JohnnyO

Don't know if it can be fixed but the inserts for the 240 are still available. Maybe the 280 insert is too. I think they were fairly cheap too, maybe $30 bucks if I remember correctly. There are a bunch of used ones on ebay right now for about 15 bucks if interested. http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=280z+glove+box&_sacat=0&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=240z+glove+box&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 Good luck John

Not possible...

Bruce, What do you use when you refurb air boxes? John

Now if we could only find replacement gaskets for the box > lid seal....

Makes me wonder weather plain old Ajax with bleach or some of that soft abrasive bathroom cleaner with bleach would work just as effectively and give you the benefit of whitening from bleach. I think it was called SoftScrub.

The 260 and 280 sheets from the backup were worse than the one we have so I deleted them. Please correct your 260.280 data on the old sheets please. The 240 sheet is missing about 60 lines of data. I will do a compare to the user names and vins and see if I can come up with a list of missing users. John

Ok. I have imported the data from July 09 (thanks Mikes Z for the data and MikeB for pointing me to it.) and created new sheets with that data. The old sheets are still there. Please do not enter any data on the old sheets. I will try to get back in there this week sometime and copy the highlighted data that people have corrected in the last week. I think the 280Z data may have to be corrected still but the 240 and 260 data looks usable. Thanks for everybodies help. John

Wish I had this link yesterday. I put the front cupped washers on backwards. Looks like I will be spending another 3 hours in the garage today....

Mike, Great news. Can you give me the url to your blog? I would like to copy and paste it into a csv file then get the pages up on mikew's site. John

I have an early Series 1 and they are both the same. See pictures below. Perhaps 1 of yours was replaced.

I was thinking the same thing but didn't want to do it without Mikes permission. It looks like it can be exported and I think I will start doing that whenever I log in. This way we will have a backup somewhere. I will export the existing data into a csv file and save it. Maybe Mike will catch this post and give us the ok to delete.

Arne had a good idea, he highlighted the corrected info. This will help us keep track of the updated info. Thanks

Yes, and my wife brings up the fact that if it wasn't for the Z we could be on the beach in Hawaii right now. She just doesn't get it.....:stupid: Thanks again. P.S. The 5 grand did not include ANY materials except sand paper and sweat. I even bought the lint free towels and wax and grease remover. Add all my paint and supplies in and I am well over $6500. Still a deal for a 30 year veteran.

Absolutely. He already told me that for 5 grand you don't get free touch-ups if it's not his fault. He does nice work and apparently quoted me too low, at least that's what he has eluded to. But he is honoring his quote and doing a great job so far. Yes, the underside of the hood and hatch, inside of doors, engine bay wheel wells, underside and inside of the car have been painted. It just needs the outer base/clear coats and buffing at this point. I can't wait and don't want to hold him up. I think that you seem to agree with me. I should put the car together without weatherstrip and strikers and bring it back to him to let him finish it his way. Thanks Ron. John

Actually, when he's done spending my money in Hawaii he will be the one painting the rest of the body;)

Thanks for the replies. He wanted the engine in so that I wouldn't ding the body up after it was painted. I was thinking that it would be a heck of a lot easier to get the brake and fuel lines in before the engine, tranny and rear diff. He mentioned using some type of seam bead that gets closed in all the hood, hatch and door cracks. He described it as a foam bead strip. I think he said it is made by 3M.

Not sure if you can tell from my avatar, but the entire car was stripped to bare metal and the interior, engine bay, wheel wells, window recesses and under side have all been painted already. I've attached some pictures to give you an idea of where I am at. I guess I am just wondering what a body shop would expect when bringing it back in. My painter told me to drop in the engine, restore the suspension and put the body back together. I just dont know what "Put the body back together" includes and he is now in Hawaii for the next 3 weeks and cant be reached. Thanks, John

I am wondering what to do next. My car is back from the body shop, it has been jambed and I am in the process of dropping the engine back in and putting the doors, hatch and hood back on. I wonder what needs to be done before it goes back to get the top coat. Do I install my weatherstrip and seals now or do I wait until after it comes back with the top coat? Should I install the brake lines and fuel lines? What about door/hood/hatch latches? My paint guy is out of town for 3 weeks and I want to have the car ready when he gets back. Thanks, John

Recycling at its best. OldHemi: Just wanted to get some synthetic Mobile 1 in there instead of the petroleum based crap it came with. I will probably settle the front end in then pump out the old in a month or two. Thanks, John

I agree, if it was part of this site they would need to be logged in to modify it and the admins would have a record of that. I wonder if the hosting company used for this site includes the mysql package for database management. Might be able to take advantage of that if it is.

I agree with Bonzi Lon. Mine took about 3 ounces to fill just about an inch below gland nut. Also used some anti-sieze on that there gland nut. Won't need to pay to remove it next time...

Welcome to the club. I saw your other post, unfortunately I don't know where to tell you to start. I am sure someone will chime in. Enjoy your dream. John

OK, so I created a database and it works good but it requires everyone to log in. Not a real good solution. I will keep trying to figure something out. In the meantime if everyone corrects their info I will see about importing it later. John

I found a free online database. Let me set something up and maybe we can work from that. MikeW, I would still like you to be in control of it if you are interested. Let me know. John

Well, according to the spec list at rockauto.com the 14mm ball joints they sell are for the following vehicles: NISSAN 200SX (1977 - 1979) NISSAN 240Z (1970 - 1973) NISSAN 260Z 1974 NISSAN 260Z 2+2 1974 NISSAN 280Z (1975 - 1978) NISSAN 280Z 2+2 (1975 - 1978) I would say you got the wrong ball joints all together or like I said earlier someone changed out the control arms. Pretty simple.