IdahoKidd

If you sent your mechanic the original post and he told you it was a wireless remote, you need a new mechanic! NOTHING in that post indicated a remote wireless start and everything pointed to a trigger remote.

I'm with Sblake. You are looking for a hand held trigger that jumps the starter excite wire (spade on solenoid) with the primary wire to bump the engine over without using the key. ( a rich man's screwdriver--those who know, know) They are 8-9 bucks at any parts house and come with aligator clips on the wires. Takes all of 8 seconds to hook up. Be sure to leave the key off or the car may surprise the hell out of you and start. Pulling the coil wire is a good idea.

If the car will start and run for 5-10 minutes, the firing order and timing okay. Timing may not be perfect, but not to be fooled with yet, it creates to many variables. The fuel pump should come on when you turn the key on and pump for a few seconds and then shut off. It shouldn't come back on until the engine starts. Check to see if the wiring has been altered to the pump. There may be a rogue wire from the fuse panel back to the pump for example. I am guessing/certain that the symptoms and the information from the PO that there is a fuel delivery problem. It could be just the fuel filter. You may need to find a fuel pressure gauge to be certain. On the starter solenoid, there is a single wire wire with a spade just above the main terminal. This is the starter excite wire. Take it off temporarily. Pull the hose off of the filter on the engine side and put a short piece of hose onto it and into a container and turn the key on. You should have a good solid flow of fuel. If not, do the same thing on the tank side of the filter (actually using the fuel line, not from the filter) If you don't have fuel, you have a pump that isn't working or a clog in the intake (which is VERY likely). If you do have fuel on the engine side of the filter, pull the return line next to the filter (smaller line coming back from the injectors) and see if there is fuel coming back completing the circuit. (remember to hook the spade connector back to the starter at some point or the starter doesn't engage). The fact that it starts and runs means the system is working. I am thinking it becomes a fuel starvation issue. I changed out 2 or three or more fuel filters before biting the bullet and took down the tank and shoveled out the crap in it. I've had to do that on all three of my running Z's as they all had sat for some time before I got them (5-16 years) Do let us know how/if you get it going so the next guy that does a search with similar issues can find your particular solution. Leonard

Congrats!

The car used to be yellow. I can't decide if I like the painted bumpers. My 77 has the same hurst shift lever. You'd never get that money on the west coast, too many just like it with less problems (paint, rust, interior, engine detail, etc). Couldn't tell you about the VIN related details and "correct"

I put a group 24F in my 77. I would have came with a group 24. The "F" has the positive post on the opposite side. My logic, after buring a hole in my hood when the battery shifted, is that the positive post would set out from under the inspection cover and if the battery ever moved again, it wouldn't arc and burn another hole. Cables and batteries can be purchased at NAPA, Orielly's, etc. Nothing special about them at all unless you are going for a spot on restoration.

On a related note. Any NGK"R" plug I have ever put into any running motor I have had to push home at some point. Everything from my ATV, my dirt and street bike, my snowmobiles, lawn mower, I have had to push home because of plug failure. They fail prematurely and I will NEVER put another R plug into anything I own. I'd put in a champion plug first! Now, a non NGK"R" plug, IF you can find them, are the best!

ZKars and Lazo, do you realize you are responding to a post that is 6 years old?

I have never seen anything like them and quite honestly think they are just plain ugly. The guy is using them for the selling feature of the 73 Z in the pic (the front end has been hit HARD) and wants $1500 for it. It isn't a $100 car. Just wondering if he was blowing smoke or whether I should at least go make an offer. I think I'll pass...... Thanks for the info though. Sometimes you just never know what may turn up. Leonard

God created light. It took Lucas to make it dark again.

I found this car and the owner is stating these are "rare SSR wheels from Japan, perhaps the only set in America" Anyone recognize them or know anything about them? Thanks, Leonard

check for "thermotime switch" in the search function or in the manual. I can't recall off the top of my head, but I think it fuels for cold start. Check the connections to the two sensors in the very front of the motor. One is the temp sensor, the other the thermotime switch. You might try unhooking the cold start injector plug so it can't put fuel into the system too.

