JohnnyO

Found it. It is packaged up and ready to go in the mail tomorrow. Let me know when you get it. John

No charge. Just pm the address you want it sent to. Still looking for it.

I have one somewhere. Give me a day to dig it up. John

Sounds like the flasher is shot. I think they are cheap and available from any autoparts shop. In my 70 it is mounted just below the tachometer on the steering column. It is mounted with a Phillips head screw and has 2 wires going into it. Take out the old one and bring it with you to the store. John

No tar mat on #1366 deck. Floors only

I'm guessing that yours were recovered with cloth at some point. Pretty sure 78 was vinyl like the rest of the the earlier z cars.

When you start searching for the leak remember that, just like a leak in your water pipes, the fluid will travel downhill before it drips. So if you are getting drippage around the back of the tranny it may be leaking just past the firewall and traveling down the line until it levels out or hits a line holder. It will definitely be a challenge.

I used a pneumatic impact wrench and a vice. I started off around half pressure and increased it until it broke free.

Yes Pretty sure there are no valves in the middle. Yes, if you can bend lines. Autozone or Napa has the correct lines. Get 2 lengths of BLJ-60 and 1 each of the shorter BLJ-12, BLJ-18 and BLJ-24 lines. You will also need something to connect them in the middle. This should get you close to the proportioning valve. You could also bend the entire line out of 3/16" line but I am not sure you would get it re-installed without dropping the tranny. Autozone has the correct nuts, I believe they are M10. Let me know if you need the part number. Keep in mind this is not a fun job. The tranny and rear diff will be in the way and you will probably have to cut the existing line (after you confirm that it is leaking) to get it out. There are 2 fuel lines on my 70 that also run back on the same route and the brackets hold all 3 together so you will be fighting them when you put them back in too. You might even consider dropping the drive shaft and differential to make it a little easier to get around under there. I would venture to guess that somewhere near the parking brake mount is where it is leaking. There are a couple places for it to rub there. Good luck.

Was almost ready to pull the trigger on Dave's upgrades but I am trying very hard to keep this car stock and as original as possible. Maybe the daily driver will get the upgrades when I find one. John

Yeah, I don't know If I would do that either. Those connections connect the main power to the fuse block from the engine bay. There is not much play there either. On my car, both wires to the fuse block are W/R. From the engine bay one is W/R and the other is W.

OK, so I figured out the problem. After having all the obvious parts tested or replaced I started checking the wiring. Turns out that the W/R wire that runs from the alternator fusible link to the fuse box was not making contact under the dash where the engine bay harness connects to the dash harness. the Female end had broken free of the wire and I could not see this with the large, discolored boot on it. I recrimped the end and my ammeter now shows a good charge. The Nissan alternator on the car right now is 50 amp so I will probably put the 40 amp stock alternator back on and see how that works. Thanks for all the help. John

Pretty sure i used 6 inch c clamps.

MMMMMM! I love to eat freshly killed animals:laugh:

PPG is the way to go for 920 Gold. I recently finished mine and the match was a close as can be expected 40 years later.

I just switched to Allstate for my daily drivers and they do NOT offer agreed value in my state. Other states may vary. Haggerty works as does heacockclassic.com.

Not sure where to go from here. Replaced the Voltage Regulator and still have the same problem. I am beginning to wonder if I have a wiring problem. Is there anything in the charging circuit that could cause a problem like this? I have already checked the fusible link for continuity and made sure my white/red wires are connected under the dash. John

Pretty sure it is original or replacement oem. The car only has 50,000 miles on it and was parked long term for 2 periods during its life. It is adjustable but does appear to be damaged. I did order a replacement. Should be here this afternoon. Thanks for the tips all. I'll let you know if it works out. John

I was stranded on Wednesday night with a weak battery. Fortunately I was only a few miles from home and my wife brought me some cables and we jumped it and made it home. My car is stock with all stock electronics, no add ons. Symptoms: Car started right up when I started my milk run Noticed that the ammeter was hanging below the centerline when I turned on parking lights; was sitting right in the center before. Tested battery when I got home: 9.78 volts (actually MM said -9.78. Not sure whats up with that) Charged battery for 4 hours then tested voltage: 12.87 volts Car started right up, tested voltage with car idling at 1500, all electronics off: 12.42 volts Swapped alternators with a grapefruit alternator I had on the shelf: Same exact results Brought first alternator to get tested: Tests good So, is this my voltage regulator? Can someone give me details on testing the VR? A few weeks ago my ammeter was running about half way up the plus side. I assumed this was correct because the car has a 50 amp alternator in it. The next week I noticed my parking lights and headlights were not working. I chased this for a day or two and realized that I popped all my bulbs. Thought this was weird but didnt know why. So I replaced all the lamps and they have been working fine since but the ammeter does not go above the centerline any longer. I know these issues are hard to chase but any help would be appreciated. John

Thanks Mike. For a minute there I was worried I'd have to hunt for another elusive part.

They can now;)

Any idea of when the change over took place? My radiator support has the small hole for the sheet metal screw but I have the later style. Wondering if they were swapped out at some point. John

What's the difference Mike? Just wondering if my early 70 (which has a lot of the same parts as the 69's) has the rare version. John

Maybe Carl will chime in about that. I think he knew the person that bought the yellow one.

According to the ad, the Reserve is off. $17405.00 with 11 hours to go.