JohnnyO

Hagerty quote for 1970 Series 1, $25,000 "agreed" value = $284.00/year. Very nice..... Thanks for reminding me I need insurance in the next couple of weeks.

I think you paid too much. I paid 175 for a gallon of DP74LF and 45 for the reducer.

It is best to stick with a single paint "system" but the ppg epoxy is about as good as it gets for epoxy primer. You should be fine using another primer/sealer on top of it. In my rookie opinnion the bare metal treatment you apply is probably the most important step. Good luck and post some progress pictures. John Edit: be sure to wear a respirator and mix it exactly as the can says. That DP is some strong stuff.

Thanks Bruce. I don't need he man size but in my case I think that I will use the larger ones until they start sticking. What exactly do you measure to get the 1.7 or 2.0? John

I thought I read somewhere that you mount them to the rear of the spoiler. I have searched and cant find the post anywhere.

I was rebuilding my carbs today and removed the needle and seat assembly to replace them and noticed the size of the needle in the assembly I removed was larger in diameter than the replacement. I then noticed a "2.0" engraved on the side of the one I removed. I then blew air through them both and the old one allowed more air through than the new one. I understand that the needle and seat assembly regulates the fuel to the float bowls and cuts it off when the floats rise. My question is this: If I use the new, smaller needles and seats am I going to be starving my carbs of fuel? The old ones are in good shape and open and close perfectly so I could put them back in. Is there a performance gain by using the larger or smaller needle assemblies? Thanks, John

PPG also sells a line call Shop Line which is a step above Omni and only available through Gold PPG Dealers. My painter shot PPG for 25 years and says the Shop Line is far superior to Omni. Dave, have you used Shop Line?

Great Carl. I would like to think that somebody at Too Intense read this thread and decided to make it all better. John

It is my understanding that soda blasting leaves a residue that resists flash rust from forming for a period of time. I suppose in humid/salty climates that would be shorter than arid areas. Something to do with the PH of the baking soda. When ready to prime, just rinse, dry and treat the steel with something like Ospho or Metal Ready. John

I have purchased a few items from z-connection and when you combine purchases and get it all shipped together the shipping is reasonable. I only purchase "Nissan Available" parts from ebay when I need odd ball stuff and don't want to search for part numbers and deal with Courtesyparts.com. Just saves me time and time = money. There are 2 Nissan dealers in my area and they either don't want to deal with me (even with part numbers) or price themselves 40-60% higher than ebay and courtesy. I called for parts last Friday and the guy told me "There's a place in Texas called Courtesy Nissan, you should call them." I laughed and said "Yeah, I know. Thought I would try to keep it local." Good luck Carl. If anything, your experience will cause a sudden decrease in sales for these vendors. I am at the same point as you and have been compiling a list of items to purchase during the next month at specific times so I don't have to lay out 2 grand all at once and don't end up sitting on parts while I do other work. I was actually looking at parts from Too Intense and until I hear your outcome I will not be placing my order. Good luck. John

I've been thinking about buying a soda blasting rig like that. A fairly big investment. I'd be interested in what they charge per hour to see if I could do it as a side job and pay for the rig. Would you be interested in sharing your cost?

Carl, Mine took about 18 months too. Just got it back last week. Looks Great! Looks like geezer will hook you up with a template if needed. John

Thanks Arne. I will go with the -53 being as I have it all blasted and looking pretty. If that one doesn't work well I will drop in the -54. I would assume that points, rotors and condensers are all universal the first few years. Is that correct? John

My car had an electronic ignition when I got it. I am reverting back to a stock ignition. I have yet to track down an early Series 1 dizzy but I do have a -53 and -54 and one without any numbers on it. (not sure why but it is identical to the others except that it is dual points for an auto) Can I run the other distributors in my Series 1 without any tweaking or issues? John

Did you need the Syncrotester too? What is it used for?

Jordan, if you are running round top SU carbs on your 73 and the car has been sitting a while I think it would benefit from a rebuild. I can't guarantee carbs are your problem but it doesn't hurt to rebuild them. Gas tank, fuel pump, filter and lines can also cause problems with your fuel system. You also mentioned wiring problems. Maybe you could elaborate a little on that issue too. Obviously if you aren't getting spark your car won't run. Yes, if you are slightly mechanically inclined and can take things apart and put them back together with instructions you can rebuild your carbs. You do 1 at a time so you have a reference if needed. Bruce Palmer replied to your thread above. He works for ztherapy.com. If he wants to help, you should take advantage of it. Good luck. Let me know if you need anything. John

What suburb are you in? I am in Hudson. Welcome to the forum. I see you posted the same question at zoom. Unfortunately the answer from me is going to be the same. No Z specific shops in the area. Fortunately, you could order the rebuild kit from ztherapy.com and you will get pretty much all the help you need in the kit (Just SU's DVD) and here from members. I think you might be able to get a wiring harness here too. Check out the classifieds. I have a 73 dash harness in a cracked dash right now if that is part of your problem. Let me know. Good luck. John John

Nice work. What battery did you go with? John

Now you just need a 69 and 72 to have a complete set!

Motorman, That 73 looks great but I am partial to the 920 Gold....

ZCurves, No metal flake, just plain old 920 Safari Gold. It has been cloudy and humid here the last 3 days. I will post pics after buffing tomorrow. John

The rubber bushings are still available from Nissan. Rockauto.com has them also. Just order 1 side and that will give you 2 bushings. John

Mike, I specifically asked that question. He told me that it wouldn't hurt or help by sitting out in the sun. He also said he would wait at least 3-4 days, but no more than 6, to have the car sanded and buffed. This means that he will be doing the buffing on Monday or Tuesday. Humidity got really high here today so that will slow curing down but I plan on pushing it out in the sun regardless. I can "smell" when the paint/clear is about cured by the amount of fumes in my garage. The morning I wake up and the fumes are down a bit is the day she goes back. My guy is an old school painter. He refuses to use HVLP. He keeps rebuilding his $600 Devilbis gun. He told me he "baked" the car for 2 hours after clear at about 100 degrees and that if I wanted to speed up curing I could actually take a 5 gallon bucket of ice water and clean towels and give it an ice water bath. Sounded a little strange to me so I ignored the tip. Did you sand and buff yourself?

Mike, When I picked up the car in CA it had a terrible blue metallic paint job on it. I was so happy when I opened the hood and saw gold.

What about Nevada or Arizona? Probably a few hours to the border towns but may be worth the trip. Also, I talked to my PPG supplier and he said hobbyists would still be able to purchase the existing paints after the law kicks in. It is just body shops that have to use water borne.