Richard Oben

I know some do not like the automatic but as a rare piece we rebuilt it and left it in the car. Works fine. Same final drive as a 4 speed so it is not bad. I redid the AC and converted to a rotary compressor and all in one under dash unit, the york dealer add on is ok at best. HTH, Richard 9070.

I will update when the weather gets better again. 5 F yesterday for a high, snow again. This winter will never end. R.

What gets me is the fact that changing the diff to another used one virtually fixed it. Maybe the front bearing in the diff was bad enough that it could not take a load.

Nice find. I have 8/70 #9070 and it is also an auto. Pix will help with everything. Is the plan to keep, sell, restore? Welcome. The folks here have all the answers, I used a ton of them in my restoration. Richard.

I drove it Friday and before I do anything else I am going to have the tires balanced. I had a steering wheel vibration too. Working down the list. I have a series one shaft so I do not need two spares. Thanks for the all the ideas. Richard.

Everything new, motor mounts tranny mount all new. I basically saved the tub and if it was available new I bought it, if not I rebuilt it. New torque converter, new mounts new bushings new, new, new. Now I fully understand that new may not mean good but. If it moved or supported something that did move I replaced it. Every piece of weather strip, gasket, bushing, mount. I kept the rubber on the mustache bar and the rubber for the Motor and Trans mounts but did urethane for the all the suspension stuff. I just can not get past the 60 to 65 MPH and applied throttle only part and the fact the diff swap virtually fixed it. I am going to dig it out since the rain moved all the ice and get a look at it today. Richard.

Zed Head, everything has been rebuilt or replaced. I took it all the way to the tub, new wheel bearings, new half shaft U joints, new prop shaft U joints, everything. I am not sure what more info you want. Ask and I will try to be more specific about what was done or not done. I have an early shaft in the parts car so that will be cheap and easy. To be clear it is not a low speed vibration, it is applied throttle above 60 MPH, not low speed. Wheel speed and shaft speed are a good thought, it does sound like wheel speed more than prop speed. It rained last night so I may move the car around and get it on the lift and check the things listed. Thanks for all the thoughts. Hundreds of heads are better than one. Richard.

I will pull consider pulling the shafts and drive shaft and see what they balance out like. When I say pro, I mean guys who do nothing but drive shaft stuff all day long. I have sent them a ton of business over the years and they are really good, but everyone makes mistakes. I may pull the shaft out of the donor car and put it in, are the auto and 4 speed the same drive shaft?

All the bushings are new, the half-shafts have been rebuilt as well as the driveshaft, both done professionally and balanced. The old diff feels a little looser than the new one. Both are over 100K. The car pulls hard and seems to run fine at all speeds. Only vibrates at that speed and on throttle, it is not near as bad now as it was but I would like to find out what it is. I do agree we may have put stuff back different than the first time. Should I check the balance on the driveshaft and the half shafts again? Here is an iPhone pic of the car. Everything is as new as I could make it. All original sheet metal except the hood.

I have the rubber mass behind the differential, sorry forgot to mention that, it hangs on the end of the diff at the mustache bar. Thanks Richard.

Finally have had 9070 (2400 automatic) on the road for about a year. Enjoying it more and more as I work some of the bugs out. The worst bug is a vibration. On applied throttle is horrendous, at regular cruise it is not bad but add any throttle and it shakes pretty hard. We checked everything we could think of and finally pulled the whole center section (diff) out of the parts car, put it in and it was a LOT better. I still have some but it is drivable now, before it was just plain scary. All the mounts, all the U joints, everything is new. I mean everything but the center section, we looked it over and put seals in it. My questions are as follows: What is causing the vibration? Why would a used diff fix it partially? Is some applied throttle vibration common? The early cars have the forward mounted diff and I understand some vibration is common. I have had 4 other Z cars but do not remember the vibration being in any of the others. Second is there someone that I can send the diff (whole third member) too that can redo it completely. The reason I ask is it feels the same as the replacement diff but the vibration is much less in the replacement. It is easy enough to change (have a lift) that I would like to get the original back in but fully corrected. Are the parts available to rebuild the diff in the first place? Any insights would be appreciated. As I have said before this forum is invaluable when it comes to fixing an early Z. Thanks Richard.

