260zCaliCar

Have you been driving it all month? What kind of carbs does it have. Why do you think it's electrical and not fuel? Do you have spark? Could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter, if it's a stock 260z there are two filters, one inside the electric fuel pump and another right below it.

I'm going to ask a dumb question to see if it can spark a good idea... Is it possible to drill holes in the backing plate and use clips like the ones that hold on the doglegs, or the door panels? I think I've seen those clips in all different sizes. Just an idea.

Z's... I was going to say... Blakt Out didn't say 5 figures, he said 6 figures. That's a bit over the top for me. I think my neighbor across the street paid something like that for his Aston Martin. To be honest, I love my Z, but... over 100K? Not that much. On the other hand, your spending the money and I am really enjoying looking at the pictures! So keep on spending, and keep on posting those pictures. Thanks for sharing, you're building a work of art.

Happy to help generate sales of the leftovers if there is a way for me to do that. I can take pictures, write content ect. Just let me know if there is anything I can do.

If you made a profit and donated it to the club, would that be allowed? Could be quite a bit of money for the site! Just thinking out loud (in an online sort of way).

If his distributor is like mine, it will only go back on one way, it's not possible to put it on backwards. But just to be safe, I crank the engine so the rotor is pointing forward before removal (just habit). Rskdsk, if you've never done it before, removing the distributor is really really easy. I replace the gasket each time, but others can tell you if that's necessary. The gasket is only 69 cents from nissanparts.cc so I ordered a load of em once while buying some other stuff.

Is the 260 unique? Is it the same on the 280? The reason I ask is there are so many people that come through this site saying their z won't run. I have never heard someone suggest that they check these items, yet, your documentation says straight-up that it can cause a no run situation. Learn something new every day.

I have a single pickup on my 260z (It's electronic, and I assume yours is also). I can tell you that in my 30+ years of ownership, the gap has never been checked or adjusted. Well, I take that back... I was taking it to the dealer until about 1985, so I should modify my statement to in the last 24 years. Assuming there is an adjustment, I'm surprised my Z still runs. I'll look forward to learning how to do this!

There is a difference between the front one and the back one, so if your going to attempt a replacement, make sure you get the right one. Other than that, the answer is yes, you can swap just one and retune. But getting a "new" one and an old worn out one to tune perfectly seems like a little more of a challenge than tuning a set in equal condition. Bruce at ZTherapy would know best.

Which heater box are you referring to, the box with the heater core in it along with all it's stuff, or the blower motor and the box it's connected to. I'm in the process of redoing that entire section of the car and did the same thing as a7dz. bought foam from an upholstery shop. Not sure just how different the 240 is from the 260.

Thanks... Is that a joke? $800? It would be fun to send a guy out there to inspect that thing just to see the report he would write.

Hey Steve, I want the "DATSUN" windshield tint strip!!! Hey Arne, cancel my order! Did you take that picture? Do you have a high res version of it? It would make a fun poster... I could take it out to the garage and threaten my Z, show it what happens to little Z's that don't behave...

You said that you hear the interlock unit click in the passenger side foot well by the fuse box. Something is triggering it, that it turn is triggering the seat belt relay and the car doesn't start. I'd say it was the seat belt relay if the interlock system was not clicking, but it is. So I would look to the seats and belts, start with the pressure switches, driver side first since that seat gets the most use. It's easy to disconnect them, it's right under the seat, you can't miss it. Once you know which side is bad first test the pressure switch and if it's working right, then check the seat belt switch. At least this is how I would trouble shoot this.

First the dumb question... Did you try putting on your seatbelt? Assuming you did, The easiest first thing to try (at least this is what I would do) is simply try starting your car without sitting in the driver seat. If that doesn't work, disconnect the pressure switch under your driver seat and try again. If it still doesn't work, disconnect the switch under the passenger seat... Actually, do you have a bunch of stuff on the passenger seat that might activate the pressure switch? That would cause your symptoms... For further investigation, in the engine bay next to the fusible link (near the battery) is the seat belt warning relay. It's connected to the Ignition Interlock unit located by your fuse box along with the seat belts and seat pressure switches. When you go to turn on your car, the interlock unit will either send power to the seatbelt warning relay which will activate the buzzer and warning light OR send power to the starter motor. Sounds like this is the problem, the question is why.

