IdahoKidd

His post 7 came up while writing my post 8..... 3 quarts of oil in a 1000 miles is over the top. Something is wrong inside. 180K miles on these motors isn't a big deal when properly maintained. For all we know, it hasn't had much in the way of oil changes, etc etc. I'd still check the basics discussed here and would be looking for a known good used engine ($200 to ?? -wouldn't pay over $600 and there are 100's out there) or pony up and spend $2000 if the rest of the car warranted it.

Get the factory service manual. There is on available online, (someone here will need to chime in and get you a link). That will give you a starting place. You can have a lot of little things that all add up. Personally, I'd put in a new fuel filter and check the fuel pressure first. Then I'd check the timing. Check to see that the dist plate moves with vacuum (even sucking on an attached tube) and I'd spray wd all over the thing (inside, including the cap). Cozye is correct, a bad temp sensor, or one that has a poor electrical fitting will mess things up. My personal experience is that so long at the compression between the cylinders is 10% variation, it should run along fine. You didn't say how long you've had the car-more specifically, how long it has been setting. Rotten gas and a sludged up tank are big issues with these cars. When you replace the filter, tap the "in" side gently on a white paper towel and see if little fragments of crud come out. Could be a sign. Let us know what you find. Leonard

When you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it? If you didn't, with someone holding the pedal down, crack the bleeder screws on the side of the master just under the bowls. If you get air, do it a couple of times until no more air, then rebleed the system.

Pages AC 8, 9, 10 in the factory service manual have good illustrations. They show a vacuum set up. My 10/77 does not have this, but it also does not have ac. Perhaps the difference.

My 77 still has cable controls to the flappers and theromostat. Am thinking it was 78 that they went to vacuum and all the troubles. What is the production date (on door jamb) of your car?

Thanks for the response guys! I am boogered up and can't get out much so was helping over the phone. It appears the crane ignition was fed from a fuse that didn't go off with the key, and thus.........well, it doesn't go off with the key. When I know for sure, I'll pass on the info for closure.

Man that was fast! Thanks for the memory trigger Arne. He has a gm alternator so that makes sense. Newly modified harness so no real clue exactly what he has going on. First time start tonight.

Helping a buddy with his 75 280. He's taken the efi off and put on the tripple webers, etc. He says the motor won't shut off with the key. I have read where it needs a diode installed but can't remember where it would go. Anyone onboard that can give us a hand tonight? Thanks! Leonard edit: crane xr3000 fireball ignition

Hey Italian, welcome! Find the search button, and read read read. Some great info here and you can't possibly ask a question that hasn't been asked. You can spend hours and hours just learning.

Unless you have a need for it (your car has nothing at this time) sell it if you can. I took 5 to the recycle yard about 6 weeks ago. Got something like $90 for all 5 plus a couple of motors. Zero market for a 4 speed unless someone is setting along the road.

Check and clean contact end of bulb and inside of socket where bulb sets. I'd replace the bulb anyway, you're out a buck. Sounds like a corrosion issue, most likely with the ground side of things.

Can you feel any vibration through the shift lever and does it change with gear selection? Is there a clunk when going from reverse to forward and vice versa? Does it go away when the clutch is depressed? Have you done anything recently to the drive train? (Ujoints, oil change, tranny oil change {check tranny oil?}, clutch work, exhaust work, anything?) Sudden onset or been getting worse over time?

I already have a known good e12 unit and don't have the pertronix piece. It is funny as I read posts last night until my eyes ached and clear is no clear cut winner or looser, that was why I posted the question. I was hoping someone could give me overwhelming support in one direction or the other. I live in northern Idaho. It is a 50 mile drive from anywhere to anywhere and would have to order any part for either unit and most of the time a cell phone is little more than a paper weight. I converted to the gm module on my turbo car but that isn't something I want under the hood on this car. It is "clean clean clean" so I am even worried to some degree about the wiring connectors. I am not this anal, but my painter polishes the toilet seat before he sets down and he doesn't want anything "messing up" his work.

I haven't seen one with bump stops and had to buy them separately. Mine are from Energy Suspension "Hyperflex System" 7-18101 Master set 70-73 Datsun 240z. Paid $135 plus $15 shipping. Car is in the air, the bushings are in the box and I have 3 more weeks before the doc will let me get back at it so no idea at all how difficult or what the results might be.

