IdahoKidd

More power! I've got to have more power!

Follow up: Spoke with Les Cannaby this evening. It is an r180 with a nismo lsd. Now to decide what ratio I need to change it out to. It is almost unanimous that 4:62 is too deep for much of anything streetable. So, 3.7's or 3.9's? Going to search for a gear calculator and see what comes up. Everybody has a favorite. Car is going to be an occasional weekend driver, mostly around town, some rural hilly two lane mountain roads. Probably running a 225/50/16 or so. Any thoughts?

The neg side came exposed and the pos side came under the wing. After my battery shifted (didn't have the correct hold down apparatus) and the pos post made contact with the inspection lid and burned a hole through it (took about a second and a half) I bought the same size battery with the posts on the opposite side (group 24F I think). It makes for disconnecting for service and for jump starting SO much easier, and with custom cables, if you didn't know the difference, you wouldn't know the difference. I bought bulk lenght 4 gauge wire and soldered the ends on. When all was said and done, I probably have $12 bucks(?) into each cable. I know that on my 6 volt stuff, the old Chrysler and the IH pickup, the heavy cables are a MUST.

I did see a reference in the text about Jmortensen's but didn't realize it was his. It definately is a limited slip of some sort, both wheels do move the same direction. I have been away from rear end stuff since the mid 80's when as a kid we were modifying chevy stuff to get the biggest tire made under our trucks. At that time, the carriers were often rated by the ring gear they could support. A 3 series carrier wouldn't accept a 4xx gear ratio and a 4 series carrier wouldn't accept a 3xx ratio, etc. I don't have a lot of disposable cash for this project and don't want to buy a 3.7 ring and pinion (for example) to find out that it won't fit this carrier. There is so much info on the net (if it is on the net, it must be true, right?) that part of it overlaps and contradicts the rest of it. I know from the brief description and the haphazard pictures it is difficult to determine much, but I was hoping someone recognized the thing, where it might have came from, and so on. I've never met nor corresponded with jon, but have read enough of his posts to determine he knows what he is talking about (can't say that about a lot of folks.....)

Thanks Jon. Now I am curious if it would have been oem in something from Nissan or would have been purchased over the counter. (if oem in something, I can look for another for the other car:cool:) I found this site and thread http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/65994-diff-identification-help.html and specifically post #5. The picture there looks like my picture, but if I read it right, that one is a 200, thus part of my confusion. So, I guess I will keep it, give it a shot for this car, which essentially is an in town "pretty" car. If the gears are too deep, how difficult is it to find a different ring and pinion? I am guessing that unit isn't built much anymore and parts are going to be difficult? first pic taken from driftworks site, second is mine

Yes I have 4 z's that are drivers, and a parts car. 2 280's and 2 240's. I have one of the 240's on the rack and all of the suspension out so can't move it. It appeared, in just a casual observation, that the other 240 had the same appearance (differentially speaking). The whole 240 thing is a pain. Both are 72's, both are 110 orange with white interiors. One is an auto, one is a stick, but it makes it tough to determine which car is which in conversation. So, named one Otto, and the other Manny. What's a guy to do? :classic: The 240 that this unit came in I bought a couple of years back. It had a 260 motor in it and a 4 speed. The PO said it had a posi with 4:56 gears in it and "was set up" for the 1/4 mile. Beyond that I have no information at all. I honestly didn't think it had a posi and certianly didn't think it would have gears that deep. I'll try to get a pic of the Otto car's rearend;) tomorrow for a reference. I was certain some of you guru's would know exactly what it was and could tell me to keep it, sell it, or chuck it. I have never driven the car so can't tell you much about how it works. Everything inside is clean, intact, and functioning as near as I can tell.

It's probably an old Nissan LSD, if the cross pins look like this then that is a pretty sure bet: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/90952way1.jpg If it has 4 of these square shaped cross pins, it is a 4 pinion, 2 would be a 2 pinion, I think some R160's had a 3 pinion setup. __________________ I had to go look. Only one cross pin that goes all the way through. I can see 4 spider gears. Bottom of the case has "4 X U" stamped on it.

I've got a pic of the diff cover now. If I can identify what the carrier is, the next step would be to find out what other gears I can go to. I'd really like to keep the posi as it was a "bonus" with the car. I don't have a traction problem with any of the other three Z's, but bragging rights and the cool factor and all:cool:

Rotating the tires and counting drive line rotations, it came up at 4 1/2:1. No one around here had ever heard of such a thing in an r180. To end a bunch of local arguments, I pulled the cover off . The numbers on the ring gear are 37 X 8, which works out at a 4.50. Can anyone tell me from the picture what I actually do have, such as a brand name, or a type or how I can find out? (It is a 180 isn't it?) 4.5 seems pretty deep for a driver, but it will have an 83 5 speed in front of it (this is all in my 72 240 with an L28). I am open to opinions on what I should or shouldn't do

Sounds like a plan. Going to be a busy day!

The pictures are the current state of my 72 110 project. The existing undercoating is pictured. What a PITA to get it out of the engine bay to paint, but not a lick of rust anywhere. I think I am just going to powerwash it (nothing is loose at all) and give it a fresh coat. The suspension components are going to be painted with POR 15 I think. Was going to powder coat and all, but think this will do the trick.

