IdahoKidd

Looks like one I just hauled to the crusher. $200 parts car.

Hard to know where else when you don't say where you've been. MSA, one of the banners across the top of the page, has them

look at hybridz.org lots of options there, from hack jobs to pretty decent looking stuff, if you are into that sort of thing.

here is the link, looks to light weight to me http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160541492878&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT I hadn't heard of anyone doing "this" and not sure what it would serve

I am not sure what "smelly" really means, but I know my new motor smells on startup and when warm, but it smells like a new motor. I am assuming you mean exhaust smell? Is it the type that burns your eyes, just smells like rich exhaust, or burning surface oil and paint? You might give it a couple of really hard drives, get everything that will ever get hot, hot, and then see what you have. It may just need to break in, and your nose just may need to adjust. Hard to tell from Idaho.......

I see a starter relay available on ebay for $15. Am I missing something? Doesn't the key signal the relay/bendix on the starter motor and all of the amperage goes directly from the battery to the starter and not through the switch? I am trying to figure out the benefit to this (looks like typical aftermarket relay)

I agree with Arne and I believe they are the same price.

Same starter. I just put a starter from a manual motor onto my auto motor and works perfect. I wish changing the flex plate (missing tooth) were so easy.

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't a Duramax one of those that is set up like my GTO or my wife's HHR in that only shows the voltage on the 'Driver Info Center' or whatever it's called when either you select the voltmeter or when there is a problem? Were talking about a 280Z voltmeter that shows constantly..... Nope, just has a voltmeter gauge on the right side of the dash from 8-16 volts. Nothing to indicate amperage drop or loss. But, when it says 8 volts, the rig becomes much to heavy to push...... I am sure an engineer somewhere decided it was better to use a volt meter (although it was more likely a bean counter that decided it was cheaper) in all these cars. I grew up depending on the ammeter. On my service trucks, I can tell if the guys left a light or a heater or something on in an enclosed trailer by looking at at the ammeter when I park for the night. It is all a matter of preference I think.

Guess I am old school. All of my stone age vehicles have an amp gauge. Always look at it, no matter the vehicle when I get out. If it shows on the neg side, something is still one, brake light, headlight, etc. Going down the road and it shows neg, something bad is happening. By the time the volt meter shows 8 volts on the duramax, it is much to late to do anything.....

Personally, I much prefer an ammeter. I can tell when the battery is dead, knowing that it is headed that way is of much for help.

That car can be saved!

That generally speaking, if the car was high priced and valuable originally, it probably is now. I have a 1985 Mercedes 500SEC that was the most expensive passenger car available in 1985 at $54,000. (It doesn't even have a cup holder nor a tilt steering wheel). That car is worth about $5000. I have a buddy with a 3 year old Range Rover, original price of mid $60's, can't sell it for $8K.

GREAT color combination! When I had to declare "color" on my registration, I had them go outside and decide for themselves. One car tag says red, the other says orange. The pics are of the twins as they were as of last week. The pic of the car with the interior really is the same color, it is outside in natural light and really doesn't look that way to the eye.

My 77 runs flawlessly and I'd drive it anywhere at anytime. When I got it, the PO had really messed up the installation of the newly rebuilt motor (that is what led to this board) and once it was fixed (wiring issues), it is great. Not in a lifetime would I change out the fuel injection for the SU's. (I bought a 240 with SU's). Look at as many as you can, buy the best one you can afford. Money spent now is pennies on the dollar for money to be spent later on. There is also a difference in the cars themselves (280 and 280zx). The zx is a little more plush, and a lot more unattractive.

I have the entire rear suspension out of my 72, as well as the front crossmember and suspension. I am thinking of getting it powder coated and hoping someone might share how expensive this might be. Thanks! (can't edit the spelling error in subject line.........ugh!)

