IdahoKidd

I've searched and this thread came back up and since it is recent, I hope still relavent. My 77 280z has never run much in the way of a temperature according to the gauge. 140 ish. Now that it gets frosty, that isn't enough of a temp to defrost the windows. I swapped out the thermostat, which was a 200, and put in a new 190 and lost about 10 degrees on the gauge, but there isn't enough heat to defrost the windows, heat the cabin, etc. The radiator is cold to the touch. The thermostat housing is warm to the touch but definately not hot. The hoses from the block to the heater through the fire wall are barely warm. The hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator is cold to the touch. I just checked, cardboard over the radiator for 20 minutes idling brought the temp up on the gauge to about midway, 180ish. Could both thermostats have been bad? They should hold the water in the block until the specified temp and release it only when that temp is exceded and close up again when the temp falls below, right? Am I missing something or is there another issue? Thanks guys (and gals) Leonard

I am tinkering on the 280z today and decided to change out the oil pump and put in the zx turbo oil pump. The parts house wants to know if I need the one for the automatic or the manual. I have the 4 speed in the car but since it isn't the "correct" application, I am wondering what the difference is. I will be changing out the oil pump on my turbo conversion (different car-same year) later on. That motor came with an auto but will have the 5 speed when it is done. Again, wondering what the difference is besides $30 bucks? Thanks! Leonard

Bummer, cuz 5 grand was just what I was thinking too Seriously, there are a ton of Z's out there. NONE of them will replace yours, but you will find one that will win your heart. After hearing of the fellow that was in the wreck and got $600 for his and now $500 for yours, it is imperitive that we get an appraisal yearly to be able to prove value. Best of luck to you in the search Leonard

Bummer! I've been thinking of listing my white 77 but haven't really pulled the trigger just yet. It is a long ways from you but it is rust free and all stock.

Hey I have an e88 head and an n42 head that I don't need. Valve train is there on both. e88 has a cam. NOT something you are going to bolt on and go. Leonard

I guess I am at least two of the above options. I am putting my 72 240 together in "the spirit" of it's heyday. Not a to the letter restoration, but all things appropriate. I'll keep my slotted mags, I'll do Dave's alternator and light conversions, I'll put in a 5 speed, but I'll keep the stock radio, stock sheet metal, interior etc. Someone walking by will say "Wow, nice 240! Now on one of my 77's, I am installing l28et, 5 speed, some ground effects and a rear spoiler of some sort, some wheels, perhaps a decent stereo. Not a show stopper, not the fastest car in town, but one that will get a double take in the parking lot or cause some of the punk kids to try to race between lights, etc. On the other 77, it is very orginal, plain, white 280 with stock wheels and absolutely nothing special except it isn't beat all to crap and doesn't look like swiss cheese. And as plain as it is, it always amazes me the compliments I get. This car, I simply drive because I enjoy the drive. And on those days I feel like I am really cool, I take out the 57 Volvo. Almost everybody has seen a Z car, almost nobody has seen a 444K. And besides, It'll dust the Z between lights..............

Hey Jan (Pomorza), I'd be interested in the headlights. I have a spare 4 speed (doesn't everyone) that someone can have (shipped at there expense) if it is at all practical. Also have a complete L28 block that sat (in the car) for too long and there is rust on the camshaft and the motor is seized. I didn't fool with it at all, took it out and putting in a turbo so someone can have it if they need it. I could part it out too I suppose. Leonard

This is a list from the skateboarders generation. Not much of a way to justify most of these on the list that 'left the biggest impact on the automotive world'. But, just like arguing with the spouse, it really doesn't matter anyway......... just an opinion

I am currently having my 72 orange Z painted here in town. There is no rust and very minimal body work required (in my eyes). He is painting under the hood (I have the engine out), door jambs, removing the glass, all of the interior plastic is being pulled, etc, for $3000 including the paint. He told me the brand/type of paint, but it eludes me now. Single phase(?) leaded paint, supposed to be as close to the original as one can get. He grimices at the word bondo but does use a plastic skim coat in places. Apparently he likes something that does the same thing but with a different name. This is a painter that takes a couple of years to get into his shop and he is beyond anal. We met at a bidding war over a 240 in a farmers barn and we both eventually got different Z's. His being a 75 with tripple webbers, and strangely enough, the same color as the stock 240 I picked up. He would never have taken on my car and certainly not for that price without having the Z's in common. It is all about who you know. It will be another 6-8 weeks before I get my car but I am looking forward to that spring drive.

UGH! That sucks. It will cost more than you'll ever get back to fight it too. Since following this I have changed my insurance and just got appraisals on two of my cars. I was surprised with one and disappointed by the other. My 72 240, according to the CPI black book, is worth $13,500, which is just short of what I will have in it. My 500SEC is only worth 10K I have the appraisals with the mileage and the date on them. I'll be able to show that on this date, those cars were worth this much. The local car dealer did the appraisal for free. Again, that sucks, but it is very close to what happened to me 7-8 years ago with my Subaru. You can choose to not settle and take them to small claims court. At least you get tell your story, show your pictures, etc. It would cost about 40 bucks or so. Save the lawyer money for a different car for you, not the lawyer. Leonard

Go to hybridz.org. They do tons of altered z applications. Most, not all, but most of the folks here lean toward the purist side of z's.

Keep in mind when establishing value, it will be what "your" car was worth before the accident, not some car on ebay. I don't want to hurt your feelings and I don't mean this as an insult in any way, but before the wreck, from the pictures, in my area that car would sell for around $500. Be prepared for them to offer something to that amount. To defend yourself, you need to have the best pictures of your car that you have. When they value your car, they will take into account the paint, the interior, the rust, the tires, the glass, all of it. I was offered $600 for a subaru wagon that was rearended. Even with receipts of over $2000 above purchase price,( I had bought the car for a grand and repaired it) and a host of pictures, we went to court. The judge told me my sweat equity was of no value, that the car could be replaced in the condition if was in prior to the accident for the thousand dollars I orignially paid for it and that it had a salvalge value of $400. All I ever got was a bent car and $600.00. I asked him to find me that replacement car he spoke of. Court adjourned. I know myself, and it sounds like others, are following this pretty close as it could happen to one of us. How do you put a value on hopes and dreams? I know in my heart that none of my cars, from my 500SEC down to my 57 Volvo would bring the money from a "total" that it would take to replace them, leaving sentimental value aside. It makes one stop and think about all the time and money one puts into his car only to have someone else just take it all away. Please let us know so we can add to our own learning curve when our turn comes. Good luck!

Bummer about the car. I am with Arne, it will be totaled. Take the money, buy it back (as salvage) and use the parts for a different car. I know you are east coast, but you can find a very solid Z here for a grand. Lots of 280's for less than that. Out of curiousity, and if you don't mind sharing, IF it does total, let us know what they give you. It sort of helps determine what some of us might consider under similar circumstances. Leonard

I was just complaining out loud myself and wondering how folks pull the motors in their Z's. I have 5 240/280's and three zx's, one a turbo, and all of them have a loop in the front of the motor and not a single one has one at the rear. I just pulled the turbo motor tonight and since I already had the tranny off, I put a bolt on the top drivers side of the block in a tranny mounting hole. I find it very difficult to believe that all of the rear loops were inadvertantly left off. Without the rear loop, where does everyone else attach to the engine? I also note that all of the motors with the exception of the 72 240 motor do not have the exhaust manifold stud/bolt in place on the rear of the engines (closest to the firewall). That seems odd as well.

I think it is more complicated than that. The 180 shafts "plug in", the 200 shafts have flanges and bolt on. Are you sure you are putting them onto a 200 and not the stock 180?