JohnnyO

just saw them too. I know a few people have been waiting for these.

Cool, post some pics when you can. So, are you in the metro area? There is a small group up here that meets throughout the year and gets together for car shows in the summer. I am in Hudson and keep a small stock pile of parts. Let me know if you need anything. John

If you are in the Cities and want someone to take a look with you let me know. I have had 5 now in varying states of decay and 1 that was worth saving. John

I've added the tab to MikeW's online Z Car Registry. As long as Mike is ok with it we can add new entries to that workbook. I have a backup of the file saved locally for when someone decides to mess it up. Here is the link: http://www.editgrid.com/property/history/show/457212?rev=1263780 John

Here's another series 1 block code: L24 026475 P30 01/71 VIN HLS30-20123 0727L I've added it to the spreadsheet and attached it here. I might have missed it in the thread but does anyone know what the Alpha character at the end of the code means? John

I've dropped this info into a spreadsheet for anyone interested. I was thinking that maybe we could add it as a tab to MikeW's online spreadsheet. Block Date Codes.xls

Yes, after sifting through this thread I was surprised to see that early of a block date also. My block serial number is also low compared to others that were "built" in 01/70. Maybe mine was pulled off the line for one reason or another.

Here is mine: L24 03199 E31 01/70 VIN HLS30-01366 9628A Does this date code translate to June 28 1969?

Here is one of the many by me. Actually, there are 4 in my town of 12000 people and a total of about 15 within 20 miles. Check out the notes on this one: http://pure-gas.org/station?station_id=2752 Can I run that in the Z? Any advantages to it or will it burn up my top end? John

Try downloading the wiring diagram from xenons30.com That should help.

Another bump for Moog and Rock Auto.

I have front and back from a 01/71 car if they will fit. John

Welcome to the club. Lot's of useful info here. Search function works great too. Here's a decent thread about bleeding: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40025&highlight=clutch+bleed John

When I needed floats earlier this year I searched everywhere and only found 1 special order through O'Rielly. The distributor said they are not producing them any longer. If they are the same as the 70 floats you may have a hard time finding them. Good Luck. John

I love it when younger people get hooked on Z cars. Welcome to the forum and good luck with the car. John

Mmmmm. Rally Clock!

Yeah, my wife had that look for almost 2 years. It went away the first time I took her out on a date in the freshly painted, clean, nearly complete Z. I haven't seen that look since September. Good luck on the project.

Could it be the throw out bearing? Had a Mustang with that problem a while ago. I would start with the boot though, it is the cheapest thing to look at and eliminate. John

Are you Art Vandelay?

Vacuum issue? Just guessing.

Time for a stainless steel bumper upgrade. That is probably the only one you will find new. Good luck.

No problem. At least the last post was only 90 days old. I still think we need an award. Maybe post their name in Hot Pink or something hideous. Nothing against newbies but it always seems to be the new people that do it. Just goes to show how much information has been covered on this site. If you need info about a Z it is here and has probably been discussed at least once in the last 10 years. I see you joined in 2004 so technically your not a newbie, just very quiet I guess. John

Nice work!! You must be an engineer. My wife takes up the double side of the garage with her Highlander. She's not "comfortable" parking with a car next to her. I guess if she's not "comfortable" parking next to a car I'm not comfortable parking my Z or F150 next to her. So she gets the tractor with 48" snowblower parked next to her.

But they are OK with you owning a Tacoma and a 4 Runner? I'd like to see that sketch too. I just can't picture it. I am rolling the dice for another shot of nice weather up here in St. Paul. I will drive it on dry days until they salt the roads. Until then my truck gets the driveway, the Z gets the 3rd stall all to itself and I get the heated seats and mirrors to help fight the frost. John

Under normal running conditions your amp meter should always be either on the center line or the plus side. How far to the + side depends on the output of your alternator and what electrical components you have running at the time and your voltage regulator. Alternators should be available without sending in the core. You just pay an extra $30 or so. You could also choose to have yours rebuilt by a reputable electric motor repair shop. I think that service is around $40 U.S. in my area.