IdahoKidd

All three of my 77's have N47 heads, which have round ports. Be certain you double check the head and port before ordering a header or you may not get the one you need. As I recall, the Cal emissions motor have an altitude compensator and a catalytic converter but nothing else. No smog pump or O2 sensors in the exhaust (until you get to the ZX years). My header came with an O2 boss and a plug if it didn't use the sensor.

at coinmil dot com it says that is $9859.00. Without seeing the car, but if it was clean and rust free and correct I'd think it went for a good price for both buyer and seller, perhaps a bit better for the buyer. IF it were in good condition. And I don't have a clue about the supply and demand in your area, which can make a huge difference either direction. Thanks for letting us know the price.

Would you be kind enough to tell us what it did go for? Mostly curious. Leonard

I'd have bet against that but am so glad you got it back! Congrats and good luck getting back into shape. Leonard

Everyone has an opinion. I think the 2+2 was a terrible distortion of a nice car. It was orignally built to satisfy the insurance company by taking it out of the sports car class. Just because it has a seat, doesn't mean you can set in it. The standard 2 seater by all means has a better profile and looks proportionate. As for your goals, if there isn't much of a following there, it is going to be tough getting all the items together. Get the car first, and read read read everything you can find. For the conversion issues, check out hybridz.org as they specialize in altering the Z's. Good luck!

If they did a Z on Overhaulin', I'd think that car is largely what they'd come up with. I'm still wondering if it wasn't an April fools' gag that might have went too far.....

Jon, You were dead on. All we had handy was the pictures from black dragon. They show it turned the other way. Inspection of the other Z's in my yard showed it the opposite direction. Thanks for the tip! Leonard

Hey thanks for the work and the effort! I've saved it to file for putting back together my 72.

Just bought one at O'reilly's and feel very confident. New, not rebuilt. Not going to give it a second thought.

I thought it should have been a direct swap. It belongs to the guy who is painting my car and since I am still recovering from rotator surgery, all I can do is watch. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. We are thinking the solid diff mount is the problem, that it was meant for a different application or ?? We will try to find an oem style today and see if it is different. The old one was decayed and tossed. It was mind boggling last night as everything seemed to work right up until it didn't. As soon as we can get his car out of the way (major suspension work), I can get my car in for the shell to be painted. It isn't about him, it's about me LOLLOLLOL

Trying to put a 77 diff into a 75 body using the 77 crossmember with a solid diff mount. The problem is the centering bolt is too far forward by an inch. I can't locate this issue in the searches (too much information, nothing specific). Any suggestions on what might be wrong? Any chance the mount itself is wrong? I am assuming:finger:that the diff is physically the same in the 75 as is in the 77. Thanks! Leonard

Indeed. Moscow, Idaho USA. Armpit of creation.

An F54 block with flat pistons is a non turbo and there are literally hundreds and hundreds out there for less than that. I can't imagine why anyone would have spent the money to sleeve it. I'd pass and buy one of mine instead.

I have just realized I don't have a hole for the fuel pump (boss is there) on my N47 head. I will pull the head and take out the cast aluminum, is there anything particular I need to do or look out for? Thanks, Leonard

Keep it. Even in north idaho I specifically sought out a 280z that had factory air. I can't imagine living in southern cal without it, in anything.

I have a fully prepped rebuilt L28 ($5200.00 in receipts) engine on an engine stand destined for my 240. The shop painted the entire engine, head, valve cover, pan, a dark Ford blue. I am wanting/planning to paint the block 110 red/orange/Persimmons to match the body color and the valve cover I have polished and trimmed out to match body color (different post here). I think having the head painted body color is too much, but am concerned about getting the blue paint off without staining the aluminum and not sure it is worth the effort to polish. I guess the question is, what are you guys doing with the cylinder head when dressing up the car? I am not building a show car, not keeping to exact oem, am intending to keep it period correct, and definately building it suit me. Should I just get it back to bare aluminum and let it go at that? Should I get some Hi Temp aluminum colored paint? Open to all suggestions. Thanks! Leonard

Zed, Thanks for posting the #'s. I am going to bookmark them as I will be replacing them in the near future. Nice to find this information! Leonard

OK car probably, NOT close to 10 grand and not close to original collecter by any stretch

Nice car, serial # just over 800 from mine. Curious to see what it sells for.

My painter insisted we change the doglegs "just to be sure". We used the ones from Black Dragon and he was very satisfied with the fit. They were about $54 each. It took about an hour on each side to remove and replace. You can see in the picture of one the amount of underseal that had been in place but you can see to the surface rust around the edges. There was no signs of rust on the outside however.

I found this link while killing time on craigslist http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1653661113.html It "looks" original enough but it has an automatic. I hadn't heard of any with automatics but..... FYI-I have nothing to do with this car but the interest in the discussion it may generate

Oven cleaner works really well EXCEPT it will stain your aluminum. It will eat the grease and the paint. A cleaner that works well without harming the aluminum but will still eat the paint is called "Carbon off" Really good stuff and bought at appliance repair shops.

My 240 has the stock manifold and the twice pipes pretty much as shown and I like the sound. In fact, I am very glad you found that link as I am going to purchase this unit to replace what is there for the "restoration". Leonard

How difficult is it to get some pictures and look into some specific details? The fuel injection, is it a stock configuration or a modified such as mega squirt? Is the suspension stock or does it have coil overs? A picture of the GT badge and location would be interesting. Sounds to me like a 75 280z that someone has put some candy on to dress it up. My buddy's 75 has the large filler that my 72 240 has. At some point 280z, at least in the states, went to the smaller fuel neck for emmissions (vapor loss and so on). If it is a 75 280, it is worth what you are willing to pay for it. Down here (northern Idaho), they sell for about $2000 as a daily driver, and not a heck of a lot more glamorized). Of course the amendments could add or detract value, depending on what they are and how well they were done. Never heard of a GT in any Z but it has been pointed out I have a hearing problem sometimes

Killer, what car/year? I have misc such parts from a used late 77/78. Haven't looked to check condition closely, but know they were okay. Send me a private if you are interested. Leonard