IdahoKidd

In the parts for sale a person has a Prince shift knob for sale. My 72 240 has that very same emblem in the middle of the console just ahead of the shift lever (between shift lever and radio). I never thought much of it until I see the shift knob. Is there any significance (history) to the emblem? A search here doesn't mention it. Mostly curious. Leonard

Just following up. Any new developments on the settlement?

Funny this is brought up. I just had lunch with an old datsun mechanic who was looking my Z over. He mentioned a couple of things to watch for when it runs rough. One is that the dipstick has to have a tight seal and the other is that the oil fill cap gasket can go bad and cause idle problems. He said the vacuum on these old cars was so sensitive that any loss would cause issues that seem nearly impossible to find. Just this weekend, I started my turbo motor in my 280Z and it wouldn't hardly run. I had taken the power steering pump bracket off, leaving the open fuel pump boss without a cover. Covered it up and it runs! Not particularly well just yet, but it runs.

Have you gone through all the obvious? New plugs, check air filter, check timing, etc?

You will need to be much more specific. What issues caused it to fail the smog test?

Sounds like it is working correctly. The fuel pump will come on for 5 seconds or so when you first turn the switch on and then stop. On your 78, you will see two wires on the oil pressure switch down near the oil filter. One of these interupts the fuel pump signal with loss of oil pressure (in case the motor dies in an accident or such the fuel pump doesn't keep pumping). Down on the starter motor is a light gauge wire with a spade clip on it. Unhook this off the starter. This keeps the engine from turning over but fools the pump into pumping during the crank cycle. Unhook the fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine and run a line from the filter into a container. Turn the key to the crank cycle and hold it on. Fuel should readily come out as long as the key is held in start position. It should be a considerable amount of fuel. If there isn't, then do the same before the fuel filter. If still no fuel, then you have a blockage somewhere. If you do get fuel (key back to off), hook the line back up to the engine and unhook the return line next to the filter and capture it into a container. Turn the key to crank and let it push the old gas out of that part of the system as well. Hook the lines back up and remember to hook the wire back to the starter. These cars can accumulate a lot of "crud" in the tank and you might plan on cleaning out the tank and be prepared to change out a filter or two until it gets stable again. Good luck!

A reputable local machine shop might actually save you some money. You may not need a turned crank, new pistons, new valve guides, etc. On the other hand, you may need them and not realize it, which will cost even more. Make a personal appearance a couple of times and get to know one of the guys at a machine shop. He might just take a personal interest in an old Z and take care of you. Time and again as a contractor I hear " I don't have enough money to do it right" but time and again they have enough money to do it again.

I am fooling with the wipers on my 77 this morning. Symptoms are: When turned on and right back off, it makes two swipes. Usually. When turned to slowest delay, it initially works just fine-perhaps 5 cycles; after that it often goes to a slow drag across the glass with no delay between cycles, just really slow. Doesn't always do this. Sometimes slow to park After being in on position for a while and then moved to delay, it doesn't wipe without resetting the switch. Everything works fine in on position and both speeds work fine. It is more annoying than anything. Is it likely the motor, the switch, the signal intensifier? Any thoughts? Thanks, Leonard

mlaw, absolutely laws differ. When I got rearend and it totalled my Subaru, I didn't settle with his insurance company and went to small claims court. The judge ruled he had to pay more, and his insurance company paid what was ordered. HOWEVER, because I had done much of the work on the car myself, the judge ruled I was NOT entitled to "the fruits of my labor" and he subtracted everything I had done to the car. I came away with more than I had been offered, but far short of what felt I was entitled to. I was pretty bummed.

Hey Austex, you probably found the same info on value that I found. When I had my Z appraised in late December, they went off of this site and put it in writing. Your certainly looked better than "average". Mine is only marginally better than average and the appraiser split the difference between average and excellent. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1974&m=1254&d=2212&c=7&vi=79044&z=83843&da=-1 It might be some leverage. And on the issue of leverage, my attorney friend said the way to get his resolved faster is persue the person that caused the accident instead of the insurance company. It is up to her to get it resolved and a disgruntled client carries more weight than a disgruntled 3rd party. By applying pressure to her, she will put pressure on her insurance company. He said if it were him, he'd call her every other day.

In my mind there is a connection between not having lights and the battery going dead. If I recall, and correct me Dave if I am wrong, but the amperage goes through the combi switch and on to the headlights. Those switches are famous for not working at times. I changed out one on my 77 because of no lights (they'd go out when dipped and might not return). On the fuse panel down by the passengers feet, there are fuses for each headlight and another for the interior lights. Look to see if these are blown. The headlight issue might be that simple. If not, the combi switch could be grounding out and draining the battery and giving you your voltage meter wavering. Again, be sure you have a connection from the battery ground to the engine and one from the battery to the firewall or from the firewall to the engine. It needs to be more than just a visual, loosen the fastener and retighten it. Clean it up shinny to rule out that issue. Be sure the cable is cleaned as well as the battery terminal.

How long have you had the car? Did this happen all of a sudden or were there other battery issues? Such as continual low or repeated dead battery. Did you make ANY other repairs under the hood or in the dash before this started happening? Check and recheck the battery cables and connections at both ends. Be sure you have a good ground to the engine and to the chasis. Just out of curiousity, do the lights come on when the car and switch are turned off? My initial thought is that you have a bad ground with the battery cable. Leonard

Man that sucks! There was another fellow here a month or so ago that had someone hit him and he had to settle for next to nothing on an insurance claim. I went out and had a shop do an appraisal on my 77. They went straight off the NADA classics book and put it in writing that on such and such date, the car was worth this much (in my case, $7800.00) I may never get that for it but I can take it to court and show that it was appraised by a licensed dealer and hopefully I'll have a chance. As a side bar, there is a 74 early 260 that just came up for sale here in northern Idaho. Haven't seen it but owner said it has been setting outside and not moved for 10 years, but it used to be his 'baby'.

