JohnnyO

Thanks for the insight Garagegoon. In my case I am just learning how to blast (seems like common sense is the most necessary thing to have) and have not used chemical strippers to strip something as large as a car ever. So it is a learning experience for me all the way around. I would imagine that if not done properly, by an experienced person, chemical strippers could lie in wait if not thoroughly "neutralized" prior to painting.

VERY good point for anybody that may stumble onto this thread. Thanks Arne.

Yes, that's what I figured on your previous advice to me. I hit it with coal slag at 80 psi and took my time. This pressure, combined with some previously used slag, peeled the first layer (orange) off gently and is now gently blasting away the second layer (white). I am about 25% done. Looking at the next few posts I probably could have hit it with stripper or sanded it down but I'm not smart enough to take the easy way out (stripper) and I really wanted it to be painted fresh from bare metal. Thanks for all the tips. I will post pictures when done.

Yes, I found Rustoleum Antique White to be an almost exact match. It is a gloss finish as my original color appeared to be gloss. Thanks for the tip.

UPDATE: I used some pure acetone to pull the cheap enamel off the cream and now have a nice sample to choose the color from. Thanks for the tips everyone. I will post before and after pictures here.

I am going to "peel back" the orange and see if I can get it color matched. I will let you guys know the result. John, I will post pictures but am not sure of the correct media. I would guess that the blades of the fan are made of something like galvanized steel and don't know how fragile that would be. I have coal slag and glass beads. Any recommendations? John

Thanks Arne. That is very similar to what I see when I sand off the orange in the thin areas. I wonder if I could find something similar in a rattle can? Well, I guess I will see if I get another response that has an "exact" color, if not, I will be shopping at 8 tomorrow. Thanks, John

Sorry, I should have been more specific. It is a metal fan from an early series 1. I can clearly see the white-ish paint under the poorly painted orange. I am getting ready to blast and prime this tomorrow and was wondering what color to finish it with. John

The PO had painted the cooling fan in my car competition orange. I know the original color was a shade of white. Does anybody know the exact shade of white? TIA, John

Well it sounds like you are going to take the plunge. I have one recomendation that I dont think I have seen yet in this thread: Spend $25.00 and by Wick Humble's How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car. You can get it from Amazon. One of the first things he says is don't throw anything away until you have the "exact" replacement for it. I have been following this rule for the last 2 months as I "collect" parts to restore my baby. Even then, I find it hard to part with the original parts, it's like throwing out a piece of yourself. He also takes you through the restoration process (minus engine work) step by step. Now the book is dated but so is your vehicle. So, if you can get past the poorly lit photos, some older techniques and some dry humor you will find it an invaluable asset. Then again, if Carl ever writes a book I would ditch the Wick and purchase the Carl..... Just my opinion. John

Thanks. We will keep an eye out for him.

Does it look like this? http://www.zhome.com/History/10thAnniv.htm

I am amazed at the amount of information this site provides. As I move forward with my restoration you guys (and gals if appropriate) bring more "issues" to light than I could have imagined. I am quickly learning that when restoring a 40 year old car that isn't branded Chevy or Ford you run into challenges every step of the way from finding the correct paint color to getting performance tires for a 4.5" rim not to mention getting period correct parts. Thank you all for all your contributions. I hope to be able to help out someday too, until then, I will learn from the masters.

I'll be visiting a seller next weekend who says he has a few sets of wheels. He told me they were "early" 240. I am looking for 01/70 for a date stamp. If I see 73 I will post back.

Thanks Mike. I just happen to have some muratic acid in the garage that I used for concrete cleaning this past summer. I think I will have a go at it tomorrow with a spare lens cover I have sitting around.

Can you explain the stripping process. I would imagine the prep work is key to a quality finish. Thanks, John

The seller that I am meeting next week said the rims have silver on the inside and black on the outside. Does that mean something special or were all rims that color scheme?

Mike, Your not in the Boca area, are you?

I don't think that anyone said Mike is being scammed. It just sounds like a fishy story from the seller. I am skeptical of the the sellers story and would recommend backing away from that deal if it were still active.

Why would someone pay 1200 or more to ship it to California. Search almost any county in CA and you will find plenty of parts cars for sale. As stated earlier, sounds like a scam. John

Thanks Gary. I emailed the seller hoping to "fish" for info before I meet my guy. You never know, they may be stamped 01/70 and I won't need my guy.

Thanks Arne. He claims he has been "hoarding" parts for 29 years and is now parting with them. I will check the dates on the 5.5's and snap some pictures if they are early. Again, any idea of what I should expect to pay?

No Carl, I meant the rims he had. I have not seen a picture yet. Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for. The "optional" aluminum wheels were on my '71 when I bought it back in '81. That car was totaled in 82, about 1 month after a rebuild. Thanks again Carl. Any idea of what I should expect to pay? You make it sound like they may be more common than this guy thinks. I am heading out there to pick up an e31 head (he has 3) and some series 1 latch belts so the trip will be worth it either way but I dont want to overpay for rims, especially when I dont need them for 8 months.

I have been reading past threads and came across a thread the Arne started back in '06 when he bought his wheels and "D" caps. He mentioned the early rims being "skinny" 4.5" rims. Would a 01/70 240 have been sold with these "skinny" rims? Were the wider rims (I'm guessing 6") available as an option in 01/70? Have "D" caps, need wheels to put them on now. (cart before the horse thing. yeah, I know) :stupid: One more question, I have been told by "the" parts guy (literally the only parts guy within 4 hours of the twin cities) that these are the skinny rims. Before I get taken for a ride does anybody know what a set of 4 of these rims would go for in "great" shape with no rust? Just a ballpark figure. TIA, John

You are grossly over estimating my abilities. I think I need to find a recently unemployed machinist in the Twin Cities..... I should send my father in law back to work. He was a machinist for 32 years, just retired in 2003. Now he has no access to the tools. Well thanks for the input Jimmy. I think I will try to find the parts first and then hit up black dragon if all else fails. I have time. I just pulled the motor and tranny on Sunday and have yet to start on tearing down the engine compartment. Plan on having it in the shop for body work and paint in January. I did find a parts source near me and will be driving out to pick up just about everything I need in about 10 days. He had a E31 head with 88,000 on it, 4 rims, series 1 belts in restored condition, metal "datsun" emblems (been looking for these for a while now), a seek/scan radio (working), apron corners and jack/toolkit. A good find! If he has a distributor for me I'll be set. Thanks again.