I have most of the BD stuff. The doors are too thick, been on a while and you still have to slam the doors. I have a Motorsport driver door and will put it on, much softer. BD service sucks, and they are local to me. JMHO, Richard.

Any of the small compact units can be made to fit. Making them work right is a different deal. I used a compact unit that has heat and air. Modified the controls to work with the dash controls and kept all the original stuff in a box in the basement. Charged it up just recently and it works great. The old Piston compressors SUCK power and just do not work well. The newer models work much better, and I did not even have to idle the car up. A fair amount of work but it could be put back to original if someone wanted to any time. I did not cut one mount to do the install. JMHO, YMMV, HTH, Richard.

This place still never ceases to amaze me. Put the correct words in and the answers come through. Dash was dim, bypassed the rheostat and only about half my bulbs work. Search for the correct number (also found on this site) and viola found them in 10 packs for 3 bucks a 10 pack, got two ten packs shipped for under 15 bucks. Got them at Cousins Video . Just trying to pass on a good vendor, delete if inappropriate. Cheers Richard.

With that truck get whatever you want. Richard

I took all the connections off and it was 1.5 ohms. Pulled the dual point and put the petronix in an extra single point I had from a parts car and it all works now. Starts faster, I have not set the timing fully yet, just by ear but it sounds stronger. This site had all the diagrams I needed and was, as usual, a huge help. Cheers Richard.

I have a Pace Explorer and have not spent any money on a Hotel in a long time. It is heavy so you need a lot of truck to pull it. It is a toy box, car in the back convenience in the front is it 26 ft with 17 ft of car space. To sleep you need to pull the car out which is fine. I would choose the trailer that my vehicle can pull not that has the most room or has the right space for the car. Serpent express is a soft side enclosed that is really a nice comprimise. Or get an all aluminum trailer that is low and easy to tow. JMHO, YMMV, Richard.

A couple of questions: I have a dual point automatic car and of course nothing lines up. I have another dizzy (single point) so I am going to hunt it down and see if the petronix fits it better. The other question is coil resistance, is there a max or only a mininum mine measures 7 ohms? The reason I ask is can I use stock coil with the single point dizzy? Or is it better to get the Petronix coil. They are cheap and I would rather not have the module blow up as we all know they are expensive. Thanks in Adavnce, Richard.

All the parts were intended for a series one. Like it says I am moving and would prefer to sell rather than move. Best way to contact me is email, richard@northracecars.com I have a Header 3 into two with the two into one coupler square port with the thick flange $100 plus shiping. A couple of tail lights that need some work but are not cracked $50. A couple of early rear wheel cylinders for a 70 240 THEY NEED REBUILT best offer. A couple of dash vents $40 A full set of early 240 Gauges $100 I bought them on a whim and mine work. an early console $50. A series one rear window, it has a very stuborn sticker on it and is missing one defrost tab. Moderators, if this is out place feel free to move it. Richard.

Just did this and had all the original bolts in the original locations. Long bolts in the B pillar the shorter ones in the tunnel and base of the door. HTH, Richard.

I have said it before and I will say it again. This forum is amazing. Without it my car (#009070)would not run, would not stop would not have lights, yada yada yada. I have 4 different 70/71 diagrams and none of them are as good as what is here on this thread. Working on making the lights signals etc all work. So sorry for the thread ressurection but I had to say thanks. Richard.

Box of parts and check on the way, Richard.

I am with the group, what a waste of time energy and two pretty rust free cars. Made me throw up a little in my mouth, and that was the red car. The white one is too many speed racer cartoons but too many people. Pimp my ride guy as a judge WTF?, Barris is a has been and has been for years. I think Jimmy Shine has talent but it is wasted on this show. Overhaulin is ok, Rides was way better. Thank goodness we get F1 back this weekend. JMHO, YMMV, Richard.

Nutz I have one I will need to find it. It is green but who cares. Email me, richard AT northracecars.com HTH, Richard.

Depending on the coating some will not take direct header or manifold heat. For example you can can not silver coat a catalytic converter they get too hot. Your manifold should be fine black or silver as the exhaust is not that hot. FYI, mine is coated black so it will not surface rust. It had nothing to do with anything but appearance. If he can do it, do it. JMHO, Richard.