Maples71240Z

I have a extra one from my 71, sent you a PM Dave

I just saw this and know nothing about it or who owned the stuff Craigslist in Portland Oregon, http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3369530703.html

It's quiet and about $6.50 a foot I have used it for years on the shop equipment. But the stuff is fractional HP belt and has a different pitch than automotive belt. If you are going to try it get the 3L (3/8") Dave.

I have about 6 of the Ford inertia switches with wire pig tail. If you wnnt one for $8.00 shipped just PM me Dave..

Moved to the correct forum

The 280Z radiator will bolt right in, but it is taller and the lower tank hangs below the radiator core support. It would be easy to damage/puncture the radiator lower tank. Be safe and use the 240Z radiator. Dave.

I have made up a bunch of the Z battery cables using welding cable and crimped ends with a clear shrink tubing so I could tell the condition of the crimp connections. I use a coating on the crimped end called Ox- Gard that is a anti-oxidant compound (not dielectric compound/grease) The best place to buy the ends that are as close to correct as one can find is Genuinedealz.com or their Ebay user name: Genuinedealz. These guys have free shipping and the quality is great. Dave.

Called a residual pressure check valve, Nissan does call it a proportioning valve in everything I have seen. But it as you said is not a proportioning valve. Dave.

Chevette? I think a Vega would be better 8^) Dave.

I bought a Blazer new in 1978 and used WD40 as a cleaner and protectant from day-1. To this day the dash is still perfect and this vehicle has never been parked inside. I have never seen a un-cracked dash in one of these old Blazer/GMC trucks or pickups. It's too late for my 240Z because the dash cracked years before I got it. Dave.

That is true with my JIMMI since it has been a while since it had a coolant change and now the reading is .14 Volts. But the Z was changed a couple months ago and it reads .57 Volts and that reading drops when the battery is disconnected.

I am not really new to working on cars since I have over 45 years of working on cars under my belt. Many years ago I used a volt meter to test antifreeze but for some reason I stopped and never used the test again. Below is some info I grabbed off Google about it. What I am looking for are some test results from you guys on your Z's and whatever else you have to test. I tested a S15 JIMMI I have and it was high as was my 71Z. I think my Z has a ground issue that is causing the high reading. The JIMMI was dead antifreeze but the high reading is what I think caused a freeze plug to leak and the steel back plate of the water pump to leak. This weekend I will tackle the Z to see what is causing the high reading. Checking antifreeze with a volt meter Googled this and found its a great test procedure. Bad grounds can cause the readings below, as well as dead anti rust/corrosion inhibitors. once the readings go high all kinds of nasty things happen. Electrolysis of the radiator. soft plugs to name a few. What is Electrolysis? As the additives in your coolant that keep it neutralized become depleted the coolant actually develops an electric charge from passing over dissimilar metals. You can even measure this voltage with a voltmeter! This small electric current removes metal from engine surfaces leaving large pits or holes and can eventually eat entirely through a component. It can also weld bolts and fittings to the engine and components. The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) did testing with hydrometers and deemed that the majority of hydrometers are inaccurate. as a result of this, they removed hydrometers from the approved methods list for testing coolant. stray current testing is a good indicator Then there is PH testing with the`test strips. Just Google antifreeze PH testing and see for yourself. It does look interesting These are the common readings off the web Negative digital volt meter lead to battery negative, positive in radiator cap touching only coolant. 0.2 V to 0.5 V - antifreeze is still good 0.5 V to 0.7 V - antifreeze is borderline 0.7 V or greater - antifreeze is unacceptable.

I have the piece here that your looking for but the nut is frozen in the wheel cylinder. I am just across the river from ya and you can have the backing plate complete if you want it. just PM me. Dave

Just go to your local parts store and get a BLJ-320 brake line and bend it to fit. That is going to be the correct tube and nut size for your Z. Only thing needed to bend it is a pair of gloves. Gloves help a lot when bending brake lines. This is all I did to replace them on my 71 that happens to be the same as yours. Easy job to do. Dave...

Give this link a shot http://www.v8-240z.com/files/datsun/mirrors/Z_Car_Mirror_Repair.htm

Dave, When I went through this on my 71 I went with 77-78 280Z backing plates/wheel cylinders. The setup is really standard compared to what we are used to seeing. The wheel cylinders just bolt on and cost $10-$15 each with both cylinders being the same. The wheel cylinders fit many different years of cars and will be available and cheap for a long time. The swap was a bolt on, however the outer axles do need to be removed to swap the backing plates. Dave...

Here's another that is cheaper with more tools http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-windshield-door-trim-tool-set-38386.html

Is that valve in the back a residual pressure check valve insted of a proportioning valve? they do serve different functions. A google search for "residual pressure check valve datsun" seems to support that it is a residual pressure check valve not a proportioning valve. Either case the cost to run new lines is not all that much $$$ just takes a bunch of time. On my 71 the valve in the back was plugged solid and the one for the brake warning light under the M/C was also. I was able to tear them apart and clean them out. I did replace some of the hard lines but it was a PITA! I did find that it's a bunch easier to make some nice bends if I wore some good gloves. Dave

take a air impact to the nut.

If there is electrolysis why are the Z's aluminum head not affected?

There is also a right & left side to these. Look at the 2 slots where they attach to the body and you will see the slots are not centered from the top to bottom of the bracket. The correct position on the car is to have the the bolt slots to the bottom of the bracket when ithey are bolted in place.

I replaced a couple hard lines on my 71 and found that bending the line with a good pair of gloves made a easier/nicer bend than doing it bare handed. Dave...

Not that they are easy to find, but the 78 Black Pearl's came with that mirror also. They turn up on eBay from time to time. If you do find some used ones here is a link about repairing them. They are a nice diecast mirror that you can take apart to repair them. http://v8-240z.com/Files/Datsun/Mirrors/Z_Car_Mirror_Repair.htm Dave...

A good locksmith can make a key fo it just by using a key blank and looking for the marks the pins leave on it and filing the marks. Its a job that you can do yourself with the correct blank and a file.

Easiest way I have found to make the puller is with a 12" piece of 1" all-thread and a 10" piece of 1" black or galvanized pipe. Drill and tap the end of the 1" all-thread for the 12 X 1.25mm thread. A couple hardeded washers and grease and you will be good-to-go. Don't forget to get a 1" nut for the all-thread.