Great info on the color wiring diagrams. Any chance someone has a link to a colored one for an 83zx turbo model. I am nearly complete with the conversion but have very different and very conflicting wiring information and no longer sure what to trust. Thanks! Leonard

Let us know if you get it running so the next guy that searches the archives might find an answer he needs.

White 77 280-find a new and loving home. Orange 72 240-finish the painting, find all new white interior, collect ooohs and awes Gray 77 280ZT-finish engine detailing, get interior, drive fast. The other 5, off to the bone yard. In theory, all of these will be done simultaniously. To bad reality is such a bummer!

Hey ajmforester, can you give a list of other suppliers you may have used? Competition is a good thing and choices are even a better thing.

Good info and thanks. I haven't yet learned all the places to buy and the stuff I did order was trivial stuff that really didn't matter all that much (ie, rubber throw out arm cover, etc) Is there a sticky (or whatever it might be called) that lists vendors and the general types of products they might sell? I know I have a couple of bookmarks such as Arizona Z Car, Motorsports, and I guess that is about it. I will be needing a complete white interior for example. Where do I start looking? Thanks! Leonard

So what is the deal with Black Dragon? I ordered a couple of things from them last night but almost rarely is there any conversation or reference here about them. Good place, not so good place, direct competitor to a prefered vendor? I am preparing 3 Z's at the same time and don't want to end up with a major heartache. Leonard

Good call Zed, the wiper motor was stuck and couldn't move. Gave the wipers a tug this afternoon out of frustration and they freed up. Problem solved.

If you do a straight up cost/benefit analysis, you'll find it is less expensive (out of pocket and timewise) to find a better shell to start with. This is a great exploration project and a priceless excercise, use the knowlegde and zest you've gained on these cars and used it on a different one. Keep in mind I am poor and very utilitarian.

It may have been. Nothing in the dash except for the headlights and the radio woke up. (which seems odd) The car had been parked since 1994. The wipers didn't work and I don't recall the switch position. I did determine the delay intensifier is on the passenger kick panel along with the rest of the relays but this noise is/was from high center of the dash. I just came in from the shop (5 AM) and either the battery is dead now or it has resolved itself as the cycling has stopped. I'll check later when it warms up to the mid 20's.

I am getting close to getting my 77zt going, down to some detail wiring. Here's the deal. When I install the fusible link (alternator and ignition circut) I get what sounds like a relay or a solenoid actuating sound from the upper middle of the dash at approximately 5 second intervals. Key on or off, doesn't matter. It will go on as long as I have the fusible link in place. I can't seem to locate it other than it seems to be above and behind the air vent. With just a test light at the fuse panel (I was then looking for something else), when the unit closes, it draws enough amperage to dim the test light, then when it releases, it brightens back up. I can't seem to figure out what it is and have been searching archives to no avail. Lots of info, non of it seems pertinent. It is an ac car if it matters. Any thoughts? Thanks, Leonard

My first experience of driving a Z was in 1980 taking my buddies 72 240 from Moscow Idaho to Joseph Oregon. One has to go through a little town called Anatone WA and then drive both sides of Rattlesnake grade. I hadn't been over that road since that day until today. Granted, I took the 500 SEC and not the 280, but man the flash backs! Rattlesnake grade drops 2000 feet in elevation, crosses the Grande Rhonde River and climbs 2000 feet back up. It is 22 miles of 25 mph seriously windy road that is a serious workout. What a riot! I had a ball. I guess the point of the post is I am certain there are other segments of road that offer a great challenge, great scenery, etc etc that others might recommend for their Z. It would be cool to somehow create a list of these by referrals from other Z members so when we travel, we could enjoy them ourselves. We all know the highway 1 on the west coast is awesome, but there are certainly more. Anybody recommend their favorite? Maybe with a scenic or historic description to go with it? Here's mine to start: From Lewiston Idaho/Clarkston WA, travel 5 or 6 miles up the Snake River to Asotin WA. Washington 129 climbs out of Asotin for 3 1/2 miles that sets the tone for the rest of the trip. 129 turns into Oregon 3 at the state line. It is a two lane rural blacktop that stays on top of the plateau for 20 miles and then drops down the Rattlesnake grade and crosses the Grand Rhonde River. From here it corkscrews back up the Oregon side following the Nez Perce Indian trail. (18 miles of exhilarating exercise) On top there is a scenic overlook of the canyon that Chief Joseph took trying to reach Canada evading the US army. At Enteriprise OR, some 5000 population, it is beautiful at the base of the Wallowa Mts, Joseph is 6 miles away and is the resting place of Chief Joseph, just a few hundred yards from Wallowa Lake. Simply a beautiful place! The distance from Lewiston to Enterprise is about 83 miles and takes about 2 hours at a reasonably brisk pace. Enterprise can be reached from LaGrande OR off of Interstate 84 as well. I have yet to take that section but am told that it too is an awesome drive. I plan to drive it this summer in the 77 280zt. FWIW

Give your uncle 20 bucks, go rent a tow dolly at uhaul for 35 and tow it back. Any further than 14 miles, I'd recommend a trailer. It's going to be a little while before you get the brakes and the fuel system working, and then I am guessing there will be other issues, lights, etc etc. Get it safely home and then go through each system completely (fuel, brakes, clutch, electric, etc) Then, hit the streets and raise hellLOL