IdahoKidd

I'm keeping the l24 original, and on the stand, putting an l28 with Z therapy carbs in my 72. In my 77, an 83 zx turbo powerplant.

Not really related to the black plugs but definately to the power issue, check the engine timing. Check the cap and rotor and be certain of the plug wire firing order. Does it have any other runability issues? such as slow throttle response, a miss, etc. Does it bellow smoke, smell rich when running, idle okay, back fire. The more info the better.

Ugh!!

Easiest is to take a motor from a zx and put it in there, keeping the SU's. Probably the biggest return for the money. ZX motors are everywhere and cheap. From there it is a matter of how fast you want to go and how many dollars you you have to spend. You could put a zx turbo motor in and drive it for a thousand bucks if you can do the basic work. I did this in my 280 for less than $300. I put a stock 83 zx motor in the 240 for less than $200. Granted, both motors were used, but known good running engines. (Bought the entire car)

Just had the same experience as Zed Head. Took forever to figure out the adjuster behind the pedal was not allowing enough throw. At least I have a new master and slave anyway!

It is a complete waste of time and money. NOTHING on that car has enough value to warrant dragging it home to salvage. Usually, everyone thinks there stuff is priceless and everyone else's is junk. It is just the way it works. This car, by any standard, is junk.

I am going to take your advice Carl. I already have a 77 with a turbo set up from an 83 not quite finished (shoulder surgery). A buddy is considering the manifold and turbo to set up with 6 flat slides from street bikes. I don't have that kind of patience.

Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered that. The guy wants a $1000 for what is pictured as well as the turbo, that isn't pictured. What carbs would have been on the skyline as pictured in the complete setup? I can't tell for a fact that the mikuni's would even bolt up to the turbo manifold. I was hoping someone had some first hand info that would tell me to buy it, run from it, buy it and sell it to them, etc. They seem like hard parts to find (not so much the carbs, but the manifold and so on)

Hi guys, I found locally a fellow that has a set of webers and a blow through turbo manifold with turbo for sale. He says the manifold and turbo came off a 79 Skyline. Neither the turbo nor the webers have seen use for 10 years but of course he is convinced they are "good". I am posting a couple of pictures and am hoping some one can give me a sense of what this is worth and if it is worth fooling with. Many thanks! Leonard

the car only gets driven in the summer here in milwaukee so theres limited miles on the filter. should be fine. Absolutely untrue! Because of that very driving the fuel filter is definately suspect. The tanks in these cars get filled with crud and with the poor fuel available today, they get even worse. Letting it set for any length of time doesn't help. If changing the fuel filter out doesn't help, remove the cover in the hatch and take out the fuel gauge sending unit and look in with a flashlight. It will break your heart. I guess I am saying not to over look the obvious by assuming the fuel filter is good. I simply may not be.

I know this is a strategy that will raise a few eyebrows, but it absolutely does work. Raise the price instead of lowering it. If you value something highly, others will as well. They also feel good about beating you down on the price. Many times I haven't been able to sell something and raised the price to have someone come along and beat me down to the original asking price. I can give several instances but they aren't necessarily relevant. It took about 7 months to sell my Volvo 164 but a guy in the midwest found it on craigs list and was hell bent for it. It just takes time. Time is money however. You have to decide if it is worth the extra money to wait or to take a few bucks less and have access to the cash. Plus, it seems to be a poor market at the moment for Z cars, I can't find anyone interested in my 77 280. So, yes, I raised the price $1400 and put it right back on craigslist. Got a response that is ???? right away. If he shows up with the money, he gets a great car and I get a few bucks extra.

Check the fan clutch. If it is stuck the resistance it creates will cause the belt to over power it causing it to squeal. WD40 will help with the belt squeal. Look at the sides of the belt. If they are glazed, replace it. Once the belt gets hard spots on it, it will slip, to some degree, for the rest of its life. (fan should rotate freely by hand with the motor off)

Check the fuse at the passenger side fuse box. Check the contact points of the fuse too. Occasionally, I have to rotate the fuse so it makes contact again. Minor corrosion. I'd bet you find the answer right there however. My 77 does not have an inline fuse other than right there.

The clutch is the same for all the non turbo cars and 2+2's. (Turbo cars and 2+2's have a larger diameter). Different manufacturer's make clutches to different specifications for specific needs and applications, but a relatively stock motor doesn't require anything more than a stock type clutch. You can get them at O'rielly's, Ebay, Napa, most anywhere, for around $120 +/-. Get the entire kit, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing as a set and you will be fine. Remember to resurface the flywheel or you are likely to be wasting time and money. Do a search for "clutch" and you will find pages of information right here at this site.

