IdahoKidd

I have always believed the classic Z to be the original, the 240-280 series. After the original, such as the zx and later, not really classics. The 67 camero is a classic. The 1980 is not. The Pinto is a classic, as is the AMC Pacer. All of them original unto themselves. There has to be something to distinguish it and be readily recognizable. The round fender Chevy PU's from 67-72. Perhaps something that designates an "era", defines a period. One day the Prius will be an icon (a fools folly period-a K car might fall into that category). I tend to believe that a "classic" is a pretty universal acceptance, that is, most everyone is on board calling it a classic. Diminishing availability and a 'cult' following probably helps define a classic. So, in the Z car world, (in answer to your question), the 240, 260, and 280 meet all that criteria. These are also the primary subject at this site, which is "The Classic Zcar Club"

"Thousands invested, will take hundreds." Happens every day. Not in a life time is that car "worth" a hundred grand, but undoubtedly the amount invested approaches that. In real estate terms, it is radically "over built". I'd have to say that most of us are upside down in our cars, it is a matter of how much.

I am sure there is some logic there but it absolutely defies me......

If A = B; and B = C; doesn't A = C? I too have them on my 280 and have had them on my 240. 205/60's work well. As posted, 225/60's are much to much for the wheel. I have the swastika wheels as well and would also assume A=B...........

That car is as hideous looking as the pigeon toed model standing by it. YUK to both. My opinion and I stand by it.

Bruce, Probably won't part with the Volvo. I'm tickled someone else out there even knows what a duet is! I'll attach a couple of pics of the 3 car Volvo club we have. The Z car club here in town has 3 members but at least there are 6 cars. Notice the plate on my 57, it is the only plate in the US that has that. When I got it, I didn't have a clue that Viagra was a little blue pill, I just knew driving this car always gave me a woody. As for my carbs; the ones on the car in question have a large star wheel assembly and a spring between it and the bottom of the carb (my other sets have a knurled knob and no visible spring). This was seized as well and I ended up finally getting it to back out when I cleaned them. The nozzle was so stuck in the carb that I actually pulled if out of the base it was pressed into. I guess I didn't fully understand how it worked when it was back together but am guessing it sets the richness in the run position. (I really need to go get my manual back......). I'll fool with it a little more today. I assume just adjust it to its best running position until I get my manuals? The temp is up to 30 today so it is much nicer to work on things than it has been.

Follow up: It turns out both nozels were stuck so firmly I had no idea they were to be a moving part. 2nd set of carbs were exactly the same, but third set had one side that moved freely and that "turned the lights on". Cleaned them up, cleaned the float bowls and the pistons, put it all back together and cranked and cranked and cranked. Turns out the hot wire to the coil had gotten knocked off when removing the air cleaner. Ugh! So now it did start but has that lean pop on acceleration. I have seafoam in the tank and in the carbs so will let it all cycle through before I get real excited. I also don't think I have the correct amount of oil in the carbs, it certainly didn't take much. The choke works like it should ( I think) and definately different than it did. Thanks Bruce and Kenny! Bruce, I'll be in contact shortly about a couple sets of SU's and a video.

I'm headed out to the garage a little later. I have read several posts about the nozzles moving but nothing about how to tell. Is it a visual thing while on the car, can I tell with a finger inserted? I do remember somewhere on a shelf (aka absolutely no idea where) I have another set of carbs. If I can find them I might have a better look. As a foot note, never loan your manuals to a buddy............ "dude, I don't know where I put them........."

I've read posts until my eyes are burning searching for some sort of answer. 1972 240 3 screw SU's. Car hadn't been driven since 1992 (43K original miles). Cleaned the tank, new filter, flushed the lines, etc. When it is cold (not started) it will crank for an eternity and never fire. Nothing. Spray a little starting fluid into both carbs on the crank cycle it fires and does the lean pop thing. Do this several times and it will pick up slowly and then run along if you hold it above idle. Once it warms up, it runs very well, idles well, drives well and restarts well. But, once it goes cold again, no way to start it without starting fluid and coaxing it along. Once it is started, pulling the choke lever back raises the idle speed and it runs rich. Take the choke off, it works just fine. So, I am guessing the choke is working. (The levers move on the outside of the carb). I know the carbs need a thorough cleaning and when my Obama bucks get here I will have Z therapy work them over. On the other hand, once it is warm there are no starting or diveability issues at all so they can't be all that bad. I am over looking something really simple with the fuel delivery somehow. Any suggestions? Thanks, Leonard

I am just curious. Has anyone ever experienced and engine failure do to the oil filter? Ever? I've been around thousands of engines. Never ever seen or heard of an engine that failed from an oil filter filtration problem or an outright oil filter failure.

