Richard Oben

Just a thanks to DKW, his parts are excellent and exactly what I needed to put the fluid in the trans. Thanks again. Cheers Richard.

Thanks to all, that is what I was looking for, cheers Richard.

I did some searching but must be doing something wrong. We are getting ready to start putting 9070 back together and I want to have the areas that are supposed to be black done before we put the windows in. So does anyone have any pix of what is supposed to be black ANYWHERE on the car, front, rear around windows etc. Much easier to do it now than try to touch it up later. Thanks in advance, Richard.

Well you guys were right, the new one got here thursday and it is much more pliable than the old one. The difference is amazing, I know things get tough and brittle but this is a stunning difference. I may try to get it in today. Thanks for the help, cheers Richard.

If the slave was a mess the fluid was a mess and it likely destroyed the master. Change it and the tap method to get the air out of the MC is a good one. We use it all the time to bleed MCs on cars. HTH, Richard.

I replied to both Idaho kid and 240kdw, thanks to both of you. Idaho if you find them hold on to them for the next guy. KDW, I sent may address, let me know the shipping costs. Cheers Richard.

I will take them! WOO HOO! What ever part (s) you need let me know, I have a complete parts car that I am using as a build manual for 9070. It is pretty rusted but is a complete series one. I do not need the whole long lines but I need the ends for sure. If you prefer to send the long lines I will take them complete and I insist on paying for the shipping. Call me if you want to 816-436-1610 or email me richard AT northracecars.com MAN THIS PLACE ROCKS! I spent almost all day yesterday trying to get this part. No one had them not one place could match the fittings, not one. This is a true life saver to me and VERY much appreciated. Cheers Richard.

Arne you seem to find all my posts, thanks very much for that, the help is much appreciated. I went to a hydraulic shop today the problem is no one has the 14 mm fittings, that I need on both ends. They tried to tell me it was something else, but since I have male and female it is pretty obvious what they had was not the same. I am off to another one or two shops this afternoon. For anyone else, if you have something that looks right or is even close let me know. Cheers Richard.

Here are a couple of pix. If anyone has anything let me know. Thanks Richard. Lines by themselves and roughly in position on the car. This is an Automatic transmission Car.

Going to order one in the morning. Did get the rest of the work I was trying to get done today done. Intake and carbs and exhaust are on. Water pump tomorrow as well as some other little stuff. Hoping for a first start late next week. Body shop has the rest of the panels painted but I wanted to make sure it ran before I put the fenders on. Darn things are so thin I do not want to damage them. Thanks for all the help. On a side note, I come to this site every time I do anything on the car. It is my 4 th Z but the knowledge here is above and beyond anything in any book or my head. Thanks again for all the information and the willingness to share it. Cheers Richard.

Work with the insurance people. Get prices from eBay and classic auto trader. Try to find a car before you settle. I got hit a lot of years ago in a 71 and found a 72 for what we both agreed was a similar car. They came up with a few extra dollars to avoid me getting ugly with them. HTH, Cheers Richard.

Arnie, before you start on the floors all the covering needs to come off. Save yourself a ton of time and go buy a block or Dry Ice. It will come in a 4 thickness paper sack. If you want to do both cars get two bags. Anyway, smash the bag with a hammer to break up the ice. WITH THICK GLOVES on put half the ice on each floor and spread it around. It will sound like fourth of July with all the cracking and popping but a few minutes with a putty knife later you will have no more coating on the floor. Good luck on both cars, they are both a little rough but worth doing. Learn on the first and keep the second. Remember if you plan to sell one make is nice but not super nice, super nice gets super expensive. HTH, cheers Richard.

Escanlon, no paranoia involved. The tank has been empty for years, so no worries about vapor. I have the filler screws out on the upper and the lower clamp is also off. It will not move in the mounts. As to a new one, it is really in excellent shape the car was a south texas car and almost everything we have worked on has been in amazing shape. Thanks for all the help, I will let you know later today how it goes. Giving my shoulder a rest after fighting again this morning. Cheers Richard.

Have heat gun will try it, thanks Richard.

Working on 9070 and am finally putting the original tank (great shape) back in the car. I can not get the filler neck to move hardly at all. It it not flexible enough to be pulled over the tank. I has not been removed from the car at all during the restoration. I spent about an hour yesterday with various tools trying to get the two to line up. Can the filler neck be moved so I can move it up and then put it back when the tank is where it belong? Should I heat it and see if it will move? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers Richard.

Is there some secret to getting the tank and tube to line up. Working on my 70 yesterday and I can not get the filler neck to move enough to line up with the tank tube. The tube did not come out, does it come out easily or what? Fought it about 2 hours yesterday, tank in tank out, tank in tank out. I just can not get it to line up? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Richard.

Spend the most money you have on the best southern or rust free car you can find. We have local guys who spent 10s of thousands restoring rusty cars. A 500 or so shipping bill is cheap compared to rust repair. JMHO, YMMV, cheers Richard.

Two here also, one is a rusty turd and it acting as the owners manual for 9070. It is a great question. Cheers Richard.

In the never ending restoration of 9070 I am looking for the soft lines that run from front of the hard lines from the AUTO trans to the radiator. My car had them but somewhere along the line someone cut them and just put a hose clamp on. I know it would work but would like to get the original lines but have not been able to find them. There are pix in the introduction section. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer. Richard.

Great work and a ton of it. Be pround, cheers Richard.

Working on 9070 I bought another series one for 800. I have been using it for parts and as an owners manual. Having a complete car to look at while putting one together that was taken apart a long time ago is a life saver. I have stolen little parts off of it also. In the end worth every dime to me. JMHO, Richard.

I was able to replace the bearing on my idler, it was an original 8/70, but the bearing was held in with a snap ring, so different than yours. The local part store had the bearing on the shelf. HTH, Richard.

Beddjj is so right. A few months ago I bought another really rusty series one to use as an owners manual. I have also robbed parts from it. Having another one is great but there are lots of problems with that philosify, money, space, wife and what to do when done. a whole car for an owners manual, who would have thunk it. Cheers Richard.

The best tool is your digital camera. Take pix of everything before you take it apart and then when it is apart. Bits are free, store them in order on an external hard drive dated and labeled or they will mean nothing. Bag and tag everything and do as many bags as needed. Do things like strut bolts in one bag and LCA bolts in another. NOT just front end stuff. In the time it takes to do one your brain will forget where every bolt went. The more clear you bag and tag the easier it will go together. HTH, Cheers Richard.

Thanks for the kind words. I am on hold for a couple of weeks again as more real work has showed up. Still shooting for spring drive, Cheers Richard.