IdahoKidd

I wonder if the cladding was a regional thing perhaps? I am in the Pacific Northwest. Any other areas (your neighborhood) where it was common/popular?

All of my 280z's have that cladding along the bottom. Don't know that I have ever seen one that didn't have it. Never seen it on the 260 or 240 though... That is a very nice car, but he is a bit misimformed about the changes in the body style. It is just a 280z

It's a fuel issue. Not enough pressure or not enough volume. It will try to start after it sets because the fuel pickup can get enough to get it going and then the line/filter/tank plugs up and no more. Take a spray bottle (windex, cleaner, anything) fill it with gas, pull the hose off the afm and spray it in while cranking. I'll bet it will run along as you keep spraying the fuel. If I am right, (IF), then there is a problem with the fuel delivery system (weak pump, plugged pickup, junk in the tank, plugged filter). Out of curiousity, how did you KNOW the injecters were bad? Let us know what you finally determine.

It definately sounds like a ground issue, at least in part. Experience tells me that dim lights are from poor grounds and another circut is grounding through the headlights. Check all the connectors and be sure the ground wires at the eyes where they attach to sheet metal are getting solid connections.

Hard to say by the picture. Hate the stripes! Look for rust in all the usual places. I bought nicer for much much less. It is all about the market, who has it and who wants it.

If you start the project and go to med school, you'll never finish it. If you go to med school, you'll never start the project. Finish one, then the other. If you plan to have an altered Z, after med school pays off, go buy one.

I'm in north Idaho and bought several zx 5 speeds. The most I've paid is $100. Taken from this post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1957 "[I]The stock transmission gears are as follows: 240Z 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 4 speed type A 3.549 2.197 1.420 1.00 4 speed type B 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.00 280Z 5 speed 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.00 .864 280ZX 5 speed 1980 3.062 1.858 1.308 1.00 .773 1981-on 3.062 1.858 1.308 1.00 .745 As I recall, the zx speed has a slightly stronger 5th gear. I truly doubt anyone will notice the difference in a .745 ratio versus an .864 Put in the zx unit, they are plentiful, cheap, and reliable.

Sending units are a dime a dozen used. I bet I have at least 4 from various parts cars. First things first, pull the sending unit out of the tank (while still in the car) and have a look into the tank. You can see quite a bit with a flashlight looking in through the hole and even more with a remote camera. Look at the bottom of the tank and see how much crud might be in there. It there is a bunch, you'll have to drop the tank. If there isn't, try taking out the fuel pump and using air pressure, blow the line backwards into the tank (put the sending unit back in place to avoid a mess!) How do you "know" the tank pickup is blocked and that it isn't a fuel pump not sucking? If the tank is indeed bad, there are several things to do, the cheapest is to scour up a used tank. Determine for certain what you are up against and collectively we can find a direction/solution.

I seriously doubt the engine is truly broken in at 1500 miles. I too believe synthetic oil should wait until the 5000 mile mark, but mostly, I believe the valve guide seals are giving the grief. The have dried out and now the synthetic oil is so slippery it goes right past the seal. My 77 smokes on start up if parked for any length of time, but only does it with synthetic oil in it. Changed back to 10/30 Valvoline and it went away. (did this on the advice of my machinist). Typically, start up smoke comes from oil seeping down the valve stem and pooling in the cylinder and burns up. Smoke from ring issues usually comes when letting off the throttle after hard acceleration or after coming down a long hill using the engine for braking (letting off the throttle). When getting back on the throttle if it really blows the blue smoke, it typically is ring related. As a side bar, synthetic oil pours out the seals of my 57 international but conventional oil stays put. My experiences

Someone has stolen the exhaust off my old john deere bailer. Now I know where it went!

I've been looking at some Z advertisements that say their car is "untouched" or "unmolested". How far can one go on the car before it is "unmolested"? For example: replacing brake master? Rotor's? A repaired or replaced fender with original part? Painted (all or part)?. I'd think common wear items replaced would be okay, but if there is bondo in the front fender and it was repainted, is it still "unmolested". Things like the glass that no longer has the oem writing on it for example. I'm just curious how much liberty one can take (and accept) as "unmolested". How much, if any, does any of this mean to anyone? I understand a 40 year old car is a 40 year old car and one buys accordingly, I am wondering how much liberty one can take with their statements. Leonard Most of my cars have been molested.........

