JohnnyO

which makes absolutely no sense if they sold it to you as a 280. Perhaps the last owner bought a 280 without a title and then bought a 240 with a title and switched plates and sold it as a 280 with a title but with 240 #'s.

And whats with the light on that side?

look on the drivers side firewall in the engine bay just above the brake booster. It sounds like you have a 240Z with a 280z engine swap. What does your title say? John

Yeah, I am curious about this one too.

Are they the OEM bake-lite insulators and are they the correct thickness for the early cars? The insulators do clean up great with some 1000 grit and a light buffing so I guess I don't know why you would want to replace them every time you pull them off the manifold. Pretty sure the gaskets come with the most carb rebuild kits out there. Just my 4 cents, 2 cents for the opinion and 2 cents for the new tax the democrats imposed on opinions they don't like....

I live in town with Tim (Cothran) temps here have been 50's in the morning and 60-70 during the day. Funny thing is we went for a drive last Saturday and it didn't act up at all. I think we took about a 30 minute drive with a couple start and stops in the mix. It's got a mind of its' own.

I believe rockauto.com has them too. In house is probably all you will find. You might try zbarn.com or dannysdatsuns.com. They might not be rebuilt but if they tell you they are good you can bank on it.

Would you return it unharmed? John

I'd take it on if it were closer to me. My wife would probably leave me though. Anybody want to chip in for shipping?

Serious orange peel too.

I'm glad I don't live in California. At those prices I could buy one every payday and still be able to pay the bills and fix them up. I could have 26 new Z's a year! Looks like it's worth getting though. We have a 48 hour rule up here. If you buy something substantial and leave it in plain sight (i.e., don't cover it up, park it behind the garage or across the street) and the significant other doesn't notice for 48 hours they can't complain. But be careful, it works both ways and diamond ear rings and $1200 purses are harder to notice than a car or bike.

It is not the car I was looking at last fall. I might get that one soon, also. I am meeting the owner at a car/air show called Wings and Wheels and will try to "persuade" him into selling it to me. That was a 5/70 car and it had SS radial but the tub was rusty and the tire picked a little of the rust color up along with the rim. A lot of the important little pieces were missing on that car so I was not really too enthused about getting it. He wanted 800 for it. I know that I would not restore it, (it is too far gone) and I don't think there are enough parts there to recoup my cost. I might give him 300 for it.

Mike, I am pretty sure on the glass and positive on the radial but I consider you to be an expert so you probably are correct. I am really hoping the glass is clear. I have a clear windshield in my car that has some sandblasting and 2 chips. My rear glass is clear without defroster lines but that is in good shape. I have some 73 quarter windows and they have a definite green tint to them. I could not deciper a tint at all in any of the glass on this car but it was a little cloudy today. If 3 of my 4 were 69's I think I could explain to my wife the importance of having 4, but when you pick up a newer one without as much value as the one you already have it is hard to convince her. I really wish I would have brought my camera to get pictures of the parts.

That's the problem Gary. I already found a show stopper. It's me. I'm too much of a perfectionist to just get it running. I know it will cost me at least 12 grand to do it right and the car is realistically only worth 8-10 in great shape but I really hate to see these cars parted and scrapped. So that is my dilemma.

I bought another 240 today. It is pretty much original and numbers matching. I really cannot find anything that is after market exept maybe the bumpers. They both have over riders on them. Not sure if this was normal for 71 cars. I did find evidence of body work on the passenger quarter panel. Just a little paint flaking off but saw the original color under that so it must have been repainted. The car is a 01/71 production Z and was titled in California for the first 19 years then in Montana for the last year. It has been sitting since 91. The seats are gone from the vehicle but the rest is there in its original glory. Rust: It has some wheel well/arch cancer on the drivers side, floor boards are good, drivers floor support needs further inspection, Rear sill is great, battery tray looks good on top and feels good underneath and did not flex at all when I pulled on it, tire tub looks rust free from the top. Glass: All original, non-tinted glass. No cracks or chips. Vertical defrost lines. All window trim is in excellent shape, no dings that I could find. Hard to find/Expensive parts: E31 head, ash tray, seek scan am radio, original pointed antenna, hoodless map light housing, original bridgestone superspeed radial spare (appears unused!), grapefruit alternator, A/C unit and controls, original dizzy and plug wires, heater control panel in good shape, center console is in better shape than my current console, original exhaust system, 3 screw SUs, Series 1 guages, original finned drums, original slotted rotors, Series 1 dash for a core (3 large cracks), unmelted long pigtail fuse block and lid, series 1 fuel door, all badges except the hood badge are present and in pretty good shape, etc. I am not sure if I am going to fix this one or part it. The guy I bought it from new what he had so I paid a little too much for it in my mind but these cars are hard to find in the upper mid west so I jumped on it because of originality. I might throw tires on it, put seats in it (if I can find some up here) and try to get it running then sell it as a whole car. I negotiated delivery into the price. It is about 130 miles from my house. It should be delivered in 2 weeks. Here are a few pictures that the seller sent me. I forgot my camera so I didn't get any shots today. My wife hates me right about now.

Their is no difference between the OEM and the brake line part number mentioned above (available at NAPA only in my neck of the woods) aside from the fact that you have to bend it. Even the nut color is correct. FWIW, John

I just restored the on-line spreadsheet to 8/29/10. This was the first correct version I could find in the history. If you have made changes recently you might want to make sure they are in there. You can save a copy for yourself by clicking on File>Export As> (choose your format here. I chose .xls because I have excel installed but you could choose .csv and open it in notepad.) John

Wishing all of you in NZ the best. Glad to hear that there were no casualties. John

If it runs and you have no power I would check to make sure your exhaust is not restricted by a faulty catalytic converter. Had this happen and there was too much back pressure. Took forever to get to highway speeds and would barely go up a hill. If I remember correctly it did smoke a bit too.

They came off a 73 if that matters to you.

I just put new lamps in and if I remember correctly they had a little bump in the glass that sat in a notch in the back plate. John

I've got the 2 valance sockets with wires and 3 prong connectors. One is pretty much perfect the other needs a little cleaning. My only tail light sockets have already been cut up. If you want the valance sockets let me know. John

Let me go check.

Are you just looking for the sockets or do you need the wiring too?

What page of the Haines manual. I don't remember reading that.