IdahoKidd

Thanks. However, I can't get that link to open.

For those who have followed along in a different thread, you know I have been chasing an engine no heat problem. I "may" have that fixed. It "may" have been an air blockage. That problem aside, I have most of the underside of the dash apart to inspect the heater control valve. When chasing the other problem, after moving the control in the cabin from hot to cold back and forth rapidly, I lost coolant flow through the heater core (as determined with the 5/8 hose off the core under the hood. I suspected I bent the wire. However, everything moves like it is supposed to. I took a separate piece of hose and tried to blow through the heater core. There was no movement of air or water. Moving the control several times and blowing again, quite firmly, it purged coolant and I can now blow freely through the core. So the question: I can blow freely through the core with the control in the warm AND the cold position. I can see there is a small diameter copper tube that runs to the valve. I can't determine exactly what it' function is, but how do the two interact? What tells the valve to restrict the water flow to keep the heat in the heater core? Should I be able to blow through the valve in any position? (this is a 77 280, non a/c, manual operated via wire, not vacuum) FWIW, I bought an FSM online in disc form. Put it in the computer and it locked up the computer. After getting it rebooted, I can not get the disc drawer to open or the computer to read the disc. Short story, I don't have a manual. I have part of today off and would like to put the car back together but don't want to do so if I have to take it apart again. I do have another manual ordered but really don't want to wait that long. Is there a simple way to confirm the control valve is working properly? Thanks! Leonard

I know zilch about electronics but the ebay system has a bunch of stuff related to power door locks. My Z doesn't have such so it seems all you'd be using is the shock alarm. Probably still better than nothing if it will function without all of the other stuff. I'd like to have one with a remote car start too. Also, how much wiring needs to be cut to get all this stuff to work? I am going to put an interrupt switch in the main feed wire to the ecu (pos wire off the battery to ecu) somewhere discrete but accessible so it can be disabled while parked. As for a discernible horn, the 6 volt horn on my 57 Volvo is unique to say the least when it gets excited. It has worked now for 7 years with 12 volts. It'll blow a pedestrian some 12 -15 feet out of a cross walk

Koalia, did you find resolution with the clutch issue?

Geezer, I followed your suggestions about the purge. I also bypassed the heater core completely by looping right back off the back of the block to the Y at the water pump. I added nearly a gallon of coolant after that. I know I didn't loose that much. In the shop, I was able to get the engine temp up to 190 (had upper hose off with thermometer stuck in open end) and the temp gauge also came up to 200. Hooked the upper hose back to the radiator and when the thermostat fully opened, the gauge dropped back to 150 or so. But, it is better than it was. Now I have to figure out what I did to the temp control switch. Moved it back and forth with enough frustration I either bent the lever or the wire came off or something. The outside temp is up 30 degrees as well. I still don't believe it is fixed, but........... perhaps a drive tomorrow in the new snow will tell me.

Hey guys, I am still plugging along. Woke up to a basement full of water from a frozen/broken water line so no Z activity today. Perhaps tomorrow I'll try some of the things mentioned (purging for air, etc.)

Moving the clutch fork by hand will take a huge effort. You'll have to make a lever of some sort to disengage the clutch. As I see it, one of three things has happened: 1; the piston in the slave is stuck, bound up somehow 2; the rubber (or even metal tubing for that matter) is collapsed internally or blocked somehow or 3, the master is not working (non movement of the piston, leakage around the piston, blocked port, etc.) Just re-read your original post. You mentioned having the master out. Are you certain the push rod from the pedal assembly is positioned in the piston of the master correctly? Is there any resistance at all when you push the pedal down? Does the pedal go all the way to the floor and return all the way back? I don't recall on the Z, but on some vehicles, there is a short rod that goes from the pedal actuator to the piston of the master. If so, it may have gotten left out. When the clutch is being depressed can you see movement of anykind in the fluid of the resevoir (cap off looking down) or are any bubbles present? If you take the master back out, put it in a vise or find some way to hold it down and push the piston in with a dowl of some sort. It should squirt fluid out the port and it should also push back against you to the point that it will actually return to the full out position (spring loaded). If it doesn't do either, it is a master problem. Doing both does not rule out the master however.

