. This way a good rust proof seal/adherence is achieved. I dont know about you but I would like at least some welds, call me old fashioned. Opinions please. Michael

Hi There, I have some experiences with bullet mirrors. First of all, don't buy chrome on alloy. I did, and the chrome pitted with-in 12 months. Chrome on brass may be better, but why not go all the way, and buy stainless steel ones. I just bought a pair of UK made "TEX Torpedo" stainless mirrors, for only AU$65 each from "MIDEL" in Sydney, australia. Only problem is that the glass is flat ,and not convex. I have convex in my current mirrors, and am loving it. Planning to either swap or replace the glass, to end up with convex glass. Have a look at this web site: http://www.classic-car-accessories.co.uk/acatalog/Home_EXTERIOR_8.html Best regards, Michael

24 Years near Copenhagen in Denmark and 13 Years in Sydney Australia. I Believe the two locations are on pretty much on opposite sides of the planet. My Parents reckons I am just trying to get away from them, they could be right...... Michael

I concur with BRETT240. They look like genuine 1.75" SU carbies bought from MIDEL in Sydney (The linkages, filters and carbs are identical to mine). I installed mine around eight years ago and have never looked back. They came out of the box with the mixture correctly set and after the balancing improved my cars performance 500%. But then again, my old carbs were leaking a bit of air around the throttle shafts. Don't know how they compare to a set off new Hitachi round tops. Best regards, Michael I

Thanks for all the help. I have now manufactured suitable hinges for my G-nose. They look nothing like stock, but the geometry is correct and they are very light. The secret lies in that the pivoting point is actually excactly where the third top bolt, on the standard hinges, mount. I cannot believe the hinges I was sold years ago from a reputable Z shop was so wrong. If anybody else need more info let me know. Michael

Thanks Mate, That is very helpful. I will go home tonight and contemplate how to make these hinges. Thanks a million. Michael

Hi Chris, That's excellent thankyou. I asume the RHS hinge would be a true mirror of the LHS picture your sent us. Correct? I should be able to manufacture these based on your picture. The bolt holes distance would be the scale reference. Could you measure the holes center to center please? Am I correct in saying, that these hinges only mounts with 2 bolts, not 3 like the standard ones? Would you have a picture of the back side and one showing the profile as well, by any chance? Thank you again, this Z forum and it's subscribers are the best! Michael

Hi There, I am with you Eric. Bonnet hinges to suit a G-nose are needed "down under" as well. I bought some modified hinges a long time ago with a G-nose, but they were completely wrong in their geometry. Does anybody have any pics showing the design of the genuine (or non genuine that works) ? Somebody out there, must have the details, maybe even a sketch/drawing with dimensions- please? They seem to be in short supply anywhere. Thanks, Michael :classic:

Hi Rusty1, Sorry, I just checked it last night and it is a 5 AM preset radio only. Michael

Hi Rusty1, I have a 73' 240Z OEM radio. Not sure if that carried forward to the 74' 260Z. Best regards, Michael

Yes, you do have to drill out the spotwelds in the seat supports to replace the floor pans. It's no big deal though, if you have a good quality spotweld drill bit. My seat supports were quite rusty at the bottom, so I ended up sandblasting them before, the new floors were put in and POR15 painted. You might find your chassis rails underneath the floors are rusty or rotten as well. The good news is that they are easy to make up. I ended up replacing one and sand blasting the other. Then I applied POR15 paint to the bottom and side of them, before spotwelding the floor pan to the frame rail. I had to make up some joining pieces of steel plate, since the replacement pans weren't quite big enough. All the best of luck. PS The job will take you several full days, if you want a good looking result. Michael

All Z parts in Thornleigh Sydney Australia sold me a copy of the genuine one for AU$750. The quality is very high. It is a one piece, but it is molded of the real thing and looks good. I have had another so called copy before, and that was slightly too long and the shape wasn't right . Never again! Warren at All Z parts gets these made up from a master he has. The fit is reasonable. I have only trial fitted it so far. I seems that the front distance for the hood is spot on, but the rear is 5mm too wide. I'm happy cutting two slight wedges out of it to get it perfect, since the overall shape is excellent. Strength wise it's good too. It's made with 6 layers of fibreglass. But no it doesn't have nutserts for Guards etc. If you would like I can take a photo and post it. Michael

Just wondering if anybody has had any experiences using a isocryanite free paint available at "Auto one" stores in Australia. It is a clear two pack paint, that goes on top of a acrylic colour coat, to give it instant shine and durability. The survival statistics, of the DIY spraygun operator, is apparently better that normal two pack paint. Thanks, Michael

Hi Ivan, That's pretty strict in the old NZ. WOF inspections every six months. It is 12 months here in NSW Australia. In other states here, inspections are only required with change of ownership. By the way can you believe that I don't need to have a engineers certificate to replace the engine? Our Roads and Traffic Authority are only concerned with Engine displacement increases when doing an engine conversion. It will get it looked over anyway for my own piece of mind. I went out and measured the center of the crankshaft to the bottom of the crossmember last night. It is 200mm exactly. It sounds like were are close to a similar stage in the RB conversion. After I have done the intercooler plumbing, everything will be removed from the shell again for bodywork/paint to be finished. Thanks for your info so far. Michael

Hi Steve, Does the suggested late 260Z tank have a real surgetank inside, improved baffels or simply just larger in and outlet lines? Michael PS What sort of drive train are you running in yours?

Hi Ivan, What does WOF mean? My RB20DET's sump lines up with the bottom of the cross member. I have modified, read cut and welded, the RB20 sump to retain the same capacity and provide a safe clearance to the oil galleries. I would love to know your distance from the center of the crankshaft pulley to the bottom of your crossmember. Maybe a RB25 is different with respect to the oil gallery height? Maybe the ZR200 sump is just higher? Love to know the answers. Michael