JohnnyO

What year do you have?

Found this while trolling CL tonight. Not sure if anyone is interested. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/pts/1662792468.html John

Welcome to the forum. If you have questions this is the place to get them answered. You're not related to this guy, are you? http://unrealitymag.com/index.php/2009/09/24/a-blast-from-the-past-10-hilarious-super-dave-osborne-stunts/ John

OniZ, The stock line should be 5/16. There is also 1/4 and 3/16 that run to the tank and reclaimation unit. It sounds like your system might be modified a bit so I am not sure if you will have all these but I would imagine that your tank should still be vented to prevent pressure build up. It might help to take a look at the stock setup for your year and see how thinks should be routed and maybe identify something missing. Here is a link to the some FSM's if you dont have one. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html John

webdawg1, that's brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? Oh wait, I did. I have 2 standard flaring kits, one for double 45's and one for bubbles. If you looked at the link and watched the video (or owned one) you would know why I asked the question. This one seems effortless and wanted to know if it really is that simple to use and if it doesn't produce bad flares. I am considering this because I am replacing all the hard lines in my car and I need to make over 30 flares. This will take me all of about 4 hours just for flares. If I can pay $200 bucks and be done in less than an hour I will do it. Then I will sell it on ebay for $150. I just want to know if it actually does what they say and as good as they say it does.

Wondering if anyone has the Eastwood Professional Flaring tool. http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/2834/ Wondering if it works as easily as they say and show. Pretty spendy, only need it for one job. Trying to justify the cost. John

My point exactly. Do what you have to do to get the color you want and love the hell out of it;) The problem with the spectrum gun is that you can shoot the same area 3 times and get 3 different results but it sounds like you ended up with the color you wanted just as I did and Terry did before me.

I have been going through the whole 920 gold paint questioning thing for about 4 months now. My personal opinions and some arguable facts are as follows: PPG was Nissans choice for color match for the Zstore program - Arguable fact I think the Single Stage matches more accurately - Opinion I had 7 variants of 920 gold mixed by my PPG shop using parts from both the 23576 formula for PPG and a Prophet gun formula in both SS and B/C. None came as close to the original paint as the Single Stage 23576 formula - Opinion Even though I had 40 year old paint from under the rear strut vinyl that had never, and I mean never, seen sunlight I know it was not the same color as the day it left the factory - Arguable fact You will not get the correct color depth without applying multiple coats. My samples did not get to the correct color depth until after the 5th coat using PPG pro line. I was told not to buy the better paint because the color would not come out correct. I had my painter put 6 coats on to be sure I had even coverage. - Arguable Fact You must prep the car correctly. DP epoxy primer, Light Grey Primer Surfacer and then the top coats. - Fact (no arguing that one) I did end up painting the underside, inside wheel wells and engine bay with Single Stage. I did the topside with Base/Clear. The colors are so close that you cannot notice the difference in the engine bay, even where the fenders meet the wheel well. Again, this is because of the color depth with multiple coats. - Arguable Fact I love the color it turned out - Opinion and Fact (you can't argue that one with me) Either way you choose, just be sure you get enough paint on the car. Go shoot some new samples with the 23576 mixture from ppg. Shoot some with 3 coats then shoot some with 5 and 7 coats. Compare them in different light. You will be amazed how different they look. Good luck and post some pics when she's getting done. John

Most differences between and 71/72 were under the hood. What makes you think it looks like a 72? Mark, What does the title say? 04/71 would most likely have been sold in the 71 model year. The link below has an unformal registry for Z cars. It was set up by a member here and clearly shows that all 04/71 cars were titled as 71. Go ahead and put your car in there when you have time. http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry John P.S. Nice find, where did you find it?

I haven't done it that way but I think I would put them under so the old steel would not come into contact with as much water in the future. Asthetically, it would hide the rotted floor and your carpet would cover the bad pans. I would follow the installation with a good coating of por-15 on the inside. You also could coat the outside of the old pan prior to welding with por to help discourage them from rusting more. Good luck.

Cut out the old and weld in the new. Chances are you dont have anything left to weld to anyway. Welcome to the club.

Nice find Dave. I especially like the cameras looking over the driveway. I hope they are only to protect the Z's.....

That would be great. I have been talking to injection molding companies here in Minneapolis and they would like a cad drawing of the item to give me a quote.

I think you mean Delrin. It might be too brittle though. The originals were made from Nylon I believe and I would be interested in acquiring a pair if we could get them made out of a more flexible plastic. I might even be willing to help pay for production if it is reasonable and correct. You probably got yours from Mike B. I have been in contact with him recently and unfortunately he does not make and sell them any longer. He had reports that a few had broken and doesn't have the molds any longer. Mike sent me the below link. http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=4665 This guy is selling them too. I am also interested in reproducing seat guards and would like to guage interest in that for a group buy or maybe a vendor exclusive for MSA or Classic Datsun. I currently only have the passenger side so I would be interested in finding a drivers side sample in good enough shape to produce a usable mold. I would be interested in the 3d cad model too if you were willing to give a copy of it up! John

We love this stuff. Keep it coming.

Great article. Thanks for posting the link.

Could it be the sound of the dead cylinder not firing?

You've got about 2 months. Something always breaks within 2 months....

It's only 5% but might help cover shipping. Good til May 16th. Says to share it so here it is. Discount on RockAuto Parts! Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you. Your discount code is: 29192731278239 Using Your Discount Code Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total. Please note: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices. There's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks. This discount code expires on May 16, 2010; so don't wait! www.RockAuto.com service@rockauto.com 1-866-ROCKAUTO (1-866-762-5288) (608) 661-1376 Fax: (608) 836-5694 Hope it helps. John

Here's some luck. I just got a 5% discount from Rockauto.com. It clearly says to share it with anybody I know so here it is: Discount on RockAuto Parts! Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you. Your discount code is: 29192731278239 Using Your Discount Code Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total. Please note: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices. There's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks. This discount code expires on May 16, 2010; so don't wait! Thanks again for buying your auto parts at RockAuto! Tom Taylor VP Marketing www.RockAuto.com service@rockauto.com 1-866-ROCKAUTO (1-866-762-5288) (608) 661-1376 Fax: (608) 836-5694

I've heard he has a lot on his plate. Thanks Arne. Anybody have a bad shift knob that I can salvage the shift pattern from?

Talk about opening a can of worms. Good luck buddy. John

WARNING: Thread Hijack in Progress During the blasting of my tranny I damaged the Shift Pattern Insert. Does anybody sell just the shift pattern? Sorry for the hijack. Thanks, John

What did you end up doing? Did MSA replace them or did you remove material as Ron suggested?

Spitz, The outer tie rods are different (reversed) because the inners are identical. So even though the inners are flipped left to right, the outer tie rods will spin on the same direction. I just did mine last weekend and if I remember correctly they both spin on towards the firewall. To verify this, spin the nut that locks the outer tie rods on and you will see what I mean. Also, the microfiche shows one part for both sides: Socket-Side Rod Inner P/N 48528-E6000 QTY=2 Section 102, Key No. 10 The microfiche doesn't show any supersession so I would imagine these are good through at least 7/73. Hope that helps. John P.S. I had to read my explanation 3 times to be sure it makes sense and I think it does. Let me know if you need me to break it down a little more.