mbarjbar

What gauge of sheet steel do I use to make rust repairs to this area.

My brake lines had a lot of old rusty, gelatinous goo for brake fluid (Car sat for 14 years). I have cleared all the lines, wheel cylinders, etc. but have not changed the lines. Rebuilt calipers, wheel cylinders and new master cylinder are in place. My question is: what type brake fluid should I use to get more use out of my old lines? Assuming there is some rust internally, would silicone be a better choice since it does not absorb moisture or would DOT 3/4 suffice if I changed it out each year? Mike

Thanks guys, great help. Mike

Is there any info or chart available that addresses what these different size combinations do to your speedometer and odometer readings. What size combo is closest to the stock diameter? Mike

My 1970's original spare rim is dated 4/70, size 41/2 x 14. 14 x 6 slotted aluminum wheel were on the car first when sold. Mike

Are mechanisms available that can be fitted to my 1970 Z seat that will allow its back to tilt forward? Reaching behind the seat is a pain. Mike

If you go the the Crane website, you can print the package insert and instructions. Mike

Here is my happy update. I decided that my Autozone flair wrench was part of the problem, so I bought a new Craftsman flair wrench that has a deeper contact area. Cost about $15.00 bucks but it did the job. I got the lines off the Prop. valve, removed it and cleaned all the crud out. Yes, it was plugged up good! Now I can clear all the lines and finish the brake rehab. Lesson learned: get the best quality tools you can afford. Mike

Thanks everyone, all good advise. Jeff, what kit did you use? Mike

Got the tank back today after one tanking, looks rusty inside but not like I was led to believe. I think the DIY method will be fine. However, no one, even in the restoration manual, says anything about the fuel pick up inside the tank. Can the sealant clog the pick up? That would be a bear to fix after all that work.... Mike

I decided on a compromise, I am having the shop do one tanking. This way they dispose of the old fuel (hazardous waste), degas and clean out a good bit of the rust and crud. I'm going to try the KBS kit, their video was pretty good. Any suggestions about keeping the sealant out of the small fuel outlet and inlets?

The tank looks good externally, but I wanted to get it cleaned out, so I took it to a shop that does radiators and fuel tanks. The guy calls me today and says that it very rusty inside. He wants $400.00 to clean and seal the tank. Here's the question: should I let him do the work or should I just buy a kit like a KBS sealing kit and do it myself. The tank has no holes or external rust. Or, does anyone know of new replacement tank? Help! Mike

Update: I went with ZTherapy and what I got were a pair of fabulous looking carbs! It will be a while before their installed and I can hardly wait. Great job and thanks Bruce! Mike

Well, I tried air pressure--no luck at 100 psi! Line and valve must be really plugged. So I guess I HAVE to get the lines off of the valve. I'm going to try freezing spray on the compression fittings. BTW, I just bought a Clymer 240Z manual published in 1972 and they call it a proportioning valve. Mike

Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it turned out. Mike

Yeah, I tried that too. The sheet metal its mounted to is pretty flimsy and that nut is on there tight! As I said, the w/cylinders are not installed yet. The metal lines are disconnected at the flex hose. If air pressure doesn't work, I'll try flushing after I install the M/C. Mike

The distribution valve is clear and clean. Pressure check valve, got it. No way is my syringe applying that much pressure. Do you think that air pressure could be used, just to blow the crud out? Then, when the M/C is in, I could flush with fresh fluid before I attach the lines to my new wheel cylinders. Mike

Does anyone know how much pressure it takes to get the rear brake proportioning valve to open? I am trying to flush and clean the lines going to the rear brakes. I am using a 60cc syringe to force fluid thru but it won't go. So I'm thinking that I just cannot generate enough pressure to open the valve or its very blocked with crud. M/S is not installed as yet. Fittings on the valve are so tight I can't get them off. Mike

Thanks guys.

Is it true that the later alternators from 280's will fit a '70 without alteration? If so, do I have to replace the ammeter? Thanks Mike

Thanks all. So once the detent pawl is disengaged, the toothed wheel is then free to move, correct? And, I do this through the small round hole in the drum? I think I've got it. Mike

I am very frustrated. I cannot get the shoes to move inward. The adjuster wheel only seems to move in the expanding direction. So, of course, the shoes are pressing too far against the drum. What am I doing wrong?? Mike

Does anyone know the type and thread size for plugs to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold. I am removing the air injection and need to plug those holes. Thanks, Mike

Great story Dennis. It is amazing to me how all these systems just turn to crap in our hot and dry climates. Did you have to replace all the suspension rubber and body seals? Mine look very tired. Mike

That is the same situation I am in. I have not tried to turn the motor over. I want everything else working first. One question: Can I used PB Blaster in the cylinders instead of ATF? That stuff can free up most anything. Mike