You can certainly run a live wire from a power source to a switch and to the fan motor. I'd use a feed from a 'key on' source so it went out with the key switch. I'd probably try to figure out why the existing wire wasn't feeding it though first. Do you have power to the incoming side of the fuse? I haven't done anything with my 240 but lots to my 280's. Apparently there are some differences so I can't offer specific help with wire color and so on, but the feed wire has to be in a circut that comes on with the key. It would be the simplest and cleanest to trace it back as best you can (continuity test).

I'll have to go back and look at mine, but it didn't take very long at all to install. I do have a hoist, which made it easier to get under the car. I do rememberber unplugging the harness from the lights and plugging in the new harness. The other end went to the power side of the starter, the relays remain in the new harness, the old headlight wire went into the new harness to excite the relays. It may well have taken more than the 10 minutes I stated. It really didn't take very long and it really wasn't very complicated. The original wiring remains completely intact, just unhooked from the headlights. I bought another for my 57 Volvo and for a buddies 75 CJ5 it was that simple. I haven't installed either of the latter but there will be no difference in the installation procedure. The installation was just over a year ago and I am recalling from memory.....

My harness was on a 77 280z-, haven't gotten to the 240 yet so it may be very different.

As much as I appreciate Dave's advice, I took the risk and bought the Black Dragon wiring harness. It took about 10 minutes to install, plugged in with only one minor modification. It was a TREMENDOUS improvement. The wiring could have been a foot longer, the casing is bright yellow instead of a black or something less intrusive. In all fairness, I did have an old harness laying around I was able to canabalize so that I didn't cut mine. The toughest part is fishing the plug through the headlight bucket. Just my experience. I've always had to fix my own stuff so maybe I didn't think it was that big of deal. Still, I was more than pleased.

I'm with Walter and wouldn't rule out a fuel delivery problem, such as a plugged filter, or plugged pickup in the tank in addition to a failing pump. It could still be ignition and could be as simple as a loose wire at the coil. My 52 Chrysler did something to this effect with a bad condensor. My bet is that it is fuel though......

I don't. It was $13 bucks, came with the push rod and rubber hose. Plain white box as I recall. I probably have the reciept on my desk, if I could only find it.

Hey, thanks for the reply and congrats for the solution. I bought mne at O'Rielly's and it went right on. Had to adjust the pedal throw but that was largely due to the lock nut being loose.

The old tire will do just fine. It is when they get outside and exposed to the weather they develop problems. I wouldn't worry about it at all. I am not worried about my inflatable spare in my 77 for the same reason. I AM worried about the can of air next to it however...........

You're not overlooking the obvious, you did bleed the line and the cylinder after installation didn't you? When you step on the pedal, how far down does it go before you feel the clutch begin to engage? I replaced the slave on my 77 recently, and did have to adjust the linkage under the dash a little, but there was more than enough adjustment to move the pedal around almost the full length of the throw. It sounds like the car runs and you can actually tell when the clutch is engaged and disengaged? If so, I wouldn't fool with spacers or shims or different rods, although I might check to see if rod isn't cocked a bit or not seated correctly in the cup or in the throw out arm. It could be a bad slave, but I'm guessing probably not. Installation issue or a bad clutch (pressure plate). Tough to know without previous history. Do post the outcome for us though. It helps the next guy and it gives the rest of us an "oh, yeah" revelation moment.

Nothing about that car looks or resembles a 240z. It looks like a Jag crossed with an Opel GT. YUCK!

It sounds like a line blockage in the tank, somehow fuel isn't getting to the pump. Your post is a bit disjointed, but the way I read it was that when you took the pump off and hooked it up to a different battery, and presumably a different fuel source it worked. You also said it made noise "like it worked" when hooked up to your own car. If it makes noise, works on a different car, it certainly sounds like a fuel pickup problem and not an electrical problem. These cars, especially when they have sat for some time, get nasty in the gas tanks and it may need cleaned out. Pull the inspection cover over the fuel gauge sender and then pull the fuel gauge sender and look in with a flashlight. (cover is in right rear of the hatch, under the carpet, held in by two screws. Look to see if it is shiny and or if it is corroded and looks like peanut butter.