JohnnyO

I feel violated. Doesn't Obama have a bailout program for people that feel violated?

I read this post quickly and looked at his location. Now that I know it is his car I really think he was just trying to get attention to his ebay ad. With that said, I would never pay 4 grand for non-stock, modified 260. You can get a decent 240 for what he is asking. He should have asked "what do you think about my car/ad?" Just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.

Looks very straight for a 36 year old car. I would see if someone in Texas can go look at it for you. I would ask for some pictures of the battery tray area, floor pans from inside the vehicle, spare tire drum, vin plates, close ups of dog legs and inside rear wells, I would also question why there is no emblem on the rear deck. Also, the foot pedals are a good sign of wear on a car. If they look well worn I would guess that it might have a few more miles on it than 57K, if they look relatively new I would guess the mileage might be correct. As the seller states the 260 was limited to 1 year of production but the number of people collecting 260's is much less than the number collecting 240's. Keep that in mind when bidding on the car. Supply and demand, not as much supply for this one but also not as much demand. Good luck. John

What years had aluminum drums? Does anyone have pictures of original drums? John

Why don't you pack up your tools and head to Iowa? Here's the directions: http://www.mapquest.com/maps?1c=Springfield&1s=OR&1y=US&1l=44.046398&1g=-123.020798&1v=CITY&2c=Moscow&2s=ID&2y=US&2l=46.732498&2g=-116.999199&2v=CITY Kidd could really use your help!

Doesnt specify 11mm or 14 mm on ball joints. I would guess 14 but you never know.

Check with ztherapy.com. I think they rebuild airboxes. Welcome to the club. John

Well, if you ever take a cruise out to the Twin Cities let me know. John

I'm only guessing here but I would say his reserve is somewhere around 10 grand based on the fact that he quoted the NADA website about a 100 point vehicle and they put the middle value at 11 grand. Just my thoughts. I wish I had the garage space right now.

Why not just buy new patch panels from Tabco and weld them in? http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm John PS What part of Wisconsin are you in? I'm in Hudson.

Thanks for the ad. I guess I am glad I went with PPG, not that I had a choice. All the local supply houses only carry PPG these days and it is getting harder and harder to get paint mailed. Yes, Safari Gold is what everyone here is calling it. But for all that might be shopping the PPG paints, the color you get will be called Nissan Gold. This is what comes on the label printed by the supply house when you pick up your paint. John

I went with the original configuration. Red Oxide epoxy primer over light grey sealer then the top coat. My paint guy had a sample of the original paint which has definately changed in 40 years but it took him 8-10 light coats to get the depth of the color in the original sample. You can tell from the thread that people have been trying to match this color and "that's about the closest you can ask for" seems to be the common answer. Like I said, after going with 3 or 4 Prophet gun samples from different areas I decided that the closest match was the PPG ShopLine 23576 in both single stage (wheel wells, under carraige and engine bay) and base/clear for the outer shell and jambs. When you get to paint and have questions let me know. John

Cool, they must have welded series 2 skins on while they were available. And yes, I was talking about the airdam. It is a matter of preference like Arne says. I prefer the air dam look (I always called them front spoilers as a kid and I guess it stuck). I think it makes the front end look beefier. I am going to buy one for mine. I am not sure whether or not to paint it body color or leave it with the graphite look. I have the valance and corners ready to bolt on but will just store them for when I show/sell the car. What's your opinion on not painting the airdam? Is it designed to be left unpainted? I found the xenon airdam online for $209 plus shipping but they wanted $179 for shipping without asking for my zip code! Seems to me that they are looking to make $100 on the shipping. Where did you get yours and, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay? John

! When I was in high school a buddy of mine had this installed in his mustang. His parents had it installed after he backed into his second vehicle in the high school parking lot. The dude wore coke bottle glasses and drove a 4 cylinder mustang. Worst driver I ever met. Growing up in South Florida I always thought they were for old people. John

Did you check the firewall engraving to compare the vin # to the plates on the door and the engine bay? The vin is engraved just above the master vac on the drivers side firewall. Looks good by the way, I had a spoiler like that on mine when purchased but it was cracked so I ditched it. I like those alot more than the bre style. They seem to complete the front end! John

I ended up editing my post. I found another thread where he says the PO had changed the hatch and pillar emblems "to look like a series 2". It could have been in an accident too and the PO didnt tell/know. Anything is possible after 40 years, we all know that. John

Thanks for the reply, I have been eyeing that thing for a while now.

Welcome to the board.

Thanks Dan and John. Like I said, I will tackle this tomorrow on my day off (Government worker!) I did find another area in the bay that was a little thin and I might just mask off that entire area after I sand down the runs and give the whole area a couple coats after hitting it with 600 grit. I do have the remainder of the paint, hardener and reducer which is more than enough to do the job right. I will let everyone know how it turns out. John

They do look very nice.. How long do they soak? Is this the kit: http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm John

I will be working on this tomorrow. The paint is now about 4 weeks old so I gather I should be safe to sand and try the razor method mentioned above. The area is in the engine bay on the fender well where the brake booster and clutch slave attach so it is not very visible after assembly but I want it right. The paint is single stage. I will scuff the entire area with 600 and repaint when I get the runs out. I will let you know how it goes. John

My completely stripped shell to 6 weeks to primer and jammed, inside completely painted with new floor support rails welded in. I was at the shop every other day to check on progress and pointed out a few flaws in his work that required a redo. I have the shell at home now to install the engine and put it back together. After that it will be another week or so to do some more blocking (noticed a few flaws) and topcoat. I would say that if a shop had to do it all it could take upwards of 3 months to do a very straight car correctly and quickly.

I am always amazed when these low vin # cars show up. Regardless of condition, after 40 years to find one that just about pre-dates all others is just amazing. Nice find and as Sailor Bob said, Pictures please. John

I really liked the way the Tower paint covered. I purchased a 6 pack of cans to paint my engine and parts and I think it looks great. I believe they referred to it as Dusty Blue. How do you think the color compared to the original you may have found on your cars and seen at shows? It matched pretty good to the 40 year old paint I found on mine. John

I've seen block paint from Les and from Tower Paint and they both look "similar" to your picture. John