Everything posted by mbentsen
-
Photos Down Loaded
If the rules in NZ are the same as Australia, which is very likely, I'm afraid that it its taken from the lowest point on the car. If I recall the stock clearance is 150mm, so you would end up with the same height as my car. How come your sump is that low? What engine is in the car?
-
Photos Down Loaded
Sadly Australia never saw the 280Z, so that option is out. Knocking of the line does worry me. However I have used a piece of threaded tubing to join the plumbing 90 degree corner to where the plug used to be. Then the hole thing is soldered together with and a support soldered to the tube as well. To be even more on the safe side, I am considering making a shield or brackets to protect it even more. I have seen more dangerous designs, including hoses underneath and the like, but you are right, it is a concern. By the way, I am only going to lower it 25-30 mm. The legal clearance in NSW Australia is 100mm. Michael
-
Photos Down Loaded
Yes, that was the idea Ivan. I didn't want a external surge tank with the associated low pressure feeding fuel pump. I am trying to keep this car as simple as possible. My thoughts were that the cavity between the baffles, where the old exit tube sucked from, would work as a small surgetank. I think the volume is less that 8 liters between the baffles, so a stable supply should be possible down to say 5 liters. The other option is of course to cut the tank open and install a internal surgetank. What do think? Rgds, Michael
-
Crack Between Rear Pillar and Roof
Hi Mike, Sorry to scare you, but you may want to check metal behind your crack. If you check out my gallery photos you'll see what I mean. Both sides of my 240z 73' looked not to bad from the outside, until I began to investigate the undelying layers of metal. It seems like the metal wasn't treated properly from Datsun. You might be able to poke a little dentist mirror and flashlight through gaps from the inside, to get a view, without cutting it open. I hope you don't have the rust that I had. Rgds, Michael
-
Photos Down Loaded
HI ALL, I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF FITTING A R32 RB20DET DRIVE TRAIN INTO A 73' 240Z. I'M A BIT UNSURE WHETHER THE STOCK 240Z FUEL TANK BAFFELS ARE SUFFICIENT FOR NORMAL STREET USE. RUNNING A NEW COMMODORE VL TURBO FUEL PUMP AND USING THE OLD DRAIN HOLE FOR FUEL EXIT, I'M HOPING THE OEM BAFFELS SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. THE OLD EXIT IS USED AS A RETURN LINE. THE OLD RETURN LINE IS SOLDERED CLOSED. THE TWO BAFFELS ARE APPROX 200MM APPART WITH THE EXIT IN THE MIDDLE. ANOTHER CONCERN IS THAT I WOULD CLOSE UP THE BAFFLE GAPS BY USING POR15 SLOSHING FUELTANK SEALING PAINT. TO ME IT LOOKS LIKE THE FUEL ESCAPES THROUGH THE TINY GAP BETWEEN THE SPOTWELDS OF THE BAFFELS TO THE FUEL TANK. SHOULD I CUT OPEN THE TANK, AND DRILL SOME SMALL HOLES INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE BAFFELS, JUST IN CASE? WHAT ABOUT THE EVAPOARATIVE POLUTION GEAR (CHARCOAL CANISTER), ANY SUGGESTIONS HOW TO FIT IT? CHECK OUT THE FRESHLY DOWNLOADED PHOTOS IN THE GALLERY SECTION. REGARDS, MICHAEL
- EXHAUST PLUMBING
- EXHAUST 4 INCH OUTLET
- MANDREL BENT 30 DEGREE BEND
-
R32 BRAKE AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDERS COMPARED WITH OEM 240Z
-
SUMP ON - WITH DIPSTICK AND OIL PICK-UP SHOWING
- SUMP - DIPSTICK MOVED TO THE REAR HOLE
- REAR BUMPER INDENTS FILLED
- LHS ROOF REPAIRED
- LHS ROOF - RUST CUT OUT
- FLOOR PANS REPAIRED
- RHS FLOOR READY FOR NEW FLOOR PAN
- RHS FLOOR BAD RUST
-
FUEL SETUP
- MY PLAY GROUND
- CAR UP AND ENGINE TO SLIDE UNDER
- FINAL GEAR STICK POSITION
- FINAL ENGINE POSITION - TOP VIEW
- FINAL ENGINE RESTING POSITION
- TEMPORARY GEARBOX MOUNT
- LHS ENGINE MOUNT