IdahoKidd

NO. 240 has 3/4 cylinder and ZX has 15/16.

Could be Sarah, I remember in high school putting a piece of meat in a petri dish and putting coke on it. About 2 days it was a disgusting mess. Nasty stuff. That's why pepsi was invented;)

Your 280z is exactly like my 77 280z. My 240z does not have that hole and has a more pronounces opening for the muffler. If you are planning to shave the rear end or smooth it out, you shouldn't encounter any problems at all. And it will look nice!

Marvel Mystery Oil is my potion of choice. Put some in the fuel to get lube in the rest of the intake. Be sure to clean out the tank before you start it or you'll create more problems than you knew you had. And if you try to tow it, be dang sure the brake system is working! My dad used to use coke from a bottle to eat away the rust in cylinders. Swore by it.

Found this cruising through the ads on CL. All I can say is... well I can't. I'm speechless. http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2323585420.html

Good looking car! Something is amiss with the clutch hydraulics. Fluid in the cabin is a bad sign, but consistant with the problem. The clutch is not being disengaged because the pedal is not pushing enough fluid to move the slave cylinder which moves the through out bearing. Fluid in the cabin has to come from the clutch master, which means it is leaking. Remove and replace the master from the firewall. You will need to bleed the air out of the system which is done via the bleeder valve on the slave at the transmission. It will require the help of someone to depress the pedal while you do it. A rebuilt master can be had for less than $20.00 Entire process of changing it out could take less than 15 minutes if you have any mechanical skills.

zx tranny's are plentiful. Best bet on a change over is to have a donar car available. Don't use the turbo tranny. Too much work. Lots of information, fact and opinion in the search section for 5 speed.

Sounds like bad connection at the battery cables, on either post. Do the lights go out when it clicks?

There are two factory flywheels, the stock regular everyday 4 and 5 speed equiped cars, and then the 2+2 and turbo flywheels. Each has a clutch diameter for that particular flywheel. The new clutch kit should come with a new bearing. Many of the kits come with the complete collar, others just with the replacement bearing. The forks are the same. There are at least two, if not three, different depths of collars and it is critical that you get the correct one. The collar is dependant on the clutch, not on the trans type or flywheel size. When assembled, there will be a small amount of movement of the collar and bearing against the pressure plate. If there isn't movement, the collar is to long. If there is a lot of movement, the collar is to short (1/2" movement for example). When you get a kit, it is the simplest to get one with the collar and bearing together. It might cost $20 more, but it is well worth it. I just bought an oe style sachs kit with lifetime warranty from Orielly's that came with the collar for under a $100. This was the smaller of the two, but seriously doubt there is much difference in the price. Good luck.

I'm jumping on the driveline bus too. Ujoint or balance issue. (Bent would be a balance issue) Could be a messed up diff, had that event once in a different car, but it revealed itself about the 4th time I let off the throttle to try to find it. Drive line came out still attached to the pinion flange. Could e a lot of things, even including a separating tire. Let us know what you find. I see you are new. Welcome!

I have to agree with Mike B and FastWoman. Both present solid arguments. With all due respect to Escanlon, I think his argument is more emotionally driven. We can wish these cars to be something more than they are but they simply aren't. They are unique, but hardly rare. For every one that is in "show" or "restored" or choose your adjective, there are 500 available that are not. It is sort of like the hot chick, yeah, everybody would like to have one, some people will spend a stupid amount of money to be around one, but the nearly hot chick is by far the more realistic to be around. I don't believe for a minute that someone comes to this site, reads this or any other review, and cancels his purchase for a Z. Nothing but buyer demand determines the value of this car or any other. There isn't a lot of demand for this car in the price range above $5000. There are simply too many to choose from. To see a price of $38,000 elicits out loud laughter and actually creates a loss of credibility. But, if the seller can get that kind of money, good for him. Someone with money to blow might, might, buy this car for that amount. (If you had $38K to spend on a car, would you buy this one?) Would two of these in the same ebay auction time frame sell for the same price? I would think that would determine the ebay value at least. Very rarely is there a spirited bidding war for a Z after $6000. As with the seller, and the members of this site, everyone is entitled to their own opion. I hope everything remains spirited but friendly and respectable. I personally view this site as an opportunity to receive help about my Z, offer help to others about their Z, and participate in a common comradery. This is my tailgate party before a weekend with my Z. Leonard

If, and I say if, that car is a 10, mine is an 8+, and I received one (1) spam request about my car for $33K less. Not in this lifetime will that car sell for $38K on ebay. And I agree with FastWoman, there is rust under the hatch rubber and ?? And it has a black interior. Who buys that color car with a black interior when a white is available? Leonard

Pointless

ok so ever since I put a new battery in my car the Cd player doesnt work, doesnt even turn on and my halogen/foglights dont work anymore either. In fact the old man I bought the car from had his battery cables backwards on the starter and hooked up black to positive and red to negative... But anyways I tested this with the new battery, put red on positive and black on negative and the starter started smoking but I took it off within a couple seconds. But ever since then the cd player doesnt work and the foglights dont either You switched the cables and smoked the electrical system. You just stated that. What do you mean I had it hooked backwards? I bought the car with it like that and it ran fine (as far as electrical goes) I didnt mess with the battery until I bought a new battery cause this one was almost dead. Didnt flip flop any wires. i noticed the battery was hooked up wrong when I was taking the old battery And why oh why would you buy a new battery because the old one was almost dead? Seems pretty clear you are in way over your head.

