IdahoKidd

I know zilch about electronics but the ebay system has a bunch of stuff related to power door locks. My Z doesn't have such so it seems all you'd be using is the shock alarm. Probably still better than nothing if it will function without all of the other stuff. I'd like to have one with a remote car start too. Also, how much wiring needs to be cut to get all this stuff to work? I am going to put an interrupt switch in the main feed wire to the ecu (pos wire off the battery to ecu) somewhere discrete but accessible so it can be disabled while parked. As for a discernible horn, the 6 volt horn on my 57 Volvo is unique to say the least when it gets excited. It has worked now for 7 years with 12 volts. It'll blow a pedestrian some 12 -15 feet out of a cross walk

Koalia, did you find resolution with the clutch issue?

Geezer, I followed your suggestions about the purge. I also bypassed the heater core completely by looping right back off the back of the block to the Y at the water pump. I added nearly a gallon of coolant after that. I know I didn't loose that much. In the shop, I was able to get the engine temp up to 190 (had upper hose off with thermometer stuck in open end) and the temp gauge also came up to 200. Hooked the upper hose back to the radiator and when the thermostat fully opened, the gauge dropped back to 150 or so. But, it is better than it was. Now I have to figure out what I did to the temp control switch. Moved it back and forth with enough frustration I either bent the lever or the wire came off or something. The outside temp is up 30 degrees as well. I still don't believe it is fixed, but........... perhaps a drive tomorrow in the new snow will tell me.

Hey guys, I am still plugging along. Woke up to a basement full of water from a frozen/broken water line so no Z activity today. Perhaps tomorrow I'll try some of the things mentioned (purging for air, etc.)

Moving the clutch fork by hand will take a huge effort. You'll have to make a lever of some sort to disengage the clutch. As I see it, one of three things has happened: 1; the piston in the slave is stuck, bound up somehow 2; the rubber (or even metal tubing for that matter) is collapsed internally or blocked somehow or 3, the master is not working (non movement of the piston, leakage around the piston, blocked port, etc.) Just re-read your original post. You mentioned having the master out. Are you certain the push rod from the pedal assembly is positioned in the piston of the master correctly? Is there any resistance at all when you push the pedal down? Does the pedal go all the way to the floor and return all the way back? I don't recall on the Z, but on some vehicles, there is a short rod that goes from the pedal actuator to the piston of the master. If so, it may have gotten left out. When the clutch is being depressed can you see movement of anykind in the fluid of the resevoir (cap off looking down) or are any bubbles present? If you take the master back out, put it in a vise or find some way to hold it down and push the piston in with a dowl of some sort. It should squirt fluid out the port and it should also push back against you to the point that it will actually return to the full out position (spring loaded). If it doesn't do either, it is a master problem. Doing both does not rule out the master however.

Coolant flows freely the through the core, I just put in new lines from the block to the core. Both lines. Double checked two other cars to be sure they were in the right place. The repair shop says something inside the the head, the block, or the water pump is allowing water to get to the radiator by going around the thermostat. We are going to completely block off the water neck at the thermostat housing and see if we can get the temp to come up. It will clearly confirm the suspecion but may not confirm the culprit. It is already 8 degrees this morning and I am starting to get tough. It isn't as big an issue as it was

My white 77 280z with 56K miles. It was given to me outright when I asked how much as the guy had been fooling with it for years and couldn't get it running. Turns out the feed wire and the ground wire to the fuel injection system are the same gauge red wires and they were simply crossed. That was 18 months ago. Now I have 7 of the blessed things. Now if I could only get some heat out of it...........

I just came back in from the shop. Using a laser digital thermometer, temp readings are: Thermostat housing 132 top of radiator 120 Midpoint of radiator through fan 96 Head temp above/at sparkplugs 162 Head temp at back of block 162 Upper heater hose at fire wall 91 Lower heater hose at fire wall 91 Temp at water temp sensor at block 132 Exhaust temp at collector 475 Temp at Y at water pump inlet 92 Temp gauge shows about 160. Has known good 190 thermostat. The only conclusion is that the water is bypassing the thermostat and getting back to the radiator to cool. I simply can't figure out how that can be possible. A non circulating water pump would cause the engine to heat. Been to two shops now and still no idea of where to even start. Someone needs to make a little icon of a white surrender flag so I can wave it .........

Feel free to rub it in :mad: Check to see that the wire from the shift control on the dash is connected to and actually moving mixture control valve (under/behind glove compartment)

Yeah I know it should work, hell, one the Z's I bought this spring has a ski rack on it. Can't imagine going skiing in a car with no heater. (did it once but that is a very different story..........) It looks like you guys are getting it worse than we did. Just cold and windy here.

