260zCaliCar

On the other hand if your really want to impress people, get a double din stereo and install it in your glove box. Then when you open it up you can have a large display pop out with navigation, satellite radio, and a dvd player. When nobody is around you can control it with a remote control. That would be pretty cool.

I'm really not looking to get blasted again (which seems to happen to me a lot here ), but I think you can get some "real" sound out of a retro stereo. It has a pair of RCA pre-amp outputs in the back so it can be used as a head unit and plugged into an external EQ (even though it has an EQ built in), and then that plugged into all the amps you want. So, between two AUX inputs (one in the front and one in the back, the one in the back uses RCA jacks), a USB port, and the RCA preamp outputs you can actually put together a very respectable sound system. Granted, and this may be important to you. It definitely doesn't have all the "bling" of some of the other head units that are available. So the debate in my mind is more "bling with sound" or "originality with sound"... If your about originality you can get it all with the retro and a bunch of external devices... If you want bling, then the retro will fall short and you'll need to get a different head unit. Either way, after the head unit, everything else can probably be the same (but, again, I don't want to inflame anyone, so this is something for the rest of you to debate)... FYI the retro stereo has 64 watts X 4. That's not terrible.

I had a lot of luck installing a retrosound stereo, I can plug a flash drive full of mp3's into it, or even connect my ipod to it using a headphone jack. I cut the faceplate myself. It didn't require any modification to the dash, or console. So if I ever wanted (and I don't know why I would), I can always put the original radio back in. This stereo also comes with a remote control, so if you want to leave the original radio in place for originality, you can install the retrosound stereo under the seat or in the glove box. Just an option.

I'm really bad, but I can't resist... After reading the other thread (and I guess being a bit of a participant) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35981 I gotta wonder if the car being auctioned has been painted? :paranoid: My guess? $25,000 if original paint... $15,000 if new paint but original color... $10,000 if there has been a color change... and finally $1,250 if it's a new paint job with a color change, no documentation of the paint process, and a magnet won't stick to a door. ROFL (I'm assuming it's a matching numbers Z of course...) Like I said, just having fun at my own expense

I also paid 5,000. The shop and I did just about everything together. Here are some picts midstream and finished at the west coast nationals in 08 a couple months after it was finished.

I'm not interested in debating this, but you and I may live in different zip codes. Relatively speaking, these cars aren't that expensive, we are not doubling the value of a Ferrari. We are not talking about the cars historical value, we are talking about it's resale value, which in many cases may represent nothing more than a couple thousand dollars. Regarding documentation of a paint job, it's really easy to take a few before, during, and after pictures to show the condition and work done. Again, we are not talking about selling the car through Barrett Jackson. Most of these cars get sold through ebay, craigslist ect. for a few thousand bucks. It costs a heck of a lot more to own one of these cars then it's resale value. Make your Z something your proud of owning and driving. You're probably not going to be able to sell one of these at a profit so just don't worry about it. Hey, if the cars already been painted "without documentation", based on what I just read, it sounds to me like most of your historical value is significantly diminished anyway, so go turn your Z into something your REALLY going to enjoy (and take some pictures along the way). That's what I did and I don't regret it for even one second.

When it was painted 5 years ago, was it painted the same original color, or was the color changed. If the color was changed, did they repaint the engine bay or is the car "two tone" If the color has already been changed, then repainting it probably won't devalue the car. On another note, how long do you plan to own the car, and will painting it a color YOU like increase the cars value to you... I changed the color of my Z and I love it this way. In terms of resale value, based on the response I get when people see the car I would say that I doubled it's value, every time I take it out, at least one person asks me if it's for sale (I attached a pict for you).

I soaked mine in degreaser for awhile, then took it over to one of those DIY car washes and hit it with a pressure washer. Looked perfect when I was done. Mine was so dirty, I was seriously considering just buying a new one. You can kind of see it in the attached picture.

I'll be interested in hearing other peoples tips and tricks for this also, I have a set of carbs/intake manifold out getting polished and look forward to putting them on. It look really straight forward unless a stud breaks...

My favorite is the 1955 Porsche REPLICA!!!!!!!! It's impossible for me to remotely understand how a replica can even be considered. At least the others have some part of a body from their respective decades... But a replica?

:stupid: :stupid: You should run over there and see if our suggestion to replace the switch was the correct one! If its not, I'll be interested to know what you find.