The single strut bracket on my 72 (Otto) was broken when I got the car. The spot welds had come loose. It was a major PITA to get it welded back into place. I drilled out the old welds from the bracket and then spot welded the two on top side. The two on the underside were a major pain, mostly because I was laying upside down in the back of the car trying to get my hood under the thing so I could see to weld. I did manage to get it welded and ground it down so the gasket fit (and painted it so it wouldn't rust). The bigger problem was that the old gasket had been torn when the thing broke free in the first place. After several repair attempts, I bought on from Black Dragon and replaced it. Works like a champ now.

I guess there are two basic points here. One is that tires have gotten freaking expensive. I would have paid more for better IF they had been what I wanted. My choices for the wheels I have (have 3 sets of period correct, the slots, the heavy vane, and the fine vane -30 vane) are all 14 inch. I would have been happier if I would have gotten the same tire brand in a 215/60 or 225/60. I just bought a set of bridgestones for the SEC, 205/60HR16's a couple of months ago from a tire shop quite some distance from my home for over $100 less. There are more options in those tire sizes (15/16/17's). So, when it comes time to put tires on the project car, I will put on 16 Rota's and get a decent tire. The part that chaps my arse is that they charged me $30 for 4 rubber valve stems with a chrome sleeve. These are availabe on ebay for 28 cents each. I have employees that bust their arse for $15 an hour. How can LSTC justify working for two full hours to recieve 4 rubber valve stems that are worth a dollar and twelve cents? I will have a discussion with the manager this morning and they are likely to have the sale reversed and their merchandise back. I have 13 vehicles on the road. I am stubborn. I can find another tire dealer somewhere.

Mount and balance is $100 carry in, plus the shipping. Math isn't there with tire rack. Arne, didn't you mention you spent years in a tire shop? If so, I feel a little better about the tires. Actually, I am more than comfortable with them, just seems like a hell of a lot of money.

I bought Toyo 908 Eclipse from Les Schwab Tire (70,000 mile warranty). They charged me $7.50 for a chrome sleeved rubber valve stem when I specifically asked for a metal stem (slotted aluminum mag wheels). I am feeling just a little bit violated and will be back in the morning. They can have the stems back! Good looking tire (for mini van tires) but nothing else available (some really poor cheapies). Next nearest town is 100 miles.

Looked there. In the end, it would have been the same. Can't get a 215/60/14 unless it is a bfg ta. Wasn't what I wanted. By the time shipping and mounting, even the cheapies were over the top expensive.

Bought a set of 195/70/14's for Otto today. Only size available to fit the car in a 200 mile radius. $472 bucks! Ho Lee Kee Rap! I worked at a tire store for years in the 80's and felt bad when it broke the $200 mark. 7 bucks for a metal valve stem?? Some song and dance about tariffs on Chinese tires. But, it did drive better, all 3/4 of a mile home. The old Aqua Treads were just over 20 years old and had been setting for at least the last 16. Couldn't get the flat spots out and the dry rot in the grooves made me nervous, but $472?? Ugh!

Might be just a junk quality o ring or wrong size. Might have had an edge crushed during installation. Replace with a new one and put some vaseline on it so it slides in easily and allows for good fit. Other than that, one guess is as good as another.

I absolutely agree with esmit about the values. I have a bone stock original (wrong hose clamps on radiator and one braided line missing) 240 that isn't worth what its slightly modified twin is worth, and that car will be worth about 40% of actual investment when it is finished. Nothing kills the value of a Z like installing a v8 in the back yard. To the average guy looking at what they think is period correct, the 2.8 is a direct and accepted replacement. If you don't know the difference, you can't tell the difference. Each of us have made a decision as to how far to modifiy the car and if that mod is reversable. Once you start cutting, fabricating, etc, going back is difficult. If there were only a dozen 240's left on the planet, it would be sacraligious to alter them. There are literally thousands of them out there so it really isn't a big deal.

the only substitute for cubic inches is cubic dollars. "Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go"