IdahoKidd

There is a definate color difference between 72 and 73 model years. One is white, the latter off white. I bought 'white' for my 72 from Motorsports and they were dead perfect to go with the white interior panels from Les at Datsun Motorsports. The first set I bought on ebay were to tan and gave them away...

It was done about 6 weeks? ago. Very recently. There is a pic posted here when I had it done. It was all blasted to bare metal. I was so happy I took my wheels from my daughters car (very badly oxidized aluminum) and had them done. I picked a color a bit too dark but they came back looking better than new ones ever did for $35 each. Here's the link to the original post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42621-Powder-coating&highlight=powder+coating

I had every single piece of the undercarriage of my car poweder coated, with the exception of the rear diff assembly, coil springs and calipers, for $300. Pretty sure I got a great deal. Wouldn't even consider painting it for that amount. VERY pleased.

I have the exact same setup but I had a donor car to do a side by side conversion. I got a lot of material from Hybrid Z. No help at all from the members as they are VERY clickish. Read and compare all that you find as there is more misinformation there than that of use. I did finally find a pretty good wiring diagram with pictures that was about 80% correct. There is a lot of "I think" and "it should" and "I haven't actually done it but..." stuff there. Sort it all out but I did determine it wasn't as complicated as it appeared to be. Leonard

Seems to me everyone is overlooking the obvious. You are trying to prepay for fuel economy. You've been watching too many Prius commercials. If gas is $4.00 a gallon: The car gets 22 mpg, that is 18 cents a mile. At 30 mpg, it is 13 cents a gallon. Driven a 1000 miles, you have saved $50. At the cost of the $1000 megasquirt system, you need to drive 20,000 miles to reach the break even point. How likely is it that you will drive your Z 20,000 miles? If your goal is to improve fuel economy, it is a fools errand. You will spend everything you are trying to save, if not more. My 280 gets 22-28. It is what it is. No complaints at all. My Benz gets 17. It is what it is. My 240 is STILL on the rack. It too is what it is........ : (

Found this with only 20 minutes left in the auction but how cool is this? http://cgi.ebay.com/Datsun-240Z-Bj-1972-Barn-Find-Diorama-1-18-/320720164641?pt=UK_ToysGames_DiecastVehicles_DiecastVehicles_JN&hash=item4aac695721

Wondered a little about that. Really concerned about the offset. Am told it will result in no rubbing issues. Don't want to waste a bunch of money......... Got the tires really cheap and I can replace those if necessary

Looking at 245/45/16 on 16X8 wheels, +10, tokico struts and springs. Anyone see a red light with this set up? Already have the tokico's and the tires, ordering wheels tomorrow ( I hope). Leonard

Remember back in the day when it was "bitchin!" ? "Sick" rates right up there with "my bad" and the stacked use of "really". Now that makes me sick!

My car went to bare metal. The painter didn't want to trust someone elses bondo (was none though). He used an over the counter product from the hardware store and then a plastic scrapper and scraped the sludge off, then washed it down with water. It went quite fast and no dust.

Not a bad plan Sarah. The timer would be a good idea too. It could wire in cleanly at starter solonoid. Where does a guy buy a timer delay like that? I would like to have one for my dome light/door light too. New cars have them, I just don't know what to look for at a bone yard. Would like to find something that is similar in size to an aftermarket headlight relay for example.

A while back I had asked if anyone had any idea how much powder coating might cost. The (nearly) local shop that does that work (35 miles away) called me in this morning to tell me they were all done with all of the parts. What you see, which is everything that would detach except for drive line, axles, and rear diff assembly, came to $319.50. I think that was a screaming deal considering they sand blasted everything as well. It looks AWESOME as far as I am concerned. Now the rugged adventure of reinstalling everything....... Damn I have a lot of money in this car..............

.....my grandpa had one just like it!

I bought the Z Therapy carbs and manifolds for use without the water and those ports have a plug in them. Perhaps for appearance? One would think it would just be an open hole and wouldn't matter much though....

The problem is solved! All along it has felt like air in the lines. Turns out, it was. Apparently I have some misinformation as well. I wasn't there when the solution was discovered, but apparently, the discs were not off a zx (he used my old zx calipers for cores) but off a Maxima. Accoriding to the guy at the private shop, when they were on the Maxima, they were on the leading edge of the the rotor and are now on the trailing edge of the Z (could be opposite but you get the picture). While the bleeder appeared to be at the top, it wasn't quite. The mechanic pulled the calipers off, still attached to the lines, put a block of some sort between the pads, and rotated the caliper and bled out "a couple of big old farts". So now, and I quote, "the pedal is firmer than a groom on his wedding night". Always loved working on some one elses mix and match conversion stuff:sick:. Thanks for the help and suggestions along the way. Leonard