Just a gallon of the orange paint for my 72 was $600 and it was 'the cheap stuff' Just the paint on the Volvo in my Avitar was $1700. It was good stuff, but installed wrong apparently and cracked. Lesson from that was get decent paint and put the money into someone that knows what they are doing. Orange car is currently being disassembled for painting so don't know other costs just yet.

What symptoms started this out? Did you replace anything? Did it work okay before? Is the clutch engaged currently? You should depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor and keep it there. Then, with the pedal on the floor, crack the bleeder valve and either a short burst of wet air or fluid should come out. With it still on the floor, tighten the valve again and release. Do this same step two or three times until nothing but fluid comes from the bleeder. This takes two people or a power bleeder of some sort. The pedal must be fully to the floor when the bleeder is cracked and tightened each time. IF this doesn't solve the problem, it is possible the line to the slave may have internally or you may have a blockage in the master or slave. This is why I was asking if it was working okay before a change of some sort. Perhaps pinched the line, etc.

Coolant drop is only from the engine block to the heater core. The heater core is essentially a miniture radiator and the systems sheds heat all along the way. What I don't know now is if the water pump is not pushing enough volume to prevent the heat loss or just what. The block water should be 200 with the 200 thermostat and it simply isn't. I am doing some homework now on how the water bypass system inside the pump works. Heated water is leaving the block prematurely I think and never letting it get completely hot. With all my heart I don't want to work on it today (and won't). Tomorrow the high is 15, the low -1. I've already dug out my "clean clothes car". At least there isn't any snow. yet.

200 degree thermostat makes 160 coolant temp. Heat loss through heater hose and to heater core drops heater core temp to 90. Air temp at defrosters is 62. Cabin temp is 46 degrees. Guess I am driving the back up car for a while.

as of this morning the white one with no heat, is called "Frosty"

No, the selector works fine and it regulates what heat is there. The engine itself isn't making heat. I've tried three thermostats from used motors I have setting in the shop. All open and close in a pan of heated water. I am going to go buy a new one today and give it a shot. As I mentioned above, I can pull the radiator cap and put my finger in the water after running for two hours. I bought a candy thermometer to get specific numbers and have it scheduled for a thermal imaging at the local Toyota shop. The motor is a rebuild with about 20k miles on it. It runs perfect, isn't overfueling. The clutch fan rotates freely which tells me it isn't locked up. It is the traveling with the piece of cardboard covering the radiator and still not making heat that is the bizarre thing as it should act like a manual thermostat of sorts. 7 degrees outside this morning, heat is sort of an issue.

There is a thread on HybridZ about it. He got it back, missing only specific items. Pretty lucky all things considered.

Check the connection that goes from the positive cable at the battery to the ecu. It is a little white flat spade connector on a red wire. Unpug, check for corrosion, clean, replug. There is a second one that looks almost identical that goes to the neg cable, also red. One 'should' have a female end at the battery, the other a male so they don't cross. I got a free car because these two wires were crossed. One is the ecu feed wire, the other the ecu ground. Car will crank like crazy but never fire.

Doesn't Chrysler do that with wood grain looking stuff? (sometimes call shelf liner)

Here in Idaho we have three seasons, winter, summer and construction. All the way up to 25 now. 60X100 heated shop with a lift..........and can barely get a Z in. Maybe this winter I'll start by cleaning out the shop...........

Hey Fastwoman, it is cold here but it has warmed up to 22 this morning. I thought about the fan but it seems to be just fine. I know exactly how they work and sound when they lock up. I took the car to the Toyota shop yesterday (no nissan dealer here for 100 miles) and the tech looked it over and determined "that motor doesn't make heat) and scratched his head then added "that ain't possible". I am going back on Monday and he has a thermal imaging gun that he will shoot the whole block with. I've got 11 cars and have had a hundred through the years, this has really got me stumped. PS, I have tried thermostats with and without the "bleed" hole. No difference.

Nope, the cardboard didn't work. Drove it about 6 miles and was able to take the radiator cap off and literally stick my fingers in the water. Barely bathtub warm. It makes no sense to me at all.

Arnie, I absolutely agree with you. Study these for a bit, get a feel for what is wrong with them, and then find one that doesn't have as much to do. You can find one that is ready to drive away for $2000. (obviously more for top of line cars, but they are out there) That amount of money won't make a good start on either of these. As far as value for parts, there isn't a lot there that is better than what somebody already has. You'll recover your money, but not likely to hit the jackpot. In the mean time, read and follow the posts here. Just reading these has given me a sense of what to expect from them along the way.

Man that is custom!

That makes sense Arne. Corndodger, I hadn't called a dealer, but did call 3 different parts houses locally and also checked online. All of them listed the auto and stick as different and one guy made up an explanation that they probably had different physical dimensions to allow for accessories. Probably won't buy it from that guy. I think I'll save the extra bucks. Thanks guys. Leonard