IdahoKidd

I live in a one horse town and the horse isn't much more than a shetland pony. I am in need of a windshield on my 280z and was quoted $320 plus a gasket. The gasket was going to be $130. I know I can get a gasket cheaper-what is the going rate for a new windshield installed these days? Thanks, Leonard

NO NO NO! Go get a steering wheel puller. You can buy one for a few bucks or sometimes Schucks Kragen O'Rilleys or NAPA will loan you one. It has two sleeves that have two bolts go through it and thread into existing holes in the steering wheel hub. There is a larger threaded shaft (5/8's or so) that goes through the puller making contact with the steering shaft. Put a wrench on the end of that shaft (the puller) and turn as though you are tightening a bolt. It will literally pop right off in a few turns. There should be only one nut on the steering wheel shaft to take off before doing this. The entire process should take about 5 minutes. You will destroy the wheel and or the steering shaft trying for pry it off or beat it off by striking the end of the steering shaft.

SBlake, I am have decided to stay with the 240 engine from the same year car and keep the rebuilt l28 for the 77 project it was intended for. I am curious why you dislike the aluminum flywheel. I know I will loose some torque but should pick up rpm response. With the deeper gears, torque isn't an issue (I don't think........). Besides, the '57 International S120 with its inline six and 6:13 gears will grunt any stumps in the neighborhood. I have located a 5 speed from an 80zx (non turbo). Am I correct to assume that the flywheel (stock) is the same for the 280z and the 240z? I have spares for the 280's, non for the 240.

Looks like the one in my 77 280z only in better shape. Mine (in 2 of three cars) has turned to a crusty cottage cheese type. I am going to put my spare 240 wheel in to replace it. Leonard

I got all the legals squared away yesterday on my 72 240z find. It is factory orange and white and the only rust anywhere is on top of the fender over the right rear wheel. Body shop friend of mine laughed and said "it is nothing, easy easy fix." I put it up on the rack and see that it has two pipes from the engine to the exhaust tips with resonators in the middle. I am guessing this is the "twice pipes" I have read about here? The car apparently has an R200 with a 4:56 posi, 4 speed and an L26 with an aluminum flywheel. PO said it "comes out of the hole damn fast but tops out about 100". I would think that sounds right? He said 60 mph is about 3000 rpm. The tach in my 280 doesn't work so I don't have a reference at all. I haven't rotated or fired the engine yet. I am told it runs but I did find two rebuild kits for the su's in the back. He also told me it has a diamond cut head? or a diamond shaped head? (it has an e88 head) and part of the reason it is parked is the installer didn't shim the cam. Not sure what some of this means (I do understand the shimming the cam bit). Any ideas? Since this isn't a matching numbers car:ermm: I have several engine options. I have a known good low mile (rebuilt) 240 motor from a same year car setting on a roller cart and right next to it is a 0 mile rebuilt l28 motor (originally destined for my gray 77 280). Which motor would you recommend? It will be a daily/recreational driver. Speed cost money and I am poor so what I have is largely what I will have. While my neighbor doesn't share my enthusiasm with the new arrival (4 Z's, 2 Volvo's, and IHS 120, and '52 Windsor Deluxe in the project patch, I am pretty jazzed over this one.

You can't leave us like that! What was the problem and what was the fix?

Any of you guys having this trouble? My Z's are starting to breed at night. First I was outright given a 77 280z that wouldn't run (pos and neg cables crossed). Not knowing what the problem was initially, I purchased another 77 as a parts donor. Within a few days, I looked out and a 72 240 was nestled between them. Just a couple of weeks later, I noticed another 280 setting next to them with the hood up. And just last night, I was walking around in the shop and there was yet another, a 71 240, orange with white interior. I am almost out of cash.................. ugh! No more clunkers. I did find what I hope to be my last Z, at least for a while, yesterday. Following a sketchy lead, I came into a 1971 240, orange with white interior, slotted mags, NO rust anywhere, not even surface rust. The car sat outside for who knows how long. Tires are aired up, last licensed in 1995. Interior is typical for sun wear but seat covers saved the seats to some degree and clothing clutter saved most of the rear. It apparently has motor issues as the cap is off the distributor and three plug wires (rear three) are pulled. The air cleaner is off and in the back, but as far as I can tell, everything is there. Even the power antenna. It has a cassette player but the original radio is in the back under the old clothes. It has a production date of 10/71 and the vin is 480xx. I sent the other 72 to the graveyard but kept the motor and a bunch of the parts so I am very confident I have enough to make it roadworthy within a weekend. Cosmetically it could stand a good buffing. The interior vinyl will need replaced someday. I am pretty jazzed and am going to put my current 77 project on hold to tackle this one. Undoubtedly I will have some stupid and redundant questions to ask so I might as well get the first one out of the way. For "numbers matching" criteria, does the motor out of my 12/71 qualify in my 10/71 car? Oh, the guy worked me over on the price. I finally caved in and gave him the $800 he was asking. I HATE paying retail:ermm: I'll get a pic or two but it will be a short while. Working out of town over the weekend and perhaps a day or two beyond. Leonard

I did something to that effect with my Dodge Dart 340 Sport. I hooked up a simple contact switch to the carb so that when the four barrels opened the "Fasten Seatbelt" light lit up. Way cool when you are 18!

