JohnnyO

Unkle, Be careful, if it wasn't for that arsenal we own sitting directly west of you there's a good chance you'd be speaking Russian right now...

Jim, Thanks, that answers most of my questions. Appreciate the help all. John

I was under that impression somewhat. I guess I assumed they might need a light skim coat but would generally be ready to go. Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and finish stripping mine then see where they are at.

Arne, looking at the hi-res pics of those fenders reveals a pretty nasty crease at the top of the left fender where it meets the cowl and door.

During stripping I found some filler on the top of each fender just in front of the inspection lids. They also had a thin layer of skim coating all around. I am really trying to keep the thick filler off of my resto. I know that I would be a heck of a lot more careful than the PO was knowing they are flexible and after paying $700 for them.

Caught that. Thanks Arne.

I saw these a few weeks ago. He doesn't want to have to ship them and they would need a little work from the body guy. Better than nothing I guess.

Mine are actually in pretty good shape for being 39 years old. No rust, just 39 years of leaning on them has the metal pretty flexible. Was hoping to install new ones and sell or store the original pair. My body guy said that it would be about 5 hours each fender and after I did the math it would only cost me about 100 bucks extra to go new. I would still like my questions answered if anybody can help.

Dont tell me that.

I am pretty sure that new fenders are available through Nissan and am planning on purchasing a pair. I guess I am wondering if they are an "exact" fit and replacement for a series 1 car. I am wondering about the bolt holes lining up, the inspection lid latches being the same, the headlights bolting in properly and the emblem holes lining up. Part numbers would be a bonus;) TIA, John

Almost looks like the tow truck operator tells him to release the brake. Either way, sucks to be him.

The reason I am asking because I found a rusted out 72 for sale and after going to look at it I noticed that it had a series 1 hatch with vertical defrost lines and the hood looked "different". I just couldn't figure out what the difference was. If I remember correctly it did not have the gusset or the holes as described in 26th's thread. Geezer, every time I search this site I get way too many hits. I don't think the search engine understands "quoting" when searching. If it did it would only return results with my exact request in it. I don't think it is doing that. Either way, it is great that we have people like you to assist us "search challenged" people. Thanks again. John

Exactly the thread I was looking for. Some day you'll have to teach me how to search. Much Thanks. John

I know there is a thread here that has the details of the correct hoods. I just can't find it and I am giving up. Any help? TIA John

Yep, caught that in your post. Well thanks all. I made an offer on the heap of crap this guy has just to get a few parts I want. If I get it most will end up in the recycling pile due to rust thru but I will salvage what I can and will probably be listing both sets of wheels. Appreciate the help. John

I think that the "yellow zinc" (that is so readily available in the US due to EPA restrictions regarding cad plating chemicals) gives more of a gold look that traditional cadmium plating. I am about to send out some engine bay parts and would love to see the outdoor pictures. They may help me decide whether my parts go to Canada or to a local shop. John

What year? I have 1 off of a 73 that just needs stripping and paint. It's in pretty decent shape for a daily driver.

Thanks for the help guys. I found a 72 that was in "Great" shape according to the owner. I thought I would take a look at it. Turns out it is a complete rust bucket. All 4 corners, the valance, floor boards and frame rails and fire wall by battery tray. Oddly enough the battery tray looks like only surface rust but the firewall surrounding it has holes in it. The only thing that didnt have rust was the hatch but that was replaced with a series 1 hatch with vertical defrost lines. Once I started pointing this out to the owner he quickly dropped is price to $500 for the car and a ton of parts. 2 extra hatches, 2 front quarters, extra set of 3 screw SU's, 2 gas tanks (1 looks almost new), a front spoiler, a crack free 72 dash, 2 am/fm hitachis, spare red interior panels, 2 extra doors, a lot of glass, an extra set of rims, etc. The car had factory a/c. So I started looking at what he had to see if I could get my money back by parting it out and taking the parts I wanted. I checked out the rims on the car and noticed the center caps said "Carrol Shelby Wheels" or something like that. Weird thing is that I dont recall seeing the common Cobra image on the center caps. They were NOT Libre's. They look more like a turbine with a lot of spokes coming all the way to the center cap. He also has a second set of rims with the car that looks like post 4 above. Maybe the center caps are from the extra set of wheels. He also has an original, in the boxes, set of IMSA Rear Flares for sale. He bought them in the late 70's or early 80's and they just sat. He says they are different than the ones available now because they come up higher on the rear quarter, just below the badges. I might try to get him to throw those in to sweeten the deal. I was really hoping the car would be a runner but it looks like parts only and I want to be able to sell some parts to get my money back and I think the wheels are the best shot. If he takes my offer I will post some pictures of the wheels to close out this thread. Thanks again.

any help appreciated.

I love the beer sitting on the table in the last video. Garage warrior!

Thanks Arne. I will give it a go this weekend. Jim, if I dont like the results I may take you up on your offer. Thanks again, John

Arne, I plan to rewire with my existing long pigtail. With that said, is the orientation of the wiring the same on both blocks? John

The mounting holes appeared the same at first glance. I will have to look again tonight. John

I just picked up a 73 for parts. Kinda hit the jackpot. At some point in its life it threw the timing chain and the PO replaced the e88 head with an e31:D and I also ended up with a complete front clip, only surface rust and a grapefruit alternator!!!! Plus some other parts that I will probably sell to recoupe the $200.00 I got into the parts car. While stripping I found a perfect, un-melted fuse block mounted in the typical spot. I removed it with the pig tail in tact and started looking at my series 1 fuse block. I noticed that one of the fuse contacts on my series 1 fuse block was melted and the fuse didnt quite sit firmly in it. My question is this: They look identical, are they interchangable? Thanks, John

Steve, I emailed them through their site 2 times in a week and never got a response. Did you call them to place your order or did you just order over the web? Did you email them first? I was just checking to see if they were available. You seem to have gotten the best exchange rate ever. Good job!