Congrats on the new car! Drive it for at least 6 months before tearing into it for an engine swap. If this is your first car, a motor swap of that magnitude is a BIG deal. Do a ton of home work and be sure you have 10 grand in cash and a year of downtime ready to complete the project or you will simply just destroy the car and have nothing in the end. Right now, the sunroof is the least of your concerns, although you could begin collecting parts. (your project will take a lot of parts). You don't mention how much mechanical or body skills you might have, but if you have to have someone else do the bulk of the wor kand don't have nearly unlimited resources, you will be posting an unfinished project in the want ads. Don't mean to discourage you, just telling it like it really is. The guys and gals on this site are a great resource and more traditional (some even purists) You might find more support (and information) for your project at hybridz.com. Best of luck! Post a completed picture asap! As for the roof skin, you shouldn't have much trouble finding a donor. Heck, I have two here in Idaho but freight would eat you alive.

Have been watching a Z in CA on ebay that has a vin of exactly 10 less than mine. Sort of like one of your kids..........

At first I thought it was a joke, but now I have heard of several folks towing with there Z and someone says there is a movie from the early 70's that has a towing Z in the background. I don't think I'd consider it myself, at least not configured to the bumper and the valence panel.

Thanks for the tip, had never heard of him. Only been to that site a couple of times

Hey guys, doing a straw poll I guess. I am looking to replace the headlights in my 240z and am considering the Hella's. Anyone have something they really like or are comfortable with. (DOT isn't a concern). I like the fact I can change out the bulb without taking out the entire lense assembly. I see some inexpensive (cheap) projection lenses on ebay but am not convinced and moreso, they look really ugly. Looking to keep it reasonable (Hella's with bulbs are $60ish each) I know that I need to get Dave's harness to keep from frying the switch and fuse panel.

Bone yards, craigslist, hybridZ

Found this lurking on CL in Seattle area. Not much info, but wonder what the towing capacity of my 240 is?? http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/2176562247.html

Go to "search".

jiman, sounds like it could be a shift solenoid problem. Check the vacuum lines and find a way to test the solenoid.

no. Walk away and get something better to work with. It will save you a ton of money and effort in a very short while. $20k from now you will have a $6k car. Went back and looked at the pictures again. NO

My opinion: I have two identical 240's, one an auto, one a manual. More people seem to prefer the manual over the auto, most have never driven the auto. For in-town driving, the auto is awesome. I don't think there is much of a performance loss. The auto barks the tires on the shift. I wouldn't consider the effort for the swap with a 4 speed. If I were going to the trouble, I'd go with a five speed while you have it out. Is your auto giving you grief? Is his 4 speed solid? You'll likely need a new clutch while your at it. It is a relatively major event timewise. Do you have the time and the ability to do so? Personally, I don't think the net gain is worth the trouble if your tranny is sound, and definately not for a 4 speed. Everyone has an opinion. Other than the cool factor, I don't think you gain a thing.

The overthinking that takes place in these threads can be quite entertaining........... Roger that! At my house, when one starts talking about changing rear end ratios and then brings up the pinion gear, it is assumed that it is in the differential. I didn't want the poor fellow to think he had to change the pinion in the diff to get his speedo to work out correctly. One never knows what background the poster might have or what mechanical aptitude may be there. On the other hand, if it is on the internet, it must be true!

How does on tell someone their girlfriends rear end is worn out?

There is beginning to be some misinformation. Go to http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ I cut and pasted this section from there but it left the pictures out. Read all about the transmissions and the speedo gear section. Chris is using the wrong word for the speedo drive gear. The pinion gear is in the rear diff and is a major event and you do not want to fool with it at all at this time. __________________________________________________________________________ Nissan called the '77-80 trans a "wide ratio" while the '81-83 was called a "close ratio" 5-speed. The early one has the lowest 1st/2nd gears for acceleration, but a wide spread between 2nd and 3rd. The later one has a taller 1st/2nd but a tighter spread between 2nd and 3rd. It also has a much taller 5th for cruising. Your choice. According to a Z Doc friend who rebuilds transmissions the early 5-speed is a 4-speed with 5th and reverse sharing the same fork. He said it's common for people to "blow" 5th gear as the fork is weaker. He stated the later 5-speed is a genuine 5-speed which is stouter. I call the early one a 280a and the later a 280b to keep them straight. Keeping the speedometer correct Everyone gets confused about how to calibrate the speedometer after swapping differentials, it's actually very easy. The speedometer is metered by a plastic, toothed cog on the end of the speedometer cable that screws into the transmission. This cog is paired with the differential, not the trans. So it doesn't matter which trans you have, all you do is select the proper cog for the rear-end ratio you have in the car. While they are colored for easy identification, the Nissan dealer only has them in their parts list as "17, 18, 19, 20, or 21" tooth cogs. YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36 BLACK is the 17 tooth for the 3.54 BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70 WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90 RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11 PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38 Don't rely on a junkyard Zcar to have the right colored cog ~When in doubt, count the number of teeth~ NOTE: There are 2 different aluminum cog "sleeves", a '75-80, and '81-83 with different cog "offsets". If you look closely in the picture above notice how the red cog is offset slightly to the right, and the blue to the left. This means you must keep the sleeve with the transmission it came in, and only swap the cog. Otherwise the cog may not mesh the proper way inside the trans. On 240's, you will have to cut about 2 inches of metal from the front/right edge where the shifter goes through the trans tunnel when using a 5-speed. Otherwise the throw into 5th gear will hit. This cutting is the price of a 5-speed trans and is not a big deal at all, the console covers it.