Have spent weeks fooling with rear brakes on this car but still no solution. I've always considered myself a pretty good trouble shooter but am at a loss. Here is the recap: 1975 280Z. Installed zx calipers in the rear, (new reman's from Orielly's), braided steel lines to the hard lines and a reman 15/16 master from Carquest. New reman 4 piston Toyota calipers on the front with steel braided lines. The problem: On initial application, there is no pedal pressure until the pedal is nearly half way down, at which time it becomes very firm. At this point there is enough line pressure in the front lines to firmly lock the front tires (tested at highway speeds as well). There is NOTHING at the rear wheels. Pumping the pedal quickly at least 4 times firms the pedal and will lock the rear tires (at high way speeds as well). Release the pedal pressure and instantly back to front brakes only. What has been done; The system has been extensively and repeatedly bled. The front master was replaced. No change. The rear calipers have been replaced. No change. The reaction disc was checked and is in place. The pedal adjustment has been checked, adjusted, manipulated, no change. It clearly is an issue with the rear system. There is no leaking, no lines bulging (visibly), no other signs of problems. It truly feels like there is air in the line, but there isn't. Am at a total loss and very frustrated. Read up on the NP valve last night after burning up yet another 5 hours of fooling with this thing. It doesn't seem likely it could cause these problems but down to the 'what ifs'. Does any of this strike a cord with you folks who have converted the rear to disc brakes? Any other thoughts? Trying to get this car to a local show and it would be great if it would stop reliably. Thanks! Leonard

The header is a pacesetter. Bought new in the box from a private party and thought it was something else. Had a fitment problem (addressed a while back in another thread) with the thickness of the flange but figured it out. Also had to modify the compression washers to clear a couple of the tubes. Going all the way to the back with separate pipes (twice pipes) through a small glass pack and a resonator tip. Travel'n Man, definately doing a plated heat shield. Would like to do the header like you mentioned but am trying to figure out where it all stops. I have almost $14 grand in the car as it is and haven't even fired it yet. Would like to make Canby this year but it ain't looking good. BTW, what should I do to the carbs to keep them pretty? I have a clear coat on the valve cover but not so sure about the carbs. Who is doing what to theirs? Thanks! Leonard

Yes they are. I need to contact Bruce as to what I should do. They are either too short or too long. Not going to do anything yet without asking. Too much $$$ at stake to make a dumb mistake. It is actually more of an angle problem but it is a really simple fix I am sure. The pics don't do justice, the euro tube was THEE way to go.

Some pictures of before and after the arrival of my carbs. Clearly a much more sanitary set up. Spent the rest of the day getting the undercoating in place. That turned out really well but not all that worthy of a picture I wouldn't think. First two pictures are the before and after of the assembled set up. Note how clean the first picture is compared to the hose monster in the second. No smog, no water jackets, cleaned up euro balance tube with only one vacuum port. Had the motor turned flat to install the headers and carbs. Can't imagine for a minute trying to get all the nuts and washers on the studs while in the car. Last pic is the carbs as they came out of the box. Hot Damn!

Ordered up set of carbs with Bruce at Z Therapy and they came yesterday. Chose the euro balance tube and non water set up. Right out of the box they looke AWESOME!! My buddy who is running tripple webers on his 75 had the reaction of "DUDE!" so I know they met his approval. I don't get to run them for some time, engine is still out of the car and the undercarrriage is at the the powder coater's but am very tickled to say the least. I know there are endless accaledes out there, but Bruce, who I am certain has a PhD in BS, is great to work with! I'll get them mocked up along with the header this morning and then undercoating the entire car while the suspension is out. The Tokico's are in the box waiting to go in and the last "big" thing is the Rota's and tires. It has been a long while getting the car back together but the deal was I had to pay cash for it as I went. My buddies don't understand that, but somehow it makes the whole project that much sweeter. The moment I find my camera I will get a couple of pictures. Leonard

ebay today

Sent the seller a question: "Seriously" Response is: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hmmm lets see, 726 documented actual miles, a 1971 LS7 454 one of a thousand ever made, all the work was done in 1977 and the car stored for 30 years. Barrett-Jackson wanted me to put it in Scottsdale auction. It will be in Hot August Nights auction if it doesnt sell. This thing was put together by one of the sons of Earl Schieb, I have all the paperwork to prove and appriasals from classic car dealers. Yes, seriously. Outloud resonse by me is "Seriously?"

We just bought one last week at carquest (master cylinder)

Correct. The parts in the 240 are physically smaller than those of the zx.

If the calipers aren't working smoothly, it definately could affect the way the vehicle brakes. Stick with the correct parts for the car until you get the initial problem fixed. By changing out or upgrading, you may be creating secondary issues. (don't use the zx master for example-use the correct one) It will be money very well spent.