A turbo ZX motor "can" get you there, but not in stock form (working with this project as my 3rd down the line). The old line, the only thing that replaces cubic inches is cubic dollars applies here. By and large it seems, getting 200hp out of the 280 takes a bunch of money and to my mind, the difference in 180 or so horses compared to a motor with another 20 isn't worth the several thousand dollars and thus I went with an turbo motor swap from an 83 zx. Not all that complicated ( not done yet, running, but yard sale ugly under the hood) but you did state you did not want a turbo. I've no experience with a stroker, but if you can afford it, it may be the way you have to go.

I've read a dozen various posts on the e12 and nearly as many on the pertronix. Enough that I am not sure about either anymore. Here's the deal: I bought a buffer to polish some parts and discovered it takes way more time and patience than I have. I have an E12 80 distributor (and adapter plate) and the original point type distributor which I am willing to put a pertronix unit in. I don't have enough patience to polish both units. So, if you were putting one or the other into completely fresh L28, carbed with Z therapy SU's, a 6 into 2 header and twice pipes, in front of an 83 five speed, and you wanted complete reliability and a clean installation, which way would you lean? At this time I have no idea if I have the 3 or the 4 wire tach.

Hey Zealous, ever find the problem? Curious minds want to know. Ok, at least I do...

Getting the twins finished. Have all of the parts now for the newly painted car and it is in the garage. The original car just needs the rest of the bugs exterminated from setting for 19 years. Hopefully by June 1!

I haven't had a chance to even see if the fittings work. Recovering from surgery and trying to do what I can (it is driving me nuts!) I can go buy the correct one, I just happen to have the other one for an upgrade on the turbo car at a future time. I was/am certain someone did this already and just wondered what the results were.

I have lost the master in my 72 240 but have a brand new master for a zx (15/16) bore. The ZX would have had rear disc brakes. Any ill effects if I replace the original master with the zx master? I'd think the proportioning valve would compensate the difference for the pressure for the rear disc but could be completely wrong. Anyone have any first hand info on it?

You can only use short cap allens on the smaller bolts of the water pump or use hex heads. Standard cap heads will interfere with the water pump pulley. Good to know. Found a local supplier that will let me purchase individually for around 40cents apiece. Planned on taking the old ones down and matching each one. Can get them for around 20cents but have to buy by the box, usually 25.

Jon, when I put the new struts on the front, they did come with the washers now that I recall.. I didn't use them as it seemed to tighten up. Once I tightened the gland nut on the rear, the noise went away. Seemed tight enough and the nut was completely down on both rear assemblies. No doubt they will vary some between mfgs. My "loose" one had about a turn before it was completely off. I guess the amount of threads showing matters less than if the nut is tight. I hope he (Zealous) lets us know if he solves the problem.

Arne, I just sent them (Zcar creations) an email through their website, but the last time I was on this site (perhaps a month ago) it came up as no longer functioning or some such thing. I'll let you know if I get a response. Sarah, thanks for the tip. There are a couple of local bulk bolt shops in the area and I will give them a call. I think they want to sell them by the box of 25-100 which makes it really cost prohibitive. The local hardware store wants a couple bucks a piece for valve cover bolts (socket head stainless) and there are a ton of them on the pan so major$$$$. Not sure I can justify that much expense for bling..... (my obama bucks seem to be lost in the mail) Thanks Leonard

Hey guys, I am putting my engine back together and would like to find some stainless allen bolts for the valve cover, timing cover, etc. There was talk of someone putting these sets together and I found an old link in a search, but the post was 5 years old and the link no longer valid. Tried various searches through google but didn't come up with much. Any one know where I can get such a kit for a 72 240? Thanks! Leonard

I had that (or at least similar) in my 240 and took it apart thinking I needed to replace the bump stop and or the insulator. What I found was the nut that holds the strut in the tube was loose and the strut was moving around. Tightend the nut up and it all went away. (the manual calls the nut the 'gland packing'. ) It is worth a look. I took the nut on the strut (in the insulator) off while the car was on the ground. Then took the insulator bolts off. Lifted the car until the weight was off the strut assmebly and the strut cartridge would then move feely about. It wasn't supposed to. You could tell visually by looking at that gland nut as well as you could see the threads. It should be down tight and no threads showing. Just my experience, but it was certainly my squeak and rattle.