I stumbled into a crack free oem dash for my 72. It has been in the car and in a garage all of its non-driving live (43K miles). I don't know what, if any, care it has had previously. I am terrified if I park the car in the sun one afternoon at a show and shine event, it is going to crack. What do I put on it? Armorall? Something better? Any thoughts?

You know it is a good deal when each party is walking away saying "I sure screwed him!"

Thanks for the reples guys! I don't really care if it is white or off white, just as long as the entire interior matches. I'll have a look at Bonzai Motor works this evening and see what the options are. Thanks for the link. Leonard

Carl Beck has some info at http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html It doesn't mention the 160 on anything

I have two 240's; a 10/71 and a 3/72 both 110 red/orange, both with white interiors. My question is: Is it white or off white? I don't have anything to compare them to and I am attempting to replace all of the interior in the 10/71. Black dragon lists off white, MSA has white with "off white" no longer available. I have sent an email to Les but haven't heard back. I don't want to piece together stuff from different places as I want it to all be the same color, including the seat covers. Anyone have any experience or recommend some one or some place? Thanks! Leonard

The caps on the resevoirs on my master cylinder on my 72 have turned to peanut butter. I can't seem to locate just the caps. Checked the common spots (motorsports, ebay, and anything that came up in an online search). Anyone have any leads? Thanks! Leonard Found them at MSA-now don't know how to delete the thread......:stupid:

Figure out how much of a loss you'd take on getting a different one (loss on this one plus amount of different one). Compare that amount to what it would cost to repair this one. A hatch is easy to find (I have two) Frame rails are available as are floor pans. It is a good looking car in the picture. If you are going to loose 2 grand replacing it and can repair if for 2 grand, it might be worth fixing. A replacement car may have as many issues as the one you have. Just a thought at 2:30 am Leonard

So much for the scratch and shoot paint job. The car was very well done and the pictures don't begin to do it justice. Took 7 months to get it back, likely another before the white interior and so on is ready to go.

Without knowing all of the details, for example, why where the parts traded between cars (?) it isn't possible to know what has happened. IF, for example, the car brought in had parts that were beyond practical repair, they may have been swapped for something that was repairable. An e31 head that is beyond practical salvage may get swapped for a different one in the best interest of the vehicle. Communication between the mechanic and the client is important. As a contractor, I do know that there is no way to please some customers. When you can tell this going in, there is a PITA fee associated with the project. Sometimes it is hidden, sometimes it is incorporated into labor rates, but it is there. No business with 30 years experience wakes up in the morning and says, "I am going to steal the good stuff off this car and no one will ever know". They don't stay in business for 30 years. Judging from the tone of the post, there is a lot more going on. Always ask and get all the information before assessing guilt. Then punch them in the nose if necessary

I agree, typical wear. All of the posts should look like that, and the edge of the rotor will have some pocking to it. Nothing in that picture to cause a miss.

Thanks for the links! People laugh when I tell them I have an old Volvo. Right up until they get beat between the lights with it. I am bringing home my 110 red/orange car from the paint shop this afternoon (been there since Feb) and it too has slotted mags. They only work on certain cars and I think this Z will be one of them. They should compliment the white interior and the handsome wooden shift knob

Sinister? Nope, wasn't sinister. I'm not and never was a fan of black wheels. Picture three is the best, but they are still black wheels. Keep in mind my "other" toy car is a 57 Volvo. (avitar) Something about slotted mags on a Z that seem "right".

Uhg-lee!

Hi, and welcome to the site. There is a lot of info on this subject, check by using the search function. The problem is either in the fuse by the passenger's feet or in the switch itself. Check for corrosion at the fuse and make sure everything has a good contact. The other issue is the switch, which is very common. Sometimes simply taking it apart and cleaning it well will solve the problem. There is a member here, Dave, that rebuilds these and is well respected on the board for electrical issues. One of the problems with the switch is that all of the current to the lights goes through it as there is no relay. Black Dragon sells a multi-fit unit for the 280Z that works really well for me. I know Dave builds one for the 240 that is more exacting in the fit, but he didn't have one for the 280 at the time. The problem with the switch will remain until you fix or replace it. The relay set up keeps the problem from coming back AND it will make your headlights very bright, a win win for cheap. But, do the search for "head light switch" or "hi beams" and read and expand the search until you find a thread that answers the specific question (on this and other issues).