IdahoKidd

Previoius owners are unbelievable, are they not? I've been chasing a no spark no fuel problem with intermittant success but I may be on to something. I have had power to the fuel pump and to the injectors at the clips regardless of key position. Undoubtedly wrong. What I have discovered from the two cars setting side by side is : there are two red wires that come from a loom that crosses the front of the car to the driver fenderwell. One of those wires stays red, the other goes some 18" and then becomes two blue and one black wire and continue in the loom. Which wire goes to the positive side of the battery and which to the negative side? The previous owner had the multiple wire connected to the positive side and the single red wire connected to the negative side. Both wires are the same gauge, probably 10. The donor car has that going to the negative side adn the single red wire going to the negative side. Both cars have had new eyelets put on so neither is factory and therefore no sure way to tell. The book I have says NCA, which I take to me no color available. With the wire that becomes multiple wires connect to the ground side, the power is gone from both sides of the injectors and the fuel pump works in the crank cycle. It does not seem to work in any combination of unhooking the oil sending unit and moving the flap in the air flow meter. I have also lost spark to the from the coil but do have keyed power going to it. I do not have any power to either side of the injector clip either. There is power to the cold start valve, not power to the plug at the afm. UGH! I have been at this almost 10 hours today. I am open to whatever tests you might suggest. Whatever it is is simple. Expensive perhaps, but simple. Thanks, Leonard

So here is the latest.... The car does not run, didn't when I got it, still don't. There is power to the fuel pump all of the time. Key off, doesn't matter, power all of the time. There is power to both sides of the injector plug all of the time. Key off, doesn't matter. I found the relays on the inside of the fender in the passenger compartment, took all of them out and replaced all of them from the donor car. Didn't help a thing. There is power to one side of the cold start injector and it does function when triggered with jump wires but not during the crank cycle. With starter fluid, the engine does fire and bable briefly. Any thoughts? Leonard

I still can't find the relay(s) and they are definately not under the hood. I found a Chilton and a Haynes manual and while I recognize they aren't the best, they are what I currently have. Tony posted the link for the manual above but my computer just sets there with a blank screen so I will fool with it later. Both of these manuals seem pretty certain the relays are on the inner fender of the passenger side. Neither car, 11/76 production and 5/77 production. I have unhooked the oil sender, the cold start valve, individually, together, nothing. It appears I will be pulling the pump out this morning and try to resolve it backwards. Leonard

Okay, it is coming back to me. A bad magnetic pickup coil gives this problem, both in Chevy v8's and apparantly 280z's. I didn't have a second pickup coil ( I think it says something like ignition control in the book I found), the little black box that bolts on the side of the distributor, but I did have a complete different distributor that didn't have the box. Put it in and pretty blue sparks everywhere. However, for the life of me I can get the fuel pump to work. I can't find the fuel pump relay under the hood nor anything even looking remotely close. Any help on getting the pump to work? Where do I look, how do I jump it or bypass the relay? Thanks, Leonard

Hi guys, I am brand new to this forum and brand new to Zcars although I have years of fooling with cars, mostly old-really old Volvo's. Here is the short version of a long story. I just inherited a 77 280z in pretty good condition (good condition is always relative). The guy had fooled with it for years off and on trying to get it to run but was too stubborn to ask for help so I am not certain everything is where it is supposed to be. I bought a second 77z that is complete but the motor is seized. I bought it to have a life size reference manual and as spare parts. So, there is no spark from the coil when cranking. Power to the coil. And here is the catch. When you turn the key to the off position, it fires the coil wire just one time. You can turn the key on and off repeatedly and get the spark, just not when it cranks. I ran into this very same problem years ago on a different vehicle and for the life of me I can't remember the cause or the cure. Any help? Second question. I have figured out that the fuel pump doesn't work until the car is running. I really want to flush out the fuel from the lines before firing it up. I hasn't run for 10 years, but ran fine then. How do I fool the fuel pump into working so I can push the fuel out of the lines and replace it with fresh from the tank? Thanks in advance. Leonard