All three of my 77's have the floor temp indicator in the dash. Only two of them have the emblem that states it was catalytic equiped. None of the lights have ever come on. None of them have the altitude sensor that I am aware of. Don't know if they even have a bulb behind them but am betting they probably all came with the indicator as a matter of production line ease. No reason to believe any of them were actually sold in CA. Two of them almost certainly were pacific northwest cars. Haven't traced the third car back to original owner but records available show it to have been serviced with very low miles here in Idaho. Who knows I guess. I wish it wasn't there (the light) if it doesn't function, but it is and so be it........... Leonard

Great info on painting. I too am prepping my Z for paint (GMC's Gunmetal Metalic Gray) along with my 75 Volvo 164e AND my 57 International S120. (too many projects by the way). My question is: do paint fumes sink or rise? I have a fan from an old furnace I plan to use to evacuate the shop. Do I need it to exit down low or up high for best results? Thanks, Leonard

On my 77 280, I am going to go with the GMC color found on the 2009 Canyon, Dark Steel Gray Metalic. You need to see it in person, but it is a beautiful dark gray with lots of movement. De-chromed and with the MSA II air dam, side dams and rear spoiler on old Appliamce "turbine" wheels with the centers painted to match. My other 77 is going to be 94 IROC yellow as found on the IROC Camero. But, only one car at a time. There is a recession (according to the TV)

Uhaul rents trailers for $50 24 hr local use. I am sure there is one near Houston............

My 77 280z has a non working a/c. There is a sticker with some details on the hood. Was the a/c installed factory or is it a dealer item? Can it be brought back to life with the new freon replacement or is it just too much to deal with? Thanks, Leonard

Maybe I screwed up. I just sent one to the crusher that was about as good as these pictures show...................

I am going to hang on to the title and the vin plates, you know, just in case. There is one the inside of the passenger fender and one on the body in the door opening. Any others I should capture?

Thanks guys. I wondered about the fuel injected manifold on the older motor. If that would be a direct bolt, the rest should go. I knew about the performance loss but it would be better than no motor I guess.

I am parting out a 240z with a good motor. A fellow has asked if it will work in his 280z using the 280z fuel injection setup. I don't see why not but I certainly do not know for sure. Any thoughts? Leonard

Greg, The hatch was great but is now gone. The choke cables are good but the knob is busted up. I can get a pic later this evening. Leonard

The roof is in good shape, as is the head liner. The trick would be the shipping. Where on the planet are you? There is a somewhat local fellow who would like it but he's not sure it is worth the time to do all the work to both cars(replacing a sun roof). The right fender has been taken, the left fender has a wrinkle directly behind the headlight. Not from the side, but where the headlight was pushed straight back about an inch or so. There is a new metal headlight "trim, extension" not sure what it's real name is. This piece on the other side was fiberglass. Leonard

I assume this is the original faceplate and radio..........

The battery tray is near perfect. Looks to me like it is welded in and would need drilled out. Thought about saving it though. I need to look in my 280z driver and see what shape it is in. The dog legs, if it is the trim piece, is already gone. Leonard

The car was as close to stock as it could get except for the wheels. Nothing special abouit them either. I just don't want to throw away something that is known to fail, hard to get, made of unobtainium, etc.

I know there are some folks who follow the vin numbers for these cars. Car #59995, a yellow 240z with an automatic is headed to the crusher very soon. What should I keep in storage or what does anyone need from a rolling chasis? (I have three 280's). Most of what is left I would ship to you pretty much for the cost of the freight, depending on how much time I have to spend getting it out. This car is head to the crusher by Fathers' Day. Any questions or suggestions on what I should keep around can be sent to Idaho.Kidd@yahoo.com Thanks!

If I take a jump wire from a good fused power source and connect it to either the left or right headlight fuse, the light comes on when the switch is on. It tells me that there isn't power getting to the fuse block. I do have power on both sides of the fusable link, checked at the spade and not just at the end of the link (male side if that makes sense). I just got home from work and will fool with it some more.

I have lost both high and low beams on my 77 280. There is no power to the fuse block. There is power through the fuseable link. I have read every post I can find and have tried everything I can come up with. If I heat up the fuse block, the lights do come on. Every other light works as it is supposed to. Near as I can tell, I am looking for a missed or bad connection between the battery and the fuse block. Am I overlooking something? Thanks, Leonard