maximumNVH

My '72 doesn't have any of the 3 screws/fasteners for the B pillar trim. I recently found a pair of coat hooks. What type and size of screw should I use for them? It looks like the middle screw uses a plastic washer and screw (type and size?). For the bottom hole, are the seat belt clips available anywhere? What type and size of screw fits this hole? Thanks!

I have asked him for shipping costs on a couple of items and was shocked at what he wanted. It's too bad he's so hung up on overcharging on shipping because he has a lot of good parts. Most of his eBay auctions have NOS in the title of them, so they are pretty easy to identify.

Well, I came home from work and tackled the steering wheel again. Followed suggestions made here and used WD-40 and left the shaft nut halfway on so I wouldn't brain myself. Tried pulling the steering wheel off again with intermittent pulls left and right but it still wouldn't budge. Went over to HF after dinner and picked up the puller set that Mike B recommended. Came home and used the 4" puller and....SUCCESS! The steering wheel came off just like that. That was enough for one night, so tomorrow I'll tackle figuring out why my horn wasn't working on the original wheel and installing the new wheel. Thanks again to everyone for all of the suggestions!

I totally spaced on HF. Thanks for the tip!

I've called numerous places and nobody apparently carries a puller with the legs or hooks, so I guess I'll try some of the other options presented. Thanks again!

I was considering getting a puller but I've never seen one that uses screws rather than bolts. If you look at my first couple of photos, you can see that the only holes I could thread into are the two small screw holes. I would think that they would get stripped pretty easy. That's why I was wondering if there was a different type of puller that works better with the situation I have.

Yes, I tried turning the wheel to the left and right and pulling on it. I also took a rubber mallet and tried to "persuade" the wheel to come off by gently tapping it from the back to no avail. I'll have to try motorman7's suggestion, but I may have to wait until tomorrow. Thanks for all of the ideas!

Another nut? I thought that was actually part of the spline/shaft because the shaft nut screws onto that. I added a photo of what it looks like with everything assembled. So now I'm really confused. If there is an extra nut on there, how the heck do I get that thing off? motorman7 - If I understand what you are saying correctly, I should try taking a hammer to that "nut" and tapping on it. If that doesn't work, then I should use the 3/8" socket, place it over the "nut", and then hammer the socket on the wheel hub? I just want to ensure I understand what I should be hammering before I dork something up. Thanks!

Ok, so I'm trying to remove the steering wheel on my 72 240Z to replace it and I can't for the life of me get the darn thing off. After disconnecting the battery, I removed the horn pad and shaft nut and disconnected the horn ground wire (? - black wire). According to the FSM, I should only have to remove the shaft bolt and the wheel should come off. That may have been the case 37 years ago when the car was new, but it sure appears to be stuck now. I went ahead and removed the other hardware (two screws, plastic rings, and spring until I am left with what is in the photos (if I attached them right). I shot some PBlaster along the shaft and tried pulling again, but it feels like it won't give at all. Is there something I am overlooking? Do I just need to muscle it more? Is it time to get a steering wheel puller? If so, what kind is best? I haven't seen one that would fit in those two screw holes very well. Thanks, -Ross

Thanks again for your assistance and all the great info.

I'm not so lucky. It looks like the PO capped the wire and ran another wire out through some black plastic connector (?) and then spliced it into one of the green wires in the harness on the right. I can't figure out why he would have done that. Of course, looking at the mess of wiring, I don't get the feeling he knew what he was doing. Where would the white with red stripe wire have attached to on a stock fuse box? I don't see a place for it. On a positive note, I did find the antenna switch tucked up behind all the wiring though. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear to be working.

Great, thanks Darrel! Any chance you know what size (guage) eyelet I should use?

I apologize for restarting an old thread, but I just purchased one of MSA's supposedly "plug and play" fuse boxes for my 72 240Z. I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to doing my own work on cars and this electrical stuff is pretty intimidating at the moment, so I'm hoping for some help. I went to install it today and realized that one of the previous owners did some "nice" rewiring to put in an aftermarket stereo. After sorting through that mess, I did locate the white with red stripe wire. If I understand Darrel's instructions, I need to run this wire through the hole in the top of the fuse box and secure it to the metal area as shown in the photo. My question is how should I secure the wire to the metal area. Do I need to get a loop connector and attach it to the end of the white with red stripe wire? This seems like it would be the most secure method.

Thanks for the compliments! Is the spreadsheet some type of registry? And where would I find it? The engine bay is pretty much stock but I'll see if I can take some pics and post them.

Well after much searching, I found my car last weekend when I took the family down to Portland, OR for their huge antique show (no, I didn't find the car at the show). It's a '72 240Z that is mostly stock from the looks of it. The PO put some Enkei wheels on it, added a CD stereo and some speakers in the door (really shoddy install though) and installed a front and rear spoiler on it. I bought it from a classic auto dealership that took it in on trade. Here are some pics (hopefully this works):

Hi, Arne. I'm looking for something that I can drive around right now, with the idea being that I'll be making changes to it eventually. I'm not really looking for true project cars that are in pieces. I'm also not looking for all original (stock) cars. I ended up selling my 93 Cobra because I had done some light mods to it, but I really felt bad doing much more to it because it had low miles and they're pretty rare. I'm hoping I can find an S30 that runs (I'd probably use it as my daily driver unless the weather is really bad), looks decent (minimal body damage) and has minimal rust for around $5K. Does that sound reasonable? I watch CL in both Seattle and Portland for deals. I'm not opposed to driving down to Oregon if the right car should turn up. I'm not in any hurry at the moment either. I want to make sure that I find the right car for me. As for what years, that is a toughy right now. I'd have to say that I'm leaning towards the '70-72 240Z or '77-78 280Z. The 240Z is appealing because of the lighter weight and styling (yes, I mean the bumpers for the most part), but the 280Z has the 5spd and fuel injection -- at least that is what I know of right now. I really just started doing some research recently so I'm still trying to figure out all the differences (other than engine size) in the S30 Zs. Another factor is that I'm pretty much mechanically challenged at the moment. I can do basic stuff but I really want to learn how to do more. I figure the Z may be a good car for that. This is also why I'd like to find one in good running condition--something that I can tinker with it and make changes to gradually. -Ross

Thanks for the additional info and welcome, Dave. Thanks to you and SBlake01 for also setting me straight on the terminology. I'm definitely looking for an S30.

Thanks Mike! I may take you up on that offer at some point. It seems that rust is the big monster on these cars, so it'd be nice to have someone who knows exactly where to look with me. Do you know anything about Z Specialties in Snohomish? I've driven past there on the weekends, but they are always closed (looks like he's only open during the weekdays). The owner appears to have several Zs on the lot in a variety of conditions.

Thanks for the welcome everyone! Yep, the NVH does stand for noise, vibration and harshness. I tend to gravitate to cars that fall into this category. In the past, I've owned a '65 Mustang, '93 Firebird Formula, '80 RX-7, and a '93 Mustang Cobra. Right now I have a '98 Pontiac GP GTP. While I love the whine of the SC, it's pretty heavy and WWD for me so I've started my quest to find a Z. It sounds like there's great support here, so I look forward to becoming a member of this community.

Hi, I've just started my search for a Z, and I found this site in the process. I'm interested in the first gen Zs (I think that is what the '70-78 ones are called). I'm still wading through all of the info on these cars. -Ross