Kyle

Sup duuder. Thanks for the welcoming back... I didn't even know the list was down, but then again, this post isn't really 240Z on topic anyway, is it? The ZXT manifold does look a little complicated, but just about anything looks scary to the untrained eye. I don't want to let a good deal go by, but I also don't want to wind up with a nightmare. I stumbled across this guy just browsing the web, and the deal sorta fell together, seller is so antsy he's got me jittery. but really, what's an intake but six holes and some vacuum ports? Is this forum not the repository for knowlege I was hoping for? I've been really active with my volvo for the last six months or more, and the hot rod community is awesome over there, lots of good techie stuff.

Wow... just stunned. I've been busy converting my Kjet (mechanical injection) 80 Volvo to EFI and prepping to turbo it, and tons of folks in the volvo scene are using megasquirt. It's a trip, I don't see much of anyone using it here. http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html It will get rid of the MAF, allows full tunability with a laptop. If you already have EFI, you're looking at maybe $200 plus the laptop if you don't have one. Look into it. I'm going to go that route with my 72, next spring maybe, time's running out for this year.

I ran it on a 73 and was really happy; I then scored a manifold for my 72, but it came with a 600cfm carb, and I don't think I ever even installed it. I do have the manifold and linkage available if someone wants to buy it...

http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/gmhei.html I've been using this longer than I can remember, zero issues.

It's a custom color, err, kustom kolor? I picked it out from a book full of color chips at the body shop. Basically, it's #112, but turned up to 11. Is there a better place to ask about the intake?

Hi all- I stumbled across a guy selling a megasquirt, 280ZXT intake/injectors, 240sx TB, ZXT fuel pump, etc, $250 shipped. Seems like a good deal, until he sent me this picture of the intake. What's the deal with this thing? Is the affected area the EGR passage as he suggests, and is it connected to the plenum anywhere? I guess I'm just looking for someone to explain what's cut on this thing and if it's usable.

Well... I wasn't in entirely uncharted waters. I had DL'd some directions (from a Nismo Comp manual or something?) when I did the roadster trans. And really... the manual transmission is pretty darn simple to work on once you've done one. The biggest piece of info I gathered from the process is you have to take it <u>completely</u> apart, there's no middle ground. The torque-on-assembly makes a TON of sense - I just basically put it back together, tightened it down with a monster crescent wrench, and all was glorious... until the nut backed off. Simply retighteneing it the second time through led to the binding I spoke of. I suppose one solution would be to tear it down and put it back together again. Yeah.. right! K

The double nut is pretty cool. Had that on the Roadster five speed as well. As far as using a new nut, dunno, I don't have a manual :classic: but putting a new nut on there would require pulling off the rear mainshaft bearing, and that sucka was ZERO fun to put on. Taking it off and on and off and on would likely be its death. I'll just keep beating the stuffing out of it and see what happens... not like it's that hard to take the trans out again. Getting pretty good at it!

The first time the stake was more of a dimple than a "Hu-waugh!" indentation. Didn't make that mistake the second time. Or the third or the fourth... K

Hehehehe... that probably works on initial reassembly; the multi-decker gear and bearing sandwich (mmmmm.... sandwich) compacts slightly with use, giving some clearance. I can speak from experience that it's definitely possible to overtighten it on "adjustment" - even finger-snug is too tight. Is the manual you refer to for the four speed or five speed? I could see the four speed not mattering; there's no fifth gear to bind up. All that said, your post makes me more confident that it's probably set okay. Hopefully the binding will go away with a few miles. Thanks for the help!

Hey Marty- Thanks for the reply! I think there may be an issue with my email through addler.net domain; the domain is live, but Mike said he can't send to me; I posted the question to the list, and got no replies... so I thought I'd try here. I keep up with a BB for the 240 volvos, so I've kinda come around to the BB way of thinking. Plus, I get to show off my funky-fresh ride with every post. What could be better!! :laugh:

Hi all- I have a ZX five speed in my '72. I rebuilt it about 1,500 miles ago, and have been having trouble with the counterhold nut - the nut behind the 5/R gearset. <a href="http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/znewloosenutbehindthewheel.jpg" target="top">Picture of the loose nut behind the wheel</a> Can anyone tell me what the clearance is supposed to be? The first time, the nut came loose, the second time, it was too tight, the third time it was too loose, and the fourth time (currently) I think it's a bit too tight. I set the clearance between the nut and the 5/R thrust washer to .015. I think it's still to tight, as once in a while it will not want to shift into gear, and you can hear/feel the load through the trans as fifth gear is binding. Many thanks!

That's awesome!! Congrats on getting things running... The clunk is your rear trans mount, about $35 last time I bought one... Try adjusting the rear brakes so they drag the same and bleeding the brakes all around. If that doesn't help the pull, then you've probably got a stuck piston on one or both of your front calipers. Just trying to bring closure to the thread:-)

I don't see fuel filter in your list... but it's a long list and I could have missed it. I've had my car to 6,000+ feet and it's been fine. Power is down, but still manageable. I'm pretty sure, but not positive, that it revved fine as high as I wanted to take it. Have you tried bypassing the electric fuel pump? It's a stretch, but maybe it's restrictive. To be sure, and to rule out in-tank pickup, maybe you could rig up a gas can as a fuel cell, run straight from it to the mechanical fuel pump (no fuel filter) and see if it makes a difference. If you still have the stock needle/seat, it might be worth a shot swapping in new ones. FWIW, I have *never*, in 10+ years of Z'ing done more than a cursory inspection/adjustment of the floats. Maybe I'm lucky, or maybe it's not that critical. Have you checked with other high altitude owners? What do they say about this? And maybe... just maybe... your valve springs are tired, so they're floating. I don't know of an easy way offhand to check it. Maybe a vacuum gauge? Hmmm... I kinda like that, actually. If it's fuel starvation, I *think* you'd see vacuum spike upwards; if it's valve float, you should see it drop and/or fluctuate maniacally? This is just a guess, mind you, but it might be a helpful diagnostic. If your engine has 200K on it, it might be getting tired. Your compression readings support that possibility.

Hi- Doubt it very much. I won't go quite so far as to say never ever ever, but... never ever ever was there a carbed turbo from Nissan. Some blow-thru setups have been cobbled together in the aftermarket. For that matter, in the US at least, the 280's were all EFI.

Hi Guys- Man this sounds familiar. I'll add a few thoughts- What sort of oil is in the dashpots, and is the level set properly? Do both pistons rise smoothly when the throttle is quickly hand opened to WOT? Raise the dashpots all the way by hand, then let go of both. Do they slap back down at the same time? Did you maybe bend a needle? It's puzzling that the air cleaner could make a difference... unless... you put the carb-aircleaner gaskets on upside down? Needle setting shouldn't really make a lot of difference at WOT. I agree that this sounds a lot like a fuel delivery issue. Try running it up to 4,000 in gear, letting it sit there at low throttle opening for a few seconds (to let the float chambers refill) then smashing the throttle again. Does that help? Other things to consider - point bounce or distributor arcing, valve float or adjustment, etc. The stock needles should work great with a L24/E31, I don't think SM's are necessarily the panacea. SM's are well suited to L28's, in my experience. Keep us posted!!