IdahoKidd

Arne, No, I haven't posted it elsewhere, not even the local craigslist. Tells you how bad I want to sell it! I am terrified that someone will buy it, and gut it, put in a small block or someother hybrid set up and that would be beyond a shame. My daughter will graduate college in another year and a half. Maybe I'll give it to her if it doesn't sell. Les, I still don't have my car assembled. Too many irons in the fire but finally convinced the docs are going to let me live. It is all a matter of assembly now. All the pieces are there. Somewhere. 24, I used a single stage Valspar (my painter did) on my car. It was the type of paint used originally and I have seen way to many clear coats fail. My Benz is an example that breaks my heart. Not all clear coats fail, but too many for my taste. Plus, it is more forgiving come touch up time.

It amazes me, I haven't gotten a single response on the car. I drove it last night to an out of town banquet. Awesome. If I didn't have both cars, I wouldn't try to sell this one. And still may not. I know I'll never find another like it. Even my 'pretty' one won't be the same as an "original one". I even have the original steel wheels and hubcaps (in well above average condition). Guess it is too much money? Les has great stuff and my experience is pretty much the same as everyone else. He isn't the greatest communicator. I'd still absolutely work with him, just be prepared to accept it won't be overnight. Or two. Or three.

Hi 24, My opinion, and I am biased. Absolutely keep the white! 110 color code and white interior; nothing finer! (I have two of these cars). I recently bought as new reproduction every single piece of the white to go into the car I am restoring-refreshing. I purchased the plastics from Les Cannady at Classic Datsun and the seat coves, vinyl, head liner from Motorsports. I am VERY pleased with both. The 72's have an "white" and the later have an "off white" which DO NOT MATCH. Even though I bought from two vendors, the colors were a perfect match. You can't tell the seat covers from the orignals. The plastics were all black and were painted, but they are that way in my original car too. I bought new because they were so brittle and had bits and pieces broken away. I'd be happy to share experiences and photos if you want to send a PM. Contrats on the car by the way, and welcome! Leonard

Endless posts say you need the zx master, 15/16's bore. I have it installed but haven't done much else on that system. I do agree with Zed Head about it being mid stroke. The rod is adjustable and the piston in the cylinder may have a different face on it forcing it to start at a later point (the original piston has a dish in it for the plunger to set it. If it doesn't have that dish, it would start much later in the throw for example.) Do let us know what you find to aid in future searches and solutions. Leonard

I use the 6 into 2 and twice pipes. It seemed the logical application

I'm confused. You opened the radiator cap and saw water? I am going to associate water with coolant for the moment and leave "anti-freeze" out of the equation. In general terms, they do the same thing, conduct heat away from the engine. There is no correlation between anti freeze or water not making the car run. Now if the "coolant" level was low enough to make the temp gauge rise, you wouldn't be seeing it in the radiator. If the radiator were so low that there wasn't water moving over the temp sensor, it would think the engine was cold and would enrichen the mix, resulting in the flood symptoms FastWoman describes. I can't recall if the engine dies on my 77 when I disconnect the temp sending unit to the computer or not. (buried in my 240 build and very different systems). As I recall however, there are two senders in that water neck area, one goes to the gauge, the other to the computer. Tapping the housing and the engine dieing makes me think a bad connection or faulty sender. Your problem is now just hiding, it hasn't gone away and you are looking to have an alternative ride home at some point. Check the factory service manual and locate and check the sensors and the wiring. Mine has a bullet type connector that was very corroded when I got the car.

Hmmmmm, I am betting you still have the problem and it will resurface shortly.

I am guessing the old original (to me) pipes are 1 3/4 then. I know they seemed pretty small. As for the back pressure, I had always been under the belief that it kept from burning up the valves. Never any first hand experience that I can think of I guess. Having had some 40+ cars, I've never lost a motor and have abused a few.

I can't find the diameter of the twice pipes. Even on the MSA site that isn't listed. I am going to get exhaust work done shortly for "Manny" (L28, 6 into 2 header) and am running dual pipes. Any reason to not use 2 1/2 pipe all the way back? My old set of twice pipes were quite small, less than 2 inch I think even. Backpressure issues? Thanks! Leonard

Why isn't the Z on the driveway????

Yes I think it is a grounding problem. Try a jump wire from the sending unit (metal housing part) to the frame and see if that doesn't make the gauge work. If so, then figure out if there is a problem with the ground wire (bad connection, broken, etc.)

I'd bet it is a bad ground. I'd bet a lot. Could also be a headlight issue on its own, but I am betting the ground wire is bad/loose.

Hello. I see this is your first post so welcome aboard! You say you have used the search, that is a great start. How long has this been a problem? From first time out after restoration or did it work for a while? Have you changed the fuel filter? Did you clean out the tank during the restoration? These cars build a lot of gunk in the tank. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge so that you can see if you loose pressure during the fail? Does it fail faster during WOT? Obviously I am thinking fuel supply, plugged line, trash in the tank, even bad fuel pressure regulator. Member Fastwoman will likely find this thread and can offer advice on searching for connections. Lots of corrosion issues with the Z's in the wiring. Give a little more of the symptoms, how they come on, how they go away (you say it recovers, does it stay recovered or fail again in 5 minutes?), some history of what you may have already done (how long was it apart, what all did you take apart, etc) When you do find the solution, be sure to post it so the next guy searching can find a possible solution to his problem.

How much? Unless you need a specific part, there is almost nothing that will switch over. Engine block, brake rotors, transmission is about it off the top of my head. Hood I suppose but it has the vents. Do you have the room to store it? Will it be an eyesore? Will the wife and neihbors complain. Parting and selling it isn't cost effective either. I've done this before and found that the only "parts" car is one that is the same as the one you already have unless you have a specific desire for a feature from the parts car (fuel injection, etc). I put a heavy emphasis on NO but it is my opinion.

Don't forget "rare" and "easy fixer"

I'd have to think there is little chance enough of the Shokatan's becoming so popular they are mundane. For one, they are over the top ugly! Workmeisters look nice, too expensive for me however. The Rota Grid V looks like it belongs on a pickup. There is a Z here in town with the original Retro 4 style wheels. YUK! Enki's look good most of the time, but never in black. Can't think of a single wheel that looks good in black. The classic 8 look, the panasports, the rewinds, these look like they belong on the Z's! And of course the slotted mags, but I don't recall seeing a set of 15's? anyone? Just my opininon with 8 years in the retail tire market (although in the early-mid 80's)

Great poster! Pretty much says it all. Was just curious

While I haven't any interest in doing the lambo door thing to my Z, I am wondering if anyone else has actually done it and with what results? The cool factor is okay, but it would seem to me it would be a colossal PITA to operate, seal, and so on.

Will the top end increase with an overdrive transmission, not noticeably. It will run lower rpms at the same speed, but essentially runs out of power to push it any faster. The zx 5 speed was made for the heavier zx 5 speed. It is also the easiest to find. You can get all the parts from the same donor car at a pic n pull or from a donor car. It is a project and will take some time and some experience, or some $$$ to have a shop do it. Net gain from an economic standpoint will be a loss. You will never be able to drive it far enough to make it pay for itself. But, if it is what you want, it doesn't matter what it costs........