IdahoKidd

My 110 red/orange 240 had a heavy and well done undercoating under the entire fender well area on all four corners. Heavy like a 1/4 inch. Well done as it covered every nook and cranny and not a flake has peeled off. The more I think about it, the more I like this. Unless you squat down and look, you don't see it at all, and since it is black, you don't see color through the wheels as a distraction. It beats doing all the prep work required for painting. (Personal opinion....) Love that yellow Z in the pic Chris posted. Notice the orange in the wheel on the rear? Wonder if that is a disc caliper or if the drum was painted orange. I'd like to know what color that was. It might be a bit much to have a yellow 280 parked next to a red/orange 240 though........ I just might risk it though;)

I like the IROC Camero yellow from about 1995. I'll likely paint my ZT that color. As for the glass, you will have to replace the gaskets anyway. On the front, using a straight blade knife/box cutter, remove the chrome trim and simply cut around the edge of the window through the gasket and take it out. Takes one guy about 5 minutes. Same with the rear window. I can't imagine you ever being able to save the gasket as it is going to be brittle. It looks to me like we are very similar in progress. I hope you can stick to your timeline, I can't even get close to mine.

I am with anthony, when it is cold it pops right off. My car is covered with the stuff and we have it apart to paint. I am going to try putting dry ice in a cover and see if I can't get it to pop off in pieces that way. You can see in the pictures that at some point, I am certain when it was new, the stuff was put on every seam, behind every plastic panel, the entire bottom of the car, every where, including the entire bottom of the hood. The good news is that the ONLY rust was a nickle size hole in one of the shock towers.

At least in my vocabulary, a fuel cell is an "aftermarket" gas tank relocated to a different part of the car. Someone said it was safer, but I doubt that. There is a lot of engineering that goes into location, venting, routing of fuel lines, etc. Perhaps more practical in some applications, and not legal everywhere for highway use. Oregon, if you are simply just bolting it into the hatch and not doing any working over of the spare tire well, it probably is easier. But you give up the hatch and have the tank inside the cabin of the car. A poor and unacceptable trade in my book for a driver. A race car is a different story.

I'm thinking this thread lost continuity somewhere and should be two separate threads. I'd be discouraged to search for something and come into this. The conversation is great, but not much to do with nomenclature. Just my opinion...

I agree with Arne, definately the outbound round in the first picture, although, I personally like the double stack on the left. To me, it just looks more sporty and more period correct and still not just like the next guys. There is a post on the board here somewhere where someone found a dual inlet dual outlet that was stacked and fit pretty well. It is all a matter of preference, but I'd be hard pressed to go to the effort to put in dual exhaust at the expense of installing a fuel cell to do it.

I've been working on cars for over 30 years. Never heard of a combi switch or a dizzy until I started fooling with Z's. Thought it was Z specific... Seriously.

My understanding: JDM= Japanese Domestic Market

Spitz, I was looking at your signature. I have a buddy who works at subaru and I drive an old rally volvo. Volvo's were whooping up on the subaru's at the time. I gave him my bumper sticker that said "Drive slow and live. Drive a subaru and live forever"

Combi switch is the headlight/wiper switch Dizzy is the distributor

Here's the link. It is over in the Richland/Pasco/Kennewick area of central Washington, known as the Tri-Cities. http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/1635390370.html

I might be wrong, and the fellow may be on a different forum. The wheel is $25 and to some one that was looking to complete the set and not know it was out there........"why didn't you tell me man?!" And I probably should have posted to the wheels forum, realized that right after I pushed the "post" button:rolleyes:

I am certain I recall a member looking for a wheel like this. It is posted in his signature. I can't remember/find who it is. If you know, let them know about this wheel. It is on craigslist. I don't know the seller, nor anything beyond that. Just trying to help a member out. Thanks, Leonard

There is a couple of weeks worth of reading on this subject at hybridz.org Not trying to chase you away by any means, just offering up a site that has more specific information. In general however, having done a host of conversions, none related to the Z, the auto is more driveable and is an easier install from a mechanical standpoint. It is all a matter of what you consider "driveable". With an auto, put it in drive and go. That is why grandma always had an automaticLOL

Starting to recover from shoulder surgery, not enough yet to tinker. Attached is a pic of the air cleaner box and of the spare tire well. The colors are very close, but just enough off to make one wonder if it was a painting error when looking at the finished car, thus the question about making them the same.

