JohnnyO

That's what I am thinking Mike. I will try to get pictures of the differences up tonight. I forgot my son had T-Ball last night so I did not have time. John

Let me know if you need the center valance. I have one pulled off of a 73 that is in nice shape. I also have a cowl a couple interior and engine parts from the same 73 if you need them. I would go with the one piece fiber glass though if it wasn't a show car. John

Be sure to save those rubber strips that are attached to the top of each front side. They can be cleaned and reused. Also, run to Home Depot and pick up some neoprene insulating strips about 1/4" - 5/8" thick and 3/4" wide with the self stick on one side for the fender supports and waterproofing just in front of and behind the cowl drain area. Gonna look nice! John

Thanks motorman7. That is what I thought. I have springs off of a 72 fuel door that look identical in fit and function. I will try them. Bonzi, I have the same holes and indents that is why I questioned it. I wondered if maybe the very early cars did not have them though because they were not ready for production. On my 72 fuel door there is a plate spot welded into place to hold the spring to the hinge. On my 70 there is no plate and it does not appear that there was ever one spot welded there. I will try to get pictures up after dinner tonight. John

My fuel door does not have a spring on it. Did early series 1 fuels doors have a spring? Thanks in advance. John

So do all the girls I've dated;) John P.S. Who's the guy that's almost grabbing the Asian girl's breast?

I can't really tell but are yours the same as mine? What exactly does the enkie stamp look like? John

What brand are yours? These look like enkei knock offs to me and I can't find a manufacturers stamp. I am probably going to keep these until I find 4 11/69 rims and "D" caps. What brand tires are you running? Mine are Michelin MXL Radial X 195/70R14. Brand new but cracked on the side wall from sitting for 20 years. I've included a better picture so you can see if they really match. John

920 Gold (Safari Gold). The same color as in the wells and jambs. That was the color when it was new and I love it. I took it down to bare metal and my painter painted the interior, engine bay, jams and wells prior to blocking so that if I damaged anything while installing the engine he could fix it easily.

Here's how she looked in September of 2008.

Well, my body shop just finished blocking and priming my Z. Looks pretty good, he had one sag that he will cleanup when he scuffs it. I can't wait to get this back together and start driving it!

Carl, That's a tough one. I know there is a guy up here that rents his trailers on craigslist or you can pay him to haul for you. You might get lucky that way. Be sure to search both sides of the trip (Lex and Indy) Good luck. John

I know what you mean. That's why I went to Cali to get mine. Cost me a grand in fuel but it saved me 10 grand in rust repair.

There are a couple short pigtail fuse blocks for sale in our classified section right now. I am pretty sure one of them is mine. ;-)

Does the hooker actually come with the car?

So how did you raise it up?

I know what you mean. I see seats, trim, some glass, early fuel door, side emblems, some interior panels, steering column, power antenna motor and maybe some early fresh air plastic in the front quarters. One mans trash.......

You rock! I searched and couldn't find it. John

Rear quarters and spare tire tub look great. If you are in need you should check this out. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1724090801.html

The ebay ad tells me that if I needed a set I should visit www.courtesyparts.com to get their phone number and order a set. Pretty sure they would be able to find the part number. Hint, hint... John

The 240 was my first car. Got totaled after about a year. I have been chasing the thrill of that ride ever since. About a month left to go before I feel the thrill again. Going to paint shop Monday morning...

Get some Ospho on that steel before she flashes on you. Keep up the good work. John

I read somewhere that a cheap pump sprayer from Home Depot will do the job if you can get the wand in the cavity. POR has a very low viscosity so it flows right out of the nozzle. I would adjust the nozzle so it is spraying in a cone shape, insert as far as you can, squeeze the trigger and slowly remove the wand. Repeat as necessary. Don't forget to use Ospho or Metal Ready first. Definately helps with adhesion and wipe up any drips that find their way out immediately and often or you will be grinding. If you haven't purchased it yet find a body shop supply company in your area. It will save you about 20 bucks in shipping costs. Great stuff by the way. John

Check out Tabco for body panels. They sell the rear inner and outer for the S30 series. They are probably the best priced out there because they manufacture their own panels and they fit well. It is my understanding that they produce some of the panels other Z sites sell. The only problem is that they never update their site so the prices are from about 1999. Call for correct pricing. Here's the link: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/ John

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