IdahoKidd

Someone has stolen the exhaust off my old john deere bailer. Now I know where it went!

I've been looking at some Z advertisements that say their car is "untouched" or "unmolested". How far can one go on the car before it is "unmolested"? For example: replacing brake master? Rotor's? A repaired or replaced fender with original part? Painted (all or part)?. I'd think common wear items replaced would be okay, but if there is bondo in the front fender and it was repainted, is it still "unmolested". Things like the glass that no longer has the oem writing on it for example. I'm just curious how much liberty one can take (and accept) as "unmolested". How much, if any, does any of this mean to anyone? I understand a 40 year old car is a 40 year old car and one buys accordingly, I am wondering how much liberty one can take with their statements. Leonard Most of my cars have been molested.........

I stumbled into a crack free oem dash for my 72. It has been in the car and in a garage all of its non-driving live (43K miles). I don't know what, if any, care it has had previously. I am terrified if I park the car in the sun one afternoon at a show and shine event, it is going to crack. What do I put on it? Armorall? Something better? Any thoughts?

You know it is a good deal when each party is walking away saying "I sure screwed him!"

Thanks for the reples guys! I don't really care if it is white or off white, just as long as the entire interior matches. I'll have a look at Bonzai Motor works this evening and see what the options are. Thanks for the link. Leonard

Carl Beck has some info at http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html It doesn't mention the 160 on anything

I have two 240's; a 10/71 and a 3/72 both 110 red/orange, both with white interiors. My question is: Is it white or off white? I don't have anything to compare them to and I am attempting to replace all of the interior in the 10/71. Black dragon lists off white, MSA has white with "off white" no longer available. I have sent an email to Les but haven't heard back. I don't want to piece together stuff from different places as I want it to all be the same color, including the seat covers. Anyone have any experience or recommend some one or some place? Thanks! Leonard

The caps on the resevoirs on my master cylinder on my 72 have turned to peanut butter. I can't seem to locate just the caps. Checked the common spots (motorsports, ebay, and anything that came up in an online search). Anyone have any leads? Thanks! Leonard Found them at MSA-now don't know how to delete the thread......:stupid:

Figure out how much of a loss you'd take on getting a different one (loss on this one plus amount of different one). Compare that amount to what it would cost to repair this one. A hatch is easy to find (I have two) Frame rails are available as are floor pans. It is a good looking car in the picture. If you are going to loose 2 grand replacing it and can repair if for 2 grand, it might be worth fixing. A replacement car may have as many issues as the one you have. Just a thought at 2:30 am Leonard

So much for the scratch and shoot paint job. The car was very well done and the pictures don't begin to do it justice. Took 7 months to get it back, likely another before the white interior and so on is ready to go.

Without knowing all of the details, for example, why where the parts traded between cars (?) it isn't possible to know what has happened. IF, for example, the car brought in had parts that were beyond practical repair, they may have been swapped for something that was repairable. An e31 head that is beyond practical salvage may get swapped for a different one in the best interest of the vehicle. Communication between the mechanic and the client is important. As a contractor, I do know that there is no way to please some customers. When you can tell this going in, there is a PITA fee associated with the project. Sometimes it is hidden, sometimes it is incorporated into labor rates, but it is there. No business with 30 years experience wakes up in the morning and says, "I am going to steal the good stuff off this car and no one will ever know". They don't stay in business for 30 years. Judging from the tone of the post, there is a lot more going on. Always ask and get all the information before assessing guilt. Then punch them in the nose if necessary

I agree, typical wear. All of the posts should look like that, and the edge of the rotor will have some pocking to it. Nothing in that picture to cause a miss.

Thanks for the links! People laugh when I tell them I have an old Volvo. Right up until they get beat between the lights with it. I am bringing home my 110 red/orange car from the paint shop this afternoon (been there since Feb) and it too has slotted mags. They only work on certain cars and I think this Z will be one of them. They should compliment the white interior and the handsome wooden shift knob

Sinister? Nope, wasn't sinister. I'm not and never was a fan of black wheels. Picture three is the best, but they are still black wheels. Keep in mind my "other" toy car is a 57 Volvo. (avitar) Something about slotted mags on a Z that seem "right".

Uhg-lee!

Hi, and welcome to the site. There is a lot of info on this subject, check by using the search function. The problem is either in the fuse by the passenger's feet or in the switch itself. Check for corrosion at the fuse and make sure everything has a good contact. The other issue is the switch, which is very common. Sometimes simply taking it apart and cleaning it well will solve the problem. There is a member here, Dave, that rebuilds these and is well respected on the board for electrical issues. One of the problems with the switch is that all of the current to the lights goes through it as there is no relay. Black Dragon sells a multi-fit unit for the 280Z that works really well for me. I know Dave builds one for the 240 that is more exacting in the fit, but he didn't have one for the 280 at the time. The problem with the switch will remain until you fix or replace it. The relay set up keeps the problem from coming back AND it will make your headlights very bright, a win win for cheap. But, do the search for "head light switch" or "hi beams" and read and expand the search until you find a thread that answers the specific question (on this and other issues).

I'm keeping the l24 original, and on the stand, putting an l28 with Z therapy carbs in my 72. In my 77, an 83 zx turbo powerplant.

Not really related to the black plugs but definately to the power issue, check the engine timing. Check the cap and rotor and be certain of the plug wire firing order. Does it have any other runability issues? such as slow throttle response, a miss, etc. Does it bellow smoke, smell rich when running, idle okay, back fire. The more info the better.

Ugh!!

Easiest is to take a motor from a zx and put it in there, keeping the SU's. Probably the biggest return for the money. ZX motors are everywhere and cheap. From there it is a matter of how fast you want to go and how many dollars you you have to spend. You could put a zx turbo motor in and drive it for a thousand bucks if you can do the basic work. I did this in my 280 for less than $300. I put a stock 83 zx motor in the 240 for less than $200. Granted, both motors were used, but known good running engines. (Bought the entire car)

Just had the same experience as Zed Head. Took forever to figure out the adjuster behind the pedal was not allowing enough throw. At least I have a new master and slave anyway!

It is a complete waste of time and money. NOTHING on that car has enough value to warrant dragging it home to salvage. Usually, everyone thinks there stuff is priceless and everyone else's is junk. It is just the way it works. This car, by any standard, is junk.

I am going to take your advice Carl. I already have a 77 with a turbo set up from an 83 not quite finished (shoulder surgery). A buddy is considering the manifold and turbo to set up with 6 flat slides from street bikes. I don't have that kind of patience.

Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered that. The guy wants a $1000 for what is pictured as well as the turbo, that isn't pictured. What carbs would have been on the skyline as pictured in the complete setup? I can't tell for a fact that the mikuni's would even bolt up to the turbo manifold. I was hoping someone had some first hand info that would tell me to buy it, run from it, buy it and sell it to them, etc. They seem like hard parts to find (not so much the carbs, but the manifold and so on)

Hi guys, I found locally a fellow that has a set of webers and a blow through turbo manifold with turbo for sale. He says the manifold and turbo came off a 79 Skyline. Neither the turbo nor the webers have seen use for 10 years but of course he is convinced they are "good". I am posting a couple of pictures and am hoping some one can give me a sense of what this is worth and if it is worth fooling with. Many thanks! Leonard