Well since I spoke up, PM sent. I'll take it. Thanks! Leonard

Well since you had forgotten about it, send it to me and continue to forget about itLOLLOLLOL I am sure I will pick one up someday........... maybe:disappoin

Thanks for the feedback! I am very aware I am not doing something new, just very new to me. When I spoke with my painter we discussed what my expectations of the finished product would be. He said "well detailed". Later I discovered the car was going to be largely disassemled and done 'right'. I am very pleased with what I have seen but now feel like I have to take care of all the other details to do it justice. So much for the budget. Fortunately the car really is rust free, and complete, which helps. I started out with a $900 car, will have $3000 into paint, $120 into body work, a projected $1000 into the interior, and $500 into tires, keeping the slotted mags and having them polished. And the argument about what color it is has long since began. It is orange to me in general terms. My daughter swears it is red. Dave, Ive always admired your car and I am sure you have stated somewhere, but what color is yours?

There is a guy on Hybridz that goes into great detail about using a box stock n54 block and head, putting a turbo on it and driving it like crazy. I used that site as a reference for doing my 280zt but I had a complete donor car, which helped immensely. Those guys are very rude at that site if you aren't a member of there clique, and I am not. There is also as much mis information as there is correct information, so after doing some searching there, do some more. More arrogance than anything on that site, one of the big reasons I like this one. 2cents and waiting on change

Slowly working on the 110 red/orange on my 240. The painter has come back with a polished valve cover with some color matching. I like it, just curious if others think it is too much. The engine block and air cleaner will be painted to match the car as well.

I have two 1977 411 yellow 280z' but no original documentation. Both have some parts of the SAP but not all. One has everything but the wheels in the ad and was bought by an older guy 25 years ago. He has since passed. His daughters husband told me the guy didn't like the color and the stickers so painted it white. At the time I didn't know anything about the ZZZAP but I do remember now playing the video game in high school. To clear up a little confusion, when I listed the car for sale I said it was the sunburst 411 yellow (as in the ZZZAP). I was suggesting that someone purchase it to make a clone as it was already the right color. It hasn't sold and I am considering the clone myself. Having two 411's in rural Idaho tells me the color wasn't all that rare. Could be coincidence too.

I can do one in about an hour and 10 minutes round trip. I do have a rotary lift though. Longest amount of time will be taking the drivline off the rear diff. Very slow. I use a short alignment dowel through the ujoint and a boxed end wrench and rotate the driveline instead of the wrench. I'd recommend having the flywheel surfaced which is going to take more time now but not nearly as much as doing it all again later. I found it easier to leave the shift lever in place and remove the shift knob but doing so requires the car being higher off the ground.

Could be damaged shift fork (bent or worn) could also be worn gear. A knowlegdable guy at a tranny shop should recognize symptoms and offer solutions. Previous experience with 4 speed chev was bent shift fork.

First off, I am house bound after surgery so I can't look on my own. I have a late 77 280 that has the lifted rear deck panels that are bolted to the floor. The rest of the interior in the back is marginal. I may be able to buy a beautiful 76 280 that was totaled in a front end collision. (Everyone walked away). Can I change out the hatch interior, plastic and all, with a complete donor car? Were there changes in the actual structure or was it all bolt in? I know I loose my spare tire, that is what makes me wonder if the floor pan will be significantly different. I'd like to buy this 76 before it goes to the bone yard. Damage is extensive from center of hood to door hinge, door back and rest of car is VERY nice. Anyone with recent salvage value knowledge for a totaled Z? Owner is willing to work with me. Thanks, Leonard

I'm betting the thinner oil is getting past a seal and you are loosing more of it than you might think. Plus, if you changed oil types at the last tune up, the new problem may now be showing up on the plugs. Pull one just to see if there is anything out of line.