Coolant flows freely the through the core, I just put in new lines from the block to the core. Both lines. Double checked two other cars to be sure they were in the right place. The repair shop says something inside the the head, the block, or the water pump is allowing water to get to the radiator by going around the thermostat. We are going to completely block off the water neck at the thermostat housing and see if we can get the temp to come up. It will clearly confirm the suspecion but may not confirm the culprit. It is already 8 degrees this morning and I am starting to get tough. It isn't as big an issue as it was

My white 77 280z with 56K miles. It was given to me outright when I asked how much as the guy had been fooling with it for years and couldn't get it running. Turns out the feed wire and the ground wire to the fuel injection system are the same gauge red wires and they were simply crossed. That was 18 months ago. Now I have 7 of the blessed things. Now if I could only get some heat out of it...........

I just came back in from the shop. Using a laser digital thermometer, temp readings are: Thermostat housing 132 top of radiator 120 Midpoint of radiator through fan 96 Head temp above/at sparkplugs 162 Head temp at back of block 162 Upper heater hose at fire wall 91 Lower heater hose at fire wall 91 Temp at water temp sensor at block 132 Exhaust temp at collector 475 Temp at Y at water pump inlet 92 Temp gauge shows about 160. Has known good 190 thermostat. The only conclusion is that the water is bypassing the thermostat and getting back to the radiator to cool. I simply can't figure out how that can be possible. A non circulating water pump would cause the engine to heat. Been to two shops now and still no idea of where to even start. Someone needs to make a little icon of a white surrender flag so I can wave it .........

Feel free to rub it in :mad: Check to see that the wire from the shift control on the dash is connected to and actually moving mixture control valve (under/behind glove compartment)

Yeah I know it should work, hell, one the Z's I bought this spring has a ski rack on it. Can't imagine going skiing in a car with no heater. (did it once but that is a very different story..........) It looks like you guys are getting it worse than we did. Just cold and windy here.

Just a gallon of the orange paint for my 72 was $600 and it was 'the cheap stuff' Just the paint on the Volvo in my Avitar was $1700. It was good stuff, but installed wrong apparently and cracked. Lesson from that was get decent paint and put the money into someone that knows what they are doing. Orange car is currently being disassembled for painting so don't know other costs just yet.

What symptoms started this out? Did you replace anything? Did it work okay before? Is the clutch engaged currently? You should depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor and keep it there. Then, with the pedal on the floor, crack the bleeder valve and either a short burst of wet air or fluid should come out. With it still on the floor, tighten the valve again and release. Do this same step two or three times until nothing but fluid comes from the bleeder. This takes two people or a power bleeder of some sort. The pedal must be fully to the floor when the bleeder is cracked and tightened each time. IF this doesn't solve the problem, it is possible the line to the slave may have internally or you may have a blockage in the master or slave. This is why I was asking if it was working okay before a change of some sort. Perhaps pinched the line, etc.

Coolant drop is only from the engine block to the heater core. The heater core is essentially a miniture radiator and the systems sheds heat all along the way. What I don't know now is if the water pump is not pushing enough volume to prevent the heat loss or just what. The block water should be 200 with the 200 thermostat and it simply isn't. I am doing some homework now on how the water bypass system inside the pump works. Heated water is leaving the block prematurely I think and never letting it get completely hot. With all my heart I don't want to work on it today (and won't). Tomorrow the high is 15, the low -1. I've already dug out my "clean clothes car". At least there isn't any snow. yet.

200 degree thermostat makes 160 coolant temp. Heat loss through heater hose and to heater core drops heater core temp to 90. Air temp at defrosters is 62. Cabin temp is 46 degrees. Guess I am driving the back up car for a while.

as of this morning the white one with no heat, is called "Frosty"

No, the selector works fine and it regulates what heat is there. The engine itself isn't making heat. I've tried three thermostats from used motors I have setting in the shop. All open and close in a pan of heated water. I am going to go buy a new one today and give it a shot. As I mentioned above, I can pull the radiator cap and put my finger in the water after running for two hours. I bought a candy thermometer to get specific numbers and have it scheduled for a thermal imaging at the local Toyota shop. The motor is a rebuild with about 20k miles on it. It runs perfect, isn't overfueling. The clutch fan rotates freely which tells me it isn't locked up. It is the traveling with the piece of cardboard covering the radiator and still not making heat that is the bizarre thing as it should act like a manual thermostat of sorts. 7 degrees outside this morning, heat is sort of an issue.