Funny you should ask about this item. Not 12 hours ago I found one in my garage and didn't know what it was. So I cleaned it up and started researching it. I am attaching two pictures, one of the actual magnetic fast idle control device (FICD), and the other is from the FSM, it's item #129 and is located right next to the vacuum tank in your engine bay. It's still available from Courtesyparts.com and also nissanparts.cc There is a decent picture of it installed here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32396

If your concerned about the cost of the starter, consider this: http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-187-0028-Remanufactured-Starter/dp/B000CB1Z7O/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=005 This is the one for a '70 240z. I bought one just so that I wouldn't have to wear out my original Nissan starter, it's been working great now for months. And... It has free shipping. As long as I am adding a post, one thing that I am finding odd and maybe someone has a answer... I have a manual transmission, but the starters that match my existing (and work perfectly) are for automatic trans (solenoid on the left of the mounting bolt, away from the block, instead of on the right, next to the block). Other than this difference, is there any other? :stupid:

About a year ago, I had the same symptom as you (dead fuel gauge), replaced the sending unit, and all has been well ever since. Did it myself, not very difficult. Before you do the replacement, run the car until it's just about out of gas. Or it could get difficult really fast. Bought the stuff from courtesyparts.com 25060-S30 Fuel Sending Unit - 1970 to 1974 Z S30 $40.29 17342-S30 O-Ring for Fuel Sending Unit - 1970 to 1978 Z S30 $1.74 Hope this helps.

Hi Bruce, I think we all know that you don't aim for a chrome level polish (I was just kidding around). Your product is beautiful, and as you said, returns your clients to [as new or better than new]. Which is appropriate. Every time I see your work product, my first thought is "wow". Smoothing and polishing until you have no more fingerprints isn't nor should it be your goal. (and it will never be my goal again). As I mentioned earlier, if your willing, I'd like my set-up to end up in your expert hands to assemble (now that you have shipped me everything to do it, I'm hoping to ship it all back ).

Is that what a polished intake manifold and balance tube are supposed to look like? Huh, I've been polishing mine and they're sort of looking like the attached, wonder what I'm doing wrong?? Honestly, your new carbs look amazing. I've been seriously considering sending my polished stuff off to Bruce for final assembly and tuning. I'm sure he will do a much better job then I ever could... I look forward to hearing about how your final installation turns out.

Just saw this ad on craigslist. The car is about 15 minutes from me, so I may go take a look at it tomorrow and find what they hope to get for it: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/ctd/1395378600.html Is anyone potentially (seriously) interested in it. Probably a totally rust free California car with original paint, matching numbers, and all documentation from the day it was new. York air conditioning compressor (after fiddling with it for 20 years that's the system I gave up on).

If you return from your evacuation and your parts are not still there, I suspect they will represent the least of your problems. Andrew made a really good suggestion... Photograph everything. If you're insured with one of the classic car companies, all your parts may be covered if you went that route. Homeowners insurance my help out also, in a fire loss, it's really difficult to put an exact value on "your material life" Get your most valuable items (pictures, antiques, pets, and documents) and get out of there. I lived in Malibu for 13 years so I'm really familiar with evacuation, floods, fires, earthquakes, you name it, we used to get it. Well, I suppose we never had "famine" there. Good luck my friend, I'll keep a good thought for you.

Good luck with the installation! If you get something to work, take some pictures, I'd like to see it! On another note, Zs-ondabrain has a lot of experience with stereo installations, I was just reading a thread from him: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32386 He may know off the top of his head if a subwoofer magnet will fit in that space.

The compartment is shaped like a right angle triangle with the 90 degree angle just behind the seat. The depth is 9 inches, and the opening is about 5.5 inches. This should allow you to interpolate the width at any given depth within the space. I have a 6x9 speaker in an old cabinet. If I get a chance I'll take it out and see if it will fit in the space. Unfortunately that won't happen until this evening.

Here Fastwoman, take a look at these pictures, they may help you with sizing. I forgot to clean this area after the car was painted. Oops... Bet it will look better tomorrrow!

Fastwoman, I'm so sorry to hear about your experience(s). I've had the same thing happen to me. I've take my Z to "Z specialists" and they have done terrible work and charged me through the nose. I have now found a guy with a tiny little shop "down on the corner" who's sign just says "Import Car Repair". He likes me to come in at the end of the day so that we can work on the car into the evening without pressure while we talk Z's. HE does beautiful work. Oddly, he enjoys working on the car so much I feel guilty if I don't visit him. haha. Frankensteinz2, no blast Thanks. Regarding speakers, I installed the speaker box from MSA (see attached), and to be honest, it's loud enough, but i don't really like all the sound coming from the back. I prefer to feel more "surrounded". So I am constantly looking for really clean (basically invisible) solutions for a set of front speakers.