JohnnyO

Thanks guys. I am going to get them POR'd this week. I have a quart and a half in the garage just waiting to be applied. John

I was thinking I would POR the backs while I track down and wait for the rubber to come in. I am just paranoid about getting it on the chrome. Did you POR all the way up to the outer lip? Lonetreesteve, I have no doubt that they will take care of any problems if I find them, I only wish I lived closer to them to save on shipping.

Posted pictures as promised in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42646-Rear-bumper-back-from-Denver-Bumper&p=367065#post367065 John

My complete rear bumper is done and arrived today. Total cost for 2 corners, center, 2 uprights and 4 bolts is $370 plus $40.00 for return shipping. It cost me $15.00 to ship to them so I will have a total of $425.00 into them plus the cost of new rubbber. Keep in mind that I started off with very straight parts but the chrome was pitted on all the parts except the uprights but I had them redone anyway. The worst area was near the exhaust. It seemed that the exhaust kinda melted the chrome away in that area. The only rust was on the mounting bolt threads. It appears they lightly blasted the rust on the mounting bolts so I should be able to hit them with a little anti-seize and they should be good to go. I was told 2 weeks turn-around but it actually was 1 day shy of 3 weeks which I think is acceptable if the job is done right. Total time out of my posession was 4 weeks exactly. They came back nicely packaged in special bumper paper that was basically brown bag paper with a blue synthetic liner. They came out of the wrapper nice and shiny without a single finger print on them:) I inspected them under incandesant lights in my living room and they appear very nice. The only flaw I found was on one of the chrome mounting nuts. It appears to be flaking in 2 spots. I thought they sold these new with the bumpers so I am a little confused as to why they replated my originals. I am sure they will take care of it if there is actually a problem. I have to say that so far I am very happy with them. Well, enough babbling. Here are some pictures. John

Received the call from Denver Bumper today. My complete rear bumper is done and will be hear on Tuesday. Total cost for 2 corners, center, 2 uprights and 4 bolts is $370 plus $40.00 for return shipping. It cost me $15.00 to ship to them so I will have a total of $425.00 into them plus the cost of new rubbber. I started off with very straight but pitted parts. The only rust was on the mounting bolts. I am curious to see how they handled that. I was told 2 weeks turn-around but it actually was 1 day shy of 3 weeks which I think is acceptable if the job is done right. Does anyone know if the rear over rider rubbers are still available? I have checked with most of the usual suspects and can't seem to find them. Pictures to follow. John

Thanks for the tips guys. I will try to find time this weekend to check out the gland nuts and the front mount.

I was wondering how it was coming along Dan. Those door panels are going to be antiques pretty soon. John

Dave, I have read great things about the r/t mount but am trying to stay stock. I will drop the front diff mount and check to see if it is separated. This is easier than dropping the struts. Arne/Steve, I remember when I filled the strut mounts with oil and tightened the gland nuts that there were a couple threads showing and oil didn't leak out of the top so I assumed the cartridges were snug. But, you never know so I will check them after I check the insulator.

It clunks under heavy acceleration and when I let off the gas after heavy acceleration. It sounds like it is coming from the rear center of the car. I went with the KYBs and the gland nuts were on there pretty tight when I was done. I have checked the strut mount insulator nuts and the actual strut top nut. I would have to remove the springs to check the gland nuts. Not really looking forward to that.

I replaced my rear struts and refreshed my rear suspension in March and since the first test drive I have had a rear clunk. I did not have this clunk prior to replacing the rear struts. I replaced the struts with the rear diff installed but mustache bar removed. Not sure if that matters or not. Since then I have loosened and re-torqued all rear suspension bolts both jacked up and under load, front and rear differential supports and checked the U-Joints on the drive shaft and half-shafts. When I reinstalled everything I did not install a rear anti-sway bar that the PO had installed. I do not think that this could cause the clunk. Please correct me if I am wrong and I will order stabilizer end links for it and install it. Another thing I noticed when removing the mustache bar was that I only had a top stopper. They look like this only $34/pair cheaper through Courtesyparts.com. In place of the bottom stopper was a 3" washer without the ribbed rubber. I don't think that is the problem because it would have existed prior to installing the new struts. Could I have damaged the front diff mount by holding the diff up with a jack for 2 weeks while I blasted and painted the suspension? Could the old Mulhollands have been riding so low that no matter how hard I got on it she would never create enough torque to slam? Grasping at straws here. Any help appreciated. John P.S. Found a great old post with part numbers for replacing Mustache Bar bushings at zcar.com from 2002. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/datsun_240z_early_series_mustache_bar_bushing_644441.0.html

+1 for fusible link. Unplug, clean then replug and try to start.

I would imagine they smell like the previous owner's a$$ On a serious note though. The car looks great so far. I used to live in Tucson and miss seeing all the rust-free old cars with faded paint. Good luck with it.

Don't you mean Alan?

Aren't there any junk yards near by? You are in SoCal, center of the scrap Z universe.

I'd have to agree with what Nissanman said because I have no idea what it means

How did a beautiful piece of American engineering like that make it across the pond? You probably own the only 68 Charger in the UK. Very nice!

Here's a pricing page I found: http://www.metaldipping.com/pricing-package.php Considering how many hours it actually takes to blast and DA sand an entire Z I would say that similar pricing to say a VW ($1500) is fair. Wish they had something like this by me 2 years ago when I stripped my car....

Maybe they will get back into it when the economy turns around. I know I don't have $900 laying around for a new header.

I'd take 2 sets.

Yeah, I thought about buying that Z just for the D caps then part the rest. Still not sure why a 72 would have D caps but who cares at this point. I would guess that it went cheap because it did not come with a title which apparently is not required in Alabama "due to the age of the car". I haven't heard that one before.

Pretty sure he knows where the gas tank is. He did change out his sender last fall. How about some constructive advice? Maybe something like "Run it down to E and then drop the drain plug and see how much is actually in there." or "Run it down to E and then get a clear hose and siphon out what is left into a can. If you get more than a couple of gallons you can stop because you will know your sender is not working right." John

I am trying to figure out if having bumpers fabricated in the U.S. could be cost effective. The first step in making them cost effective would be to get the CAD files for free;). I know that some members have experience with CAD and might be able to produce the files or know someone that does have them. I need these so I can present them to a few fabricators and see what it will cost to get the dies made. Any help would be appreciated. John

I too purchased the Rockauto cable but when it arrived the speedo end was made of plastic and it was almost a foot longer. The original cable was metal on both ends. My original worked fine, it was just a little old looking so I cleaned it a bit and put the new one on the shelf. The MSA cable appears to be plated metal on both ends. Maybe that is why it is priced higher. It seems to be closer to OEM than the Rockauto cables, although my ends were not yellow zinc coated, they were silver zinc'd. John

Not sure about the L28 but it may be the same. There are lift hooks, one at the front passenger side and one at the rear drivers side. They are attached to the head. Here's a thread with some alternative spots. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?7366-Advice-on-lifting-engine&highlight=engine%20removal John

Like they don't screw sellers enough already.... www.datsunclassifieds.com is free, you are already a member and did I mention it was free? Arne, I thought it was. I also have the rear deck mat but am missing the behind the seats and passenger side mats. I guess I should stop using it to protect my carpet. John