mbentsen

Yes, it will not bolt on, but slide straight in. The surrounding collar seems a bit small on the 240z shaft to keep out dust and dirt. Any opinions on this? I might try and source a R32 to yoke, since the drive shaft is going to be shortened anyway. Michael

Ivan, My starting point was to use the stock tail shaft. It can be used, as well as the LHS engine mount from R32. But the gearstick sits about 70mm too forward in the car. Height wise the engine will just clear the towers, using a long spirit level running between the guard mounting flanges. The engine will be sitting on a slope on about 10 degrees or more (gearbox end down and front up). I'm not sure if this is healthy oilwise in the engine/gearbox, any opinions on this? I have decided to lower the engine as far as is posible neatly and shift it back leaving about 40mm clearance to the firewall. This has got to be the most important decision in engine conversion. Any shortcut and it will come and bite you.... Michael

Mike240, I will keep you up to date with progress and I have considered electric fan/fans. I have used a electric fans a few times in different cars, and have so far not seen any to be as efficient as a stock fan. I the old days without a fan clutch, I would aggree with you on loosing engine power, but I think these days it would be minimal paracitic drag on the engine. My car has a G-nose on it so with a good fan shroud and ducting, a stock fan would keep the radiator/engine and turbo cool. The two little flaps, next to the bonnet, will have vents in them for hot air exit. Your solution would look neat and be simple to install though. Like any big project,you need to divide it into subprojects, so I have concentrate on sump mods and engine/gear box mounts first and then see about the cooling. Michael

Ivan, I have seen the Charles William website. That was probably the main inspiration of my project. Have you modified your sump yet? Any thoughts re engine position? Michael

Hi Cuong, I have studied hybridz with interest, but even moreso your photo gallery. The quality of the work you have done is impressive. I a bit of a perfectionist myself, which slows a project like this down. I'm battling on at the moment with modifying the sump. I moved the oil dipstick to the rear in the block (factory drilled), and modified the sump to have the same oil capacity, but clearing the steering rack. Nearly finished welding it back up, but when checking it's straightness found it to be slightly warped. I will now have to cut it in two spots secure it to a piece of 32mm plywood and re-weld it. There would be nothing worse that a leaking sump! If I started all over again I would do it this way: Fix the sump to a 32mm piece of plywood using many screws. Cut the sump 10mm above the mating surface all around. Turn the top 180 degrees. Panel beat the top for a perfect fit and reweld. I think this would have saved me a lot of time. Any way too late for that. Michael

I love driving my Zed with windows down and my arm resting on the top of the door. I have lifted my seats up to maximum height, leaving me 1" distance to the roof lining. This gives me a better view over the bonnet. I want to modify my Wipers to be less obstrubtive. Has anybody done this? On top of this, I'm going to lower my car about 1" - to get the "sitting on the road" feel back. PS I drive with my seat 2 clicks forward from rear position, I guess I'm lucky being 6ft4.... I still believe, whatever your height or sitting position, you can make a Z the best ride you can have..... Michael

I've got two late 73' 240Z's which both had MPH speedos. I bought a KPH speedo from SSS in Sydney years ago. I believe it came out of a 260Z, which I'm told were all KPH's. I'm sure Warren, at All Z parts in Thornleigh Sydney, would have one in stock for you. This is a straight swap by the way. While you are at it, you might want to consider changing the water temp gauge as well, from Fahrenheit to Celcius in a similar fashion. I also want to change my Amp meter out with a Volt meter at a later date. Yes you guessed it: 260Z as well. Good luck. Mbentsen

Thanks Mr Camouflage, Using the search function on this amazing website is a really efficient way of getting the info needed fast. I think contacting members using personal messages, stops other members getting the same useful information I am after. Is there any sort of unwritten rules in this regard for this, in this forum? I believe what I am trying to do (read: doing) is something that loots of people are interested in. I wonder how many? Please reply to this if you are or want to put a RB engine into a 240/260 Z. Thankyou all for all your inspiring contributions. Mbentsen:geek:

Hi All, This is my first forum entry, so I hope I'm doing it the right way. I am currently installing a RB20DET out of a R32 skyline half cut into a 1973 240Z. The sump/oil pick up modification will be initiated the next couple of days. I will document this and post photos to help others. I can't find any on the web for a reference. What is really needed is specific dimensions/photos showing the modification. Have you come across anything like that? I'm a little unsure how far back I should mount the engine gearbox. With un-modified front engine mounts, the tail shaft length is correct, but the gear stick sits about 70mm to far forward compared to stock. If I move it back I need: To get the tail shaft shortened/balanced (AU$170), make up new front and rear engine mounts and make a large fan shroud for good cooling. All that is fine, just a lot of work and a few dollars, but I'm worried about the balance of the car. I wouldn't want too much weight to the rear. I think stock is 52% front and 48% rear so it's pretty close to ideal. Do you have any experiences with this? Regards, Michael