IdahoKidd

Phil, comparative shopping and then based on supply and demand. Keep an eye on autotrader magazines. Also, look on ebay but under completed auctions. Tons of them are listed for sale but never sell. That doesn't count. KBB is pretty useless except for egos. I have $100 grand in antique iron according to kbb, but likely couldn't sell it for 40%. Watch the CL ads, etc. Emotional value is usually tripple of actual value. If you drove by your car on the street, what would you be willing to pay for it? There is no definitive answer other than pic a number that is reasonable and advertise it. If it doesn't sell in a reasonable time, adjust the price. I'd bet that all most all of us think our cars are worth more than we could actually sell them for.

I saw a shaved rear in person once, scared the hell out of meLOLLOLLOL

Venus, beautiful car. I didn't even notice the vents until reading the last post. For my own curiousity, what about the motor and performace upgrades. My next Z project, finishing my 77 turbo car, just took a huge cosmetic left turn:cool:

By all means get an oem style replacement dash instead of making something. Nice ones are expensive though. One solution is to get a "decent" one and put a cap on it. The caps are not concourse quality, but for a daily driver/weekend warrior they are great. It is a time consuming adventure to replace the entire dash but definately doable. Lots of wires and cables and limited space and so on. There was a memeber in Virginia that had a very nice dash for $800. I panicked when I started shopping for one because of the price. I have finally accepted they are going to be expensive. Keep an eye on the classifieds here as a decent one shows from time to time. A full cap is in the ball park of $100 and with some prep work will give you a reasonably nice end product.

After you initially get the bolt lose, hold the wrench stationary and rotate the driveline 1/8th turn or whatever it might be and then reposition the wrench. It is easier than trying to the wrench in that tight area. It is a preference thing I suppose. I think you'll catch on. I can't tell from your pics. When I use stands, I put them under the seat belt indentations on the floor. The key is a good solid location that is out of the way, won't do damage to the car, and SAFE.

By putting the car on the stands, you can rotate the driveline instead of the wrench to get the bolts out. It will become clear when you get there. Do be safe!

You have to disconnect the driveline from the rear diff. The bolts are a PITA! but it needs to be done. The driveline then slips right out of the tranny. Be prepaired to loosed oil there. If you plan to pull the tranny and engine together, save yourself some grief and drain the oil out of the tranny first. Good luck! It isn't all that difficult if you are already confident in pulling the motor and trans. Leonard

Follow up for the kyb boots and stops. I consider them to be junk. The boot is a semi ridged plastic and I doubt I'll use them. Often you get what you pay for, this time I didn't pay much and really feel I came up short. I'd put them in the "non recommended" file.

I REALLY like the bumperless look on the white Z in Venus' pictures. Am putting the little push bars like the cobra's on the front of my 444 (avitar). The volvo bumpers are the only ones I have ever found to be lighter duty than the Z's. (and more money)

BD lists them in their catalog for all s30's. I bought them from Amazon but their site says will not fit. I'll know soon enough.

Local glass shop had one over night. Local body shop beat their price and had it over night. Mine was tinted at the top, was $125.00 not installed. That was in September.

I just ordered kyb 103 with built in bump stops..... $11.50 ea

Personal favorite is "ran when parked"

The pic would be cool but the logistics might be rough. Someone is not going to be able to be there. I was thinking to rent the local water park and have a potluck one evening. Again, same issue. A key ring with "Z" on one side and the club name on the other, T shirt, there is a guy on ebay that does custom Z mugs-these things everyone can get even though they can't make the "event". Not knowing much about the club, but something for the garage/meeting place. Keggerator, pop machine, bbq grill might work too. Could buy a digital camera for pics of events, but could pass that camera around to each memeber, have them take a pic of their car , and make a collage on a wall, each member signs there photo, etc. Would make a great back drop at the meeting hall. (Just over the keggerator:beer:)

Check and double check the ground connection at the battery. I would (and am) betting it is a bad connection at the battery.

I just bought the Tokico Illumina package (ILK 252) and it is still in transit. Should I have gotten something else? From all I could find to read, it was the most straight forward setup and one of the most highly regarded, but I don't see any mention of it in this thread. Now I am second guessing? And since I am already here, what about strut boots? I assume they should be installed. I have KYB 103's coming (with bump stops)

If your club had let's say $800 to spend on all the members what would be a great idea to cover such a diverse group?? Maybe it is just me, but I have absolutely no idea what you are trying to ask. Are you trying to put on an event that would include all the members? If so, how many members? are you talking spouses and family? Others are making it sound like you are trying to make it a fund raiser or to generate income for the club. Some back ground and intent would go a long way in determining response. This is one of those "My car won't start, how come?" questions

Good call on passing. One of the guys in our group has a very early and a very late 260. Getting the right parts are a matter of getting across to the parts guy what you have. I could be wrong, but don't think they made a 75 260 though (in the states). Think they were the fist fuel injected 280's. Been a long time since I fooled with CA emissions, but I 'think' that 75 and older is exempt. Absolutely double check with CARB or online, but check from a reliable source. FWIW, I bought 1 owner 240 with 43K miles in pretty damn good condition for $1000. Put another $600 into it, hoses, belts, brakes, general stuff, and have a great car. You can literally put a dollar value on patience. And a little luck never hurts!

The flywheel probably won't just fall off, in fact, you might even have to give it a gentle tap. It is always best to loosen one of the bolts, then put it back just finger tight snug while taking the others out just in case.

Judging from the surface rust visible, there is likely substantial rust under the car. The paint is terrible.

Drive through paint job. Wonder if a magnet will stick to it?

hmmm, can't see the pics. What kind of price tag? Sounds like lots of work has been done. One of two things. It will be a great unit because someone has already done the work. OR. It will be a nightmare because whoever did the work didn't know what they were doing. you need to go to the footer that says "go advanced" , then manage attacments, then browse and find the files, then upload to get the pics to show

If it has rust like pictures one and two, don't buy it! The doglegs are under the door and in front of the rear tire. They can be replaced, as I did this one, but can be an indication of more rust. Hatch rust usually occurs on the top of the tail light area. My car has the hatch off, but check that flat surface area. I don't have a pic, but look under the battery and tray. These often get rusted quickly. The other likely spots are under the floor mats and in the frame rails under the floor. Once you find a car you are seriously considering, get under it somehow and have a look. Not all rust is fatal and should make you pass on a purchase, but you really need to be aware it is there. What model do you have your eye on? 240? 280? ZX?

Decide too if you are wanting carburetted or fuel injected, or if it matters to you. By starting with the best unit you can afford, you may save yourself a ton down the road. Buy according to your ability to maintain the car. If you are a weekend mechanic and enjoy the work or if you want turn key and no hassle, the price does vary. Rust is 'the' issue, but there are a lot of cars out there that are rust free to choose from. Search the forums here for specific areas, but floors, battery trays, and hatches are common problems. If you find rust in one area, almost certainly there is more elsewhere. Good luck!

The yellow starter excite wire is so small, perhaps 18 gauge? that it couldn't put much of a load on the switch any way. I was certain it was a gimmick, I simply couldn't figure out the need for one that style.