Jeff, Spend every spare minute you have reading every post ever put here and you'll have a beginning of what you will need to know. It sounds as though you have a major project car. Check for more rust. Check the frame rails, the fire wall behind the rusted fenders, under the battery, under the carpet, along the back of the hatch, and on and on. You may find that it is going to be more effort than you might want. I agree with Steve, determine what you need to do, determine your budget, and then decide from there. My 72 orange with white required minimal body work, had no rust, had a running engine, and I have just cruised past $7000 on a car I didn't expect to put $1500 into. And I am about 4K short of completion. It happens fast and with big numbers. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have..... However, it will be awesome when it is done! Good luck, but read read read. Leonard PS If you click under the members names on "see my Z photos", many have project pictures and often they are great for references on your own project PSS You are likely to get scolded for posting the same question in more than one spot. I absolutely guarantee your post will get read, no matter where it gets posted.

Hey, I just fixed this very same problem last night. Under the dash where the pedal connects to the clutch master is a rod that is threaded with a lock nut on it. If the nut comes loose, the rod can rotate and the travel of the pedal becomes limited. I am betting the car starts to move when the pedal is still very close to the floor.(?) Adjust the rod so that the free play is largely gone (when the car doesn't move when the clutch is let out to about a third of the pedal throw). I'd bet money on it! Leonard Number 1 in the pic above

Does the car have an automatic or a manual transmission? If a manual, it is almost certainly the clutch.

Very nice!

Anyone have a better definition of a "punk"?

Hi Dank, welcome aboard! If all of the stuff is actually true, and it looks like it could be, the car looks good from here (Idaho ). The price is right where it should be I'd think. Search here for issues and read all of the posts you have time for. Rust is a huge issue on these cars. As far as operating costs, they aren't budget busters. Expect something around 18 -25 mpg. Parts are cheap and plentiful and there is a ton of help and experience here. You'll need to get a service manual and be able to do some wrenching or be able to learn to. It is all little stuff, but these cars are considered dinosaurs to the modern repair shop. I'd drive my 77 anywhere on the planet and not expect any issues at all. And you'll have to do something about the color scheme. It has some serious chick deflection about it. (IMO) I'd say check it out, if you like it, drive it home and smile all the way! Leonard

I am with Dave on the exhaust leak. Does the tap increase rythym with RPMs? Change sound or pitch with a load? Can you isolate it to front or back of motor or top or bottom? Any chance it goes away when the clutch is depressed? Is it there from cold start? What do you know about the motor? Could be piston slap, wrist pin... could be lots of things. Are you running manual fuel pump? More information will lead to more speculation.

I had that banner on my 280 when I got it. Drove it for nearly a year then replaced the glass. Took weeks to get used to driving it without it....

My 77 will occasionally do that. In my case, it is a contact issue with the fuse itself. Rotating the fuse inside the metal prongs that hold it into place get it going again. I really need to clean the contacts I suppose. To the best of my knowledge, only the 78 has vacuum controls to the heat/ac system. You will be able to tell by a vacuum cannister mounted on the right innner fender and a series of vacuum lines that go into the firewall. Leonard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "you guys are going to drive me crazy i have a 11/71 hls30-17645 it is a 71." I have two 10/71's, one is 49062, one is 59995. Both titled as 72's Out of curiosity, and it may have been answered somewhere before, where all the z's (240's) made in the same plant/assembly line?

The poor start and running conditions you describe are not symptoms of valve trouble but sound like fuel issues. Before you get carried away with an expensive valve job, check things like the compression, the color of the plugs, etc. Check fuel pressure and fuel flow. It sounds more like a clogged fuel filter or a gummed up gas tank. Be sure your timing is correct and your cap, plugs and wires are in good shape. You may dive into a head job and find it is no better than before. Go to the "search" function at the top of the page and spend an hour chasing threads about fuel pressure, gas tanks, fuel lines, no start issues, etc. It will save you hundreds of dollars and give you some great knowledge. Give more background on the car too please, such as, how long have you owned it, when was it running well last, how long has it sat, any mods that you know of, etc. All of these things can trigger responses from members who have 'been there, done that' and will keep you from re-inventing the wheel. Let us know whay you find out. Leonard

The motor is complete, with starter and transmission for $250. But, it is a 4 hour drive. Everything in Idaho is a 4 hour drive. If it were closer, I'd get it just to get it. I don't really have need for it. It is in extreme north eastern Washington if someone else is interested.

Hi guys, I have found a complete diesel motor. What is the crank worth to someone wanting to build a stroker? I don't really have a use for it but hate to see it go to waste. ( I am trying to decide if it is worth my time and effort to fool with it) Thanks, Leonard