I'm preparing to have twice pipes installed in my 72 "refreshed" car. I'm using an L28 with SU's into a 6 into 2 header with the intent of running dual pipes to the rear. Do I need to have a cross over tube behind the collector to equalize the exhaust pressure. The old set did not have this but came of the stock manifold. The local "know-it-alls" are pretty evenly split on whether it should be done or not. Any of you guys running them using a cross over tube? I know years ago when I was a gopher at the muffler shop, we did it on the V8's when we did dual exhaust systems. Don't ever recall splitting a 6 cylinder unit. As a side bar, the original (at least the pipes that came on the car) were 1 1/4, I am planning to use 1 1/2. Any thoughts there? It is only dumping 3 cylinders...

Looks like a great find. The hood scoops are unusual. The 75 is unusual to itself because of the ecu. As I recall, the afm's are generally pretty universal. $120 seems steep for a used part. $40 seems more inline. Read read and read some more from the archives here. Do a search on a subject and start following the threads. Everything is there IF you can find it. I really do wish there was a more effecient way to search this site........ I have my home page here and everyday I read all of the new posts. It is a great way to find "problem areas" with the cars. Many of the parts are available at NAPA and Orielly's. Black Dragon, Motorsports, Zcar source are a few places to buy new stuff. Shop around! The same bag of rivets on ebay for $18 are available at Motorsports for $7. On the other hand, some of what they have is doubled up over someone else. Get the factory service manual (FSM). I bought one on ebay in disk form. It is okay, it was just pictures of the pages and no search option. I can't get the link to open that folks post here for it but apparently I am the only one as no one else has complained. But no matter, get one. This is a great resource (this site). These folks are great and the knowledge is incredible. Having been a gung ho "newbie" a few years ago, I learned rather abruptly that you get more and better help if you spend an extra five minutes being sure of the question that you have, being sure you have spent a few minutes researching the solution (ie, search and fsm) and then as clearly as possible framing the question to get the correct answer. That said, ask questions about those things that come up. These Z's are like fickle women, but bring them chocolate and flowers on occasion and they will give you the ride of a lifetime!

As a driver, either will do. In my opinion, and I have both, the 280 is more reliable as far as turn key start and drive. 90% of the viewing public can't tell the difference from the sidewalk in appearance. As far as value goes, it seems to me that a 240 and a 280 in identical shape, neither being a show car, are worth about the same money. Get either in good condition and you'll be fine. And, by the way, it is incredibly easy to dump way more money into either than you can ever hope to recover, so buy it to suit youself.

I am with you FastWoman, I am not all that photogenic either. I do think it would be cool to have members post their mug shots somewhere so we can put a face with the avitar. Some of the folks here have become regular "coffee shop acquantances" but I wouldn't know a single one of them if I sat down next to them.

Good looking car! You should go stand by it for a picture so we have a face to put with he project.

Anybody else find a handful of dead links with some of these? I can't remember which, I picked 3 at random and they weren't good links. Agreed, great concept tho. Much like my "favorites" list in my Z folder.

I have several used ones if you need to go that route. All will need surfaced. Freight could be an issue as they are heavy. They are all the same for the non turbo and non 2+2, so even one from a zx will work fine. Probably $20(?) at a wrecking yard. Unless you have chattering or noise or some other issue, yours is probably good as it is, just needs resurfacing. I am with Arne, take a spare in and get it surfaced and ready so the clutch job is a same day event. It may take a machine shop a day or two to get yours in line.

Man it sucks to be poor!

I think he meant by 'boarded out' was that he sent it to a machine shop where they kept it and fed it for an extended time LOLLOLLOL

Found this on craigslist in Boise Idaho. I've no affiliation to the car (or Boise). Kind of cool and a lot of work! http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/2027049311.html

Dave, A picture is worth a thousand words! This I can figure out:D Many thanks! Leonard

Hey thanks!

Can anyone tell me for certain if the strut insulator and bearing from a 77 280 will fit on a 72 240. I have a damaged one on the 240 and a 280 parts car out back in the mud. Thanks!

I don't have the inner ring, but even at that, I can't find a place to attach it if it were thre. I was wondering if there was a spring loaded "bar" that worked like a t bar or something. My other widemouth car has nothing at all so can't compare it. My FSM is on loan to a buddy but not sure it would show it anyway.

My 72 240 large mouth gas cap has a chain hooked to the inside of the cap. Where on earth does the other end hook too? Can't seem to come to a logical conclusion. Thanks! Leonard