Everything posted by IdahoKidd
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Twins_2
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
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Twins Front
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
Car on left is being redone, car on right was barn find, same color in and out. Is now a driver (and the template for the restoration) -
Batman_and_Z
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
Batman, the local quality control cat -
110_orange_new_paint_2
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
Freshly painted, coming home -
110_orange_new_paint_1
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
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100_2791
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
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100_0316
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
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100_0315
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
block painted to match car -
100_0313
From the album: Restoration 72 240 110 red/orange
Christmas day 2010 -
Garage find
From the album: Persimmons red
With a perfect dash too! - Garage find
- Garage find
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Garage find
From the album: Persimmons red
Completely unmolested - Garage find
- Garage find
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Garage find
From the album: Persimmons red
White interior -
Garage find
From the album: Persimmons red
1972 240z with auto. 43K original miles, stock wheels and hubcaps. -
Second chance
Hi and welcome aboard! Lots of info on the car forums boards. I have gotten in the habit of reading every new post and as many of the old ones that I find through searches. It can be addicting. Doing so lets you recognize the common faults and issues and how to prevent and repair. There are some great folks here with lots of knowledge and are willing to help.
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78 280z from hell.
Hey wee, welcome to the board. This post is likely in the wrong spot for a lot of help, it perhaps should be over on the car forums portion. My first advice is to go over there and read through the electrical posts and see if you can find a few answers for some of your symptoms. Same for the fuel section. I had most of the same issues with my 77 and found bad gas to be a major player, but my air mass meter (amm) was not working correctly also and it would be just plain powerless. It sounds like you are saying it doesn't have power when it has a load against it. Be sure you have all of the vacuum lines in place. It really sounds like the timing might be a bit retarded as well. I'd open the distributor cap and spray the rotor and all of the assembly, including the inside of the cap, with WD 40. See if the vacuum advance mechanism moves freely. Beyond that, unplug and replug all of the electrical connectors, including the ones at the ecu and check for corrosion, cleaning if necessary. These cars get cruddy connections, especially having sat in humid conditions. And by all means, let us know what you find so that the next guy can lean on your experience. Good luck!
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My 72 Z was involved in a hit and run
Bummer about the back injury. I've been there. It sucks! And nothing visible so no sympathy from most anybody else either. Best wishes in a healthy recovery. There are lots of cars to replace if necessary so that should be secondary. As the others have chimed in, Autotrader and related advertising media are a good source. I clip them from time to time to put in a file to have a record of replacement value (try replacing a 57 Volvo 444K). If you don't mind sharing, some of us would certainly like to know what happens with the car as far as the insurance issues go. Not trying to be nosey, just establishing a value and some sort of expectation when if it ever happens to us. I am assuming you had uninsured motorist and the "full coverage" insurance? Just liability, which is all some insurer's will allow on a car that old, won't cover you or your vehicle at all. Best of luck!
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Rear strut bearing verses bushing
I've been chasing a rattle in the rear of my 72 (auto) car coming from the strut tower area. After tearing it down last night thinking the insulator was bad (I could see chunks of rubber missing) I discovered the nut in the tube that holds the strut cartridge in place was loose allowing perhaps 3/8 inch of cartridge travel. So, fixed that. I had an insulator from a 280 parts car I had intended to use and discovered the 240 has a rubber puck whereas the 280 has a bearing. I am guessing the bearing was a later evolution and therefore a better idea? I could see no reason at all not to put the rubber puck back in, so I put the bearing in. Any reason not to have done so?
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rocker arms!
Yes, there is a company in Oregon that does it. They regrind cams as well. I'll have to come up with the name as it eludes me at the moment. A buddy just got his back this past week and was pleased. Local machine shop sends their stuff to them. Seems like a reground cam and all the rockers were less than $200.
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BD or MSA
MSA is out and 6 months to a year away. A knowledgeable source says they are all the same (except Les's) and all have door seal problems.
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Motor rebuild: list of items and cost, suggestions?
I just pulled my records for my last build in 1993. It was complete, reground crank, new cam, new pistons, etc etc. It was $2850 but did include a new clutch and pressure plate. $1500 sounds cheap. I guess mine did have the engine RR to...... (records were from previous owner) so maybe not if you are doing the labor yourself. Be sure to ask if they will warranty their work. A single loose rod bolt or any other component can mean big bucks in a hurry.
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Dallas z owners with butterscotch interior?
"Isn't Dallas, TX about 1400 miles or so from Toronto? Just sayin......." Last I knew, several parcel companies still did business across the border. If the parts are that scarce, isn't the fact that someone has them available, somewhere, worth determining the amount of effort one has to put into obtaining them? Just sayin.....