I don't know what Tyler has already paid his mechanic, and I don't know what he plans to pay for the additional work. But I'm pretty sure of one thing... It's more than $37. If they have already studied the wires associated with the currently installed switch, then I suspect, the very minor disassembly required to swap out the switch has already been done. By swapping out the switch himself, he will PROPERLY solve his problem, in less time, and for less money. IMHO Enrique is absolutely correct, alternative solutions shouldn't even be considered for this one since a proper repair appears to be an option. Fastwoman, FYI, with every one of your posts I am increasingly impressed with your knowledge and skill...

This may help you, zcarsource has a hazard switch for 74-76 for $36.99. http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/58318/catid/7797_7818/Hazard_Light_Switch_74_76_used If you want me to take some pics of mine (1974 which according to zcarsource is the same as yours), I can probably do that tomorrow for you when there is more light.

Try this site: http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html Scroll down about half way to "Wheel Well & Shock Tower Kit" I think that's what you want.

On my 74 260 the answer is yes. Drove me nutz one day when I had the console out. Sure enough I took the hazard switch off the console, plugged it in and all was well.

Here, try one of these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/VehicleBrowse/tf-VehicleBrowse/s-10101/N-111+1978+200731156+600010545/c-10114

Regarding polishing the wheels, I did it the hard way... Starting with 600 grit sandpaper and a lot of water. Then progressively using finer and finer sandpaper until I was at 2000 grit. They were finished off with Mothers aluminum polish (a lot of it). There are many people on this site that are really good at polishing and can give you quicker, easier, and better ways to do it. I spent about a day per wheel... they were in pretty bad shape. The only significant trick was to sand at 90 degree angles each time I transitioned from one grit to the next so that I knew that I had removed all the scratches from the previous pass. WingZr0, glad that site turned out the be the holy grail for ya!

yep, just gently tap them on with a rubber mallet . No problem at all. if they are loose (one of my new ones was), use a little bit of adhesive.

Here you go, an original center cap from my 74 260z. Suppose you can tell why I bought new ones...

I just bought the new center caps from MSA, the originals are in the garage and are really beat up (want me to try and find one for a pic?) . The sticker in the center says "Datsun". P.S. I know the owner of what was Appliance Wheels. He lives in Fresno, I haven't talked to him for a couple of years, but if it's really important, I could probably get some information from him. FYI, look at the center caps on the wheels in this vintage ad, I think you will find it interesting : http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/appliance.html

Not sure it will help you, but these were the wheels on my 260z when I bought it from the original owner around 1978. I am 100% sure these were the wheels on the car when it was purchased, as I knew the original owner and remember when it came home from the dealership.

Unkle, one of your comments is pivotal: "This is after a NEGOTIATED deal with nobody twisting anybody's arms". I think the issue here is that reddat's shipping charges are not typically disclosed in advance, and unless a buyer is aware enough to ask, they get the surprise after they have already purchased the item. Unkle, your point is very well taken, if the seller of an item or service discloses the cost in advance (no matter how reasonable or unreasonable), and the buyer accepts the bid and then questions the bill after the fact... bad buyer... Conversely, a seller expecting undisclosed, and seemingly unreasonable charges after the sale/service is completed.... Bad seller. Reddat tends not to disclose his (perceived high) shipping fees most of the time until the sale is completed and most people don't see this as a fair practice. If there is an argument that it is fair, I'd be interested in learning. Caveat emptor?

You can probably get them from ztherapy.com, and yes, I can tell you that the linkage for a 260 is different from a 240. (a 260 can use either one as long as its consistent from end to end). Best bet is to find a 240 at the junk yard and take the entire linkage from to pedal to the intake manifold. Just take your time taking it apart so you don't break the plastic ends.

You'll be able to get this back together just by looking at some of the pictures on the recent SU carb threads. Question is why did you take them off? If it's because they weren't working right, you may want to consider shipping them off to ztherapy for a good cleaning/rebuilding/adjusting. Then, all you will have to do is bolt them back on

As some of you may remember, I have been enlisting assistance in finding Norm from Zeddsaver. Well, you will never guess who called today! Anyway, Norm was called out of the country in March on a family emergency and returned a couple of days ago. He remembered the parts he owes me and is sending them out tomorrow. As I have always said in every post I made looking for him, Norm is a great guy, and I have enjoyed working with him. I'm glad he is okay.