IdahoKidd

If you don't get the rattle from the fuel pump, you may not be getting power to it. I'd probably start there, check the fusable links with a test light and wiggle them to insure contact. How long has it been since this car was driven last?

Hi Manny, There is a difference between pressure and volume. Typically, an engine doesn't need a high pressure, but volume is always good. The turbo pumps provide higher pressure because they are feeding the oil serviced turbo. The turbo oil pump that would be in a zx with an automatic transmission would put out the higher pressure and a higher volume because in addition to feeding the motor and the turbo, it also had to push it through the oil cooler and back to the pan. For an average l26, the turbo oil pump from a zx with an automatic might be considered overkill. On the otherhand, I have never heard of an engine fail because it had too much oil. I went with the turbo pump from the l28et with a manual as it was about 30 bucks or so cheaper and the one with the automatic and I was comfortable with the knowledge it was already a step up from a stock pump.

Hey meats, I am having a hard time making the connection between the fuel pump fuse blowing and fixing it by replacing the voltage regulator. I'm betting changing the regulator didn't do a thing, but that you replaced the fues with one for higher amperage (intentionally or unintentionally). It sounds like you have just move the symptom to somewhere else but have the same problem. Did the car ever work correctly since you have owned it? When you pull the fuse to keep it running, what fuse are you pulling?

I agree, probably no quick fix. The clutch and brakes are likely a matter of getting the system blead. There could be issues beyond that as well, wheel cylinders, slave, masters, etc. As for fuel, can you hear the pump run when you initially turn on the key? It should chatter for just a few seconds. How long has the car been setting? Tank could be gummed up too. Fuel filter could be plugged. Could be...... How far do you have to move the car? Depending on the urgency, it sounds like it is going on a car tailer.

Found the usual junk under the Z seat, but bought an old Volvo that the guy had for year and years but didn't do anything with it because he couldn't get a title for it. I bought it for parts and didn't care. Cleaned it out and found an envelope under the drivers seat, had the signed title with the date of some 20 years earlier. It is the 57 444K in my Avitar. One of the first 100 Volvo's legally imported to the states. I about crapped my pants!

I just researched this for my own car, a 280. Extra volume is a good thing, but not necessary. A pump from a zx turbo produces more pressure than a stock non turbo motor and a pump from a zx turbo with an automatic produces both more pressure and more volume as the automatic version has a built in oil cooler in the radiator. The general conclusion that I came up with is to use the turbo motor oil pump (manual trans) unless you have an auxilary oil cooler. Plus, it is cheaper. I haven't fired that motor yet so can't tell you what the gauge says, but it has to be better than what the old gauge read (about 5 lbs unless it was very cold). At least this is what I did. Leonard

I have a product in there now from Prestone and have a demo product to try next that is supposed to be awesome. Not big on Prestone stuff. I don't know the specifics on the new stuff, the service director for GM just spent 8 hours at school on it and came back pretty impressed. As for the 'stats, yes, I have checked all three on the stove and all three open when they are supposed to. Something is busted inside I am certain of it. But now that I have a little heat, I'm just going to drive it until it breaks. Only downside to that is that it won't break down in a "good spot", I'll be miles from home or some such thing. Leonard

Hello and welcome aboard! Where is Lefforge anyway?

just came back in from the shop. Using a laser digital thermometer, temp readings are: Thermostat housing 132 top of radiator 120 Midpoint of radiator through fan 96 Head temp above/at sparkplugs 162 Head temp at back of block 162 Upper heater hose at fire wall 91 Lower heater hose at fire wall 91 Temp at water temp sensor at block 132 Exhaust temp at collector 475 Temp at Y at water pump inlet 92 Temp gauge shows about 160. Has known good 190 thermostat. These were taken a couple of days ago. I did a back flush and got just a hint of rust out, nothing substantial. It has prestone flush chemical in it now and supposed to run for 6 hours. Took it to a semi retired datsun tech who hasn't work on Z's since the 70's and we couldn't come up with much. Thinking that perhaps there is a crack or a break in the water jacket behind the water pump that is allowing the water to move back and forth without going to the thermostat. Gonna put on a coat and run it till it breaks. I've already driven it about 4000 miles in the past year and it hasn't broke. It makes no sense at all.....

Holy crap, anyone see the date on the original post? August 05.:stupid:

Not the fan clutch either. Took it and the fan off. No difference. I'm telling you, I have a bloody forehead from beating it on the wall. Even the local shops just grin and tell me it isn't possible, even though they can see it with their own eyes. Removing the fan belt does bring the engine heat up so it really does make heat, it just looses it really fast.