Could also just be a bad connection at the battery, on either the ground or positive side. Clean the posts and clamps, be sure the battery is charged, and.... be sure you have the little yellow wire with the spade on it plugged in at the starter solenoid. It is the starter excite wire and the starter will NOT turn with out it. In fact, check there first...........

You obviously had the battery hooked up backwards (the PO had it correct). Hopefully the lights and the radio were fused. If not, they're toast. Black and red have are not definitive on multiple owner cars. You need to check to see that the wire going from the positive side of the battery hooks to the starter and the wire that goes from the negative side goes to the engine block (usually at a bolt holding the transmission to the engine) but a good solid ground. You should also find the wire that grounds the body to the engine. It is important to have it in place. Color of the wires is completely irrelavent at the moment. At some point, it is recommended you change out the cables to the correct color code. The clunk could be the diff mount and or mustache bar bushings, among other things. Put the car on jack stands, put it in first gear with the engine off, and firmly rotate the rear wheel while watching for movement in any part of the suspension or mounts. You may have to hold the other wheel from turning.

Zed Head, I roared across town certain your post was the problem. Talk about a let down. It was installed correctly. EverRude, I do know for a fact that the push rod was pulled from the master with the intent to get it out (it wouldn't come). Do you have any information or can you tell me where I might find the information on the disc of which you speak? I have no idea if he has an fsm. I have only seen a chilton book at his place. I'll see if I can find anything in my cd version. It is an ebay black market sort of thing that is just poor pictures of the pages and by and large worthless. Thanks guys! Leonard

I didn't put it together, but you might just be on to something! I'll have to drive across town and have a look. I do recall thinking to myself that was an odd place for the bleeder. Going to head out right now in fact. I certainly hope you are right! and may just be. I'll let you know.

Checked that. The rear calipers are the ZX ones and visually it appears the bleeder is in the middle of the piston cup, but they are on correctly so one would have to assume it should bleed correctly. Have thought about taking them off the mounts, putting something between the piston and plate (to simulate the rotor) and bleed them out flat. Checked source, they are from NAPA, not that it matters much I suppose. They can't get another at this time. At the moment it takes more time to fool with than I have. Still trying to find the post I read about adjusting the pushrod in the booster, but I may have morphed the thoughts and it doesn't work that way at all. The pedal is just too soft until mid throw.

He bought them from Schucks/O'rielly's. No leaks on these either. Sort of narrowed it down to an internally collapsed braided steel line or a defective caliper. You know the story, a friend in need is a pain in the a!! Will spend some more time there this evening trying to sort it all out.

Helping a friend on his 75 280. Just put on toyota 4 piston calipers on the front and ZX calipers on the rear. New steel braided lines on all four corners and a new 15/16 master cylinder. All the calipers are new/reman. The pedal seems to go halfway down before any "feel" and more to the point, there is very little pressure to the left rear caliper. If we pump up a half dozen times or more, there is movement in the caliper piston and it does hold until the pedal is release. The feel in the pedal remains the same. I have been reading posts on this conversion for some time as the exact system is going to go on my 72, but I don't recall anything on this particular issue. I suspect a defective part, but am not sure. Seems I recall something about adjusting the pushrod from the booster to the master to get a full throw, but haven't figured out how to get that adjustment. Adjusting the rod under the dash doesn't seem to do it. The system has been thoroughly and repeatedly bled. I will keep reading posts but was hoping someone might catch this and have a thought/solution. Thanks! Leonard

Does this thing die every time it is started or does it sometimes go for a while first? Is it still running for five minutes then dying and is this also consistant? From your narrative, it sounds (to me) like it sometimes runs for a while and dies unexpectedly. Not to be rude, but this ain't your truck. With 2/3 the folks helping you here saying to check vairious fuel delivery issues, that's probably what I would do, just to rule out that issue. A fuel filter is much cheaper than a coil for example.

Hmmmmmmmm,,,,, thought we'd hear from you again..... Have you checked fuel pressure as Zed Head suggested? Does every thing else electrical work the moment it shuts off? Radio, lights, anything else drop off too? (looking for a electrical feed or ground issue here). Did you ever replace the fuel filter? Does you local shop know anything about Z's or are they generalizing. New systems work very differently than the old ones. When it dies, is it like the coil wire is pulled or does it wind down and fade away? Next time it dies in the driveway, pull the wire from the starter (I think it is yellow) that has the single spade on it. This is the starter excite wire. With that wire unhooked, the motor will not turn over but you should be able to hear the fuel pump working with the key in the start position (fuel pump works in the crank cycle). I'm still thinking fuel Leonard

I didn't know it was a pacesetter when I bought it (new in box on CL for $50). I came up with a solution. Don't know it is the right one but it appears to work (visually). I took some 1/4 key stock, heated and formed it into a U and welded it on. In theory, there is enough pressure all the way around the pipe that it will seal. Had a &%$#! of a time getting the nuts on the studs and had to notch the compression washers to get past the pipe as well. If the engine weren't on the stand and I could turn it flat, I don't know that I could ever have gotten it all in place. Just this weekend my car budget envelope (ala Dave Ramsey for all of you on the plan) has enough in it to get the carbs from Bruce at Z therapy. I definately will put it all together before dropping the engine in place.

I have a pacesetter header with a flange that is thinner than that of the intakes (SU's). I have seen stagered compression washers on other vehicles, but what are you folks using to make the header work with the intake? A solution would be to mill down the intake side, but that becomes a one way street in the event of reverting back. Any suggestions or what has worked for you? Thanks, Leonard