Hi Gibby, welcome to the forum and to the Z world! What year ZX? turbo or non? Auto or stick? Will the car just set and idle along fine? When it starts missing, does it do it just revving the engine or when it is under a load (driving). Does it ever reach a point it doesn't do it any longer (driving down the road at 55 for example, or after it runs for 20 minute) How familiar are you with cars? Can you tell if it sounds like fuel or if it sounds electrical? I can often tell the difference but probably can't tell you in writing how. Just an ear thing. I see you have changed the fuel filter. What is the history of the car? Has it been a daily driver all along, has it sat for some time, did the PO mention any issues? Did it work fine for a while and then the problem arise? Check obvious things like loose wires at the coil and distributor, pull the dist cap and spray the inside of the cap and the distributor itself with WD-40. At the top of the page is a "search" option. It is picky and will only find the exact words you put in. Search things like 'erratic tach' 'bouncing tach' 'engine miss' fuel starvation' etc and read through some of the posts. You'll find phrasing that will lead you to a different search and more information. I've seen this symptom listed a lot but have never followed through. I don't know if it is proper etiquette to refer you to a different site with more/different info, but at hybridz.org, there is a lot more zx information. Those guys are over the top anal about the search button and a vast majority of their cars have been altered, but still a lot of reading available and by association of similar problems, you might figure it out. It isn't likely a major issue, just a matter of finding it. I just re-read your post again. It isn't over-fueling by chance? These cars have a sensor in them that enrichens the fuel injection when the motor is cold and then turns itself off when it warms up. If it fails, it might lead to symptoms of having the choke on. Good luck and do let us know. The next guy that has the same problem and uses the search will find your questions and perhaps the answer. Leonard

I am not the original owner, I know the engine in the car came from a bone yard and know that it sat in the car, in a barn for at least 5 years before I got it. I agree there is or was a clog in a water jacket. What I can't figure out is why it has to heat the entire radiator to get any kind of engine temp. It literally takes 20-40 minutes to get a modest engine temp and that is with the rad 100% blocked. I have another completely rebuilt motor, nearly 5 grand worth, setting on an engine stand for a different project, but this motor runs so well....... I can't figure out why it doesn't overheat. I guess for now I keep driving it. Drove it all summer without issues other than it never got warm.

Update: With a pressure washer, I was able to force water through the back of the head. I did get a small amount of rust colored water to come out but nothing I would consider significant. However, I do now have some water flow to the heater core, enough to actually defrost the windows and heat the cabin. The other issue remains, regardless of thermostat, the water temperature remains that of the entire radiator, about 160 degrees. At least I can drive it again.

The heater core is not clogged, and in fact, completely unhooked. The two hoses that go to it are unhooked with no stoppers. There is no water movement there. I have longer hoses attached so I can deal with them easier. If I raise the end of the hose up to level with the top of the hood, no water ever comes out. If I lay them on the floor, it will drain the block and the radiator. However, even the water in the block never gets very warm and I am fully convinced it heats the entire radiator to operating temperature before the thermostat opens, and I can't figure out how that could possibly be happening unless the pump is pushing backwards. You can't imagine the headache I have from trying to figure this out. And yes, it is a 77 280Z, bone stock except for the poor radio and the sunroof. I have ruled out, at least for now, these two as possible trouble spots:disappoin

I am still chasing my no heat problem. Changed out the water pump this morning. Old one looks like new. Installed a new one anyway. With the motor running, temp gauge at midpoint, water moving across the top of the radiator at 160 degrees, I can pull off either and both heat hoses at the firewall and there is no water. If I lay the hose down toward the ground, it will gravity drain the block and radiator, but no circulating hot water. No circulating hot water equals no heat in the cabin. Where do I look next? Leonard

Ah the flashbacks. I had a 73 Dart Sport 340 back when. I sold the car to go to college. I am certain I am still alive because of that. Only car I ever owned that would boil the tires at 60 mph going down the road. Z's are a whole different world. While I have a garage full of Z's and not a single muscle car. I still yearn for a 70 AAR Challenger...... As Z Tyler said, read through the posts here and check out some other sites as well. Many of the folks here are purests which is awesome. Other sites go pretty radical with the Z's, often ending up with the only thing Z is the serial number. To each their own. Personally, I straddle that fence so that I can enjoy both. Z's are a lot like women, do a little homework and don't settle for the first one you find (you can always come back) and test drive a few as they are all different. Pick a good one and you'll be happy for a long time to come. Get one that requires ongoing maintenance, well, it can be a struggle. Leonard

Probably nothing serious. It is always a good idea to have the manifold trued when you reisntall it so that if fits flat, but beyond that, just irritating. Keep in mind it could be something else, but my bet is on a crack or a loose bolt, a hole in the exhaust gasket (something exhaust related)

I'd concur it is an exhaust leak. Check the manifold for a crack. As it gets hotter, the crack expands. Also look at the exhaust manifold bolt closest to the firewall (where the rear engine lift would be). That bolt is broken on three of my cars and one of them leaks there. Look for a black exhaust soot sort of mark. Here in Idaho I just run studded tires and you can't hear the exhaust leak anymore

The car 240dkw mentions in Canada should put it all in perspective for you. IF that is the type of car you want, what you already have can't be made to be like this one for that kind of money. Seems obvious to me. It is my opinion however.............

I'm trying to locate a recent post, it was here or on hybrid Z, a fellow found a red, right hand drive in a wrecking yard in the midwest. The condition was much better than what you have. While I personally have never seen one, there are some around.

2 cents: Use it for a thousand dollars worth of parts and buy a better shell to start with. I've done this sort of thing for years and years. With the experience you have, you will never be able to get this car saved, even with $16K. Spend 2K on a good shell, use the parts from this one and you will be way better off in the long run. Worrying now about the dash, paint, etc, very premature. You have a very long time before you care any where near any of that. It is great to dream. Keep the dream, but do it with a different car. FWIW Leonard

The file from that website has been independantly confirmed as corrupt and won't open.

When doing the 91 honda blower motor swap, no one mentions if they use the civic motor with a/c or a non a/c blower motor. About $60 difference. Let me know. Thanks!