240zDailyDriver

Sweet guys! thanks for your help! I was one of the fuses! it actually began to fall apart in one of the tips and I hadn't realized it... thanks d240zx2! now everything works again!

I don't know exactly when the problem started but just recently I realized that my lights ( tail lights and interior dash lights) aren't working. Brakes and blinkers work just fine but when I go and turn the switch on for the interior lights nothing turns on. I figured it might be an inline fuse but the one that I could find was fine. All of the other fuses are fine as well. The headlights work just fine... So has anyone else had this problem before? If so help please! Thanks!

Well, I have actually never heard of eyebrowing cylinders... sorry, could you explain a little on that one? (I just put an N42 on because my mechanic told me it would raise compression)... I did check the compression within the cylinders and I am getting 185 psi in each cylinder... with the exception of cylinders 2 and 6 which are at 180... umm and the plugs look fine... if there are any other questions... due ask!

Alright guys... I have replaced all of the electrical... and have come to the conclusion that it is not an electrical problem. So I am going towards the fuel... I know it is not the carbs because I have an extra pair that I switched out temp. and I am still experiencing the same problem. I have started at the fuel tank... cleaned it out noticed that it is in relatively good condition. Some of the hoses on the other hand were falling apart. I replaced those hoses... I was curious though... would anyone happen to know what the correct diameter of the outlet hole for the fuel rail is? I was thinking maybe it might be too big not allowing the proper pressure when I need it... Thanks again!

hey matria... I sent you a pm...

Well thank you for the pictures, Will! The louvers do indeed have the holes at the bottom. Now would those happen to be extra parts that you might be willing to part with? I would surely buy them from you if so!

Alright so I just got these louvers for my 240z... and it didn't come with the hardware... I was wondering if anyone had similar louvers... and if so could you maybe take pictures of the hardware? Thanks! Nick

Does anyone have any running, recently pulled L24 engines for a 240z? I have almost just given up on mine... Thanks!

wow sounds like I have some work to do then, . Thanks guys for your comments! I actually didn't know what a colortune was... but now I do! That little thing will definitely come in handy (thanks Jim!). Alright well, again I am going to try and fix this thing once and for all! Wish me luck! (I will keep you posted on whats going on!) Thanks again!

hey guys really quick... I read up on how to check and see if the timing chain is in the right position a while ago, just to check and see if that was the problem... it said if "the notch was to the left of the oblong groove than the chain is stretched" (on the camshaft sprocket). Well, do they mean left if you were standing in front of the engine or left if you are standing "behind" the engine? (picture they show is confusing... reading chiltons repair manual) anywho, if the chain is stretched, wouldn't I hear it rattle around a bit? My first thought on this problem was that it might be a timing chain problem, like at 4500 it would just stretch a slight amount, throwing off the timing... I don't know, just throwing it out there...

Hmm, good question. It does feel similar to turning the key at 4500, but it is a rough deceleration until it gets to 4k. I have noticed it gets worse when it is hot. It will sometimes just stop at 4 and just kind of sit there running really rough. I do have a stock air cleaner and the condenser, vacuum advance, cap, rotor, point, spark plugs and now coil, are all new.(new being less than 3 months old) hmm, the only thing I haven't replaced are the spark plug wires... I know they are about three years old... and they aren't touching anything metal (I just recently bought the plastic spark plug holders)... anywho, I hope this helps! thanks! anymore questions, feel free to ask!

yeah.. I tried the coil... but no luck, thanks again for the idea!

if the timing was off, would it effect it at all rpms? just asking, not sure myself.. what is an easy way to put the #1 cylinder to tdc?

Thank you EScanlon for your comment! I did find that the springs are the way they are suppose to be. I did check the ball bearings and they are all in tacked. *sigh* It seems the distributor is running correctly.. so probably not the problem. I am stumped. I put on a rebuilt cylinder head not to long after I bought it. It is a N42 from a 1975 280z. I keep wanting to blame it on that. I put it on myself, and I never trust my own work... The car runs fine at those lower rpms... and when you gradually bring up the rpms. Right now it is running with almost no vibration... aka it is running well. But when there is a problem I like to fix it. But I just can't seem to figure this one out. Are the valve clearances the same on an n42 and the e31? I have the intake at .010(.25 mm) inches and the exhaust at .012(.30mm) inches. Those are hot clearances. The question is, what would fail when the "petal is to the metal" and yet work correctly when at 3/4 throttle? I know the vacuum advance works and so does the centrifugal advance... If anyone might have any new ideas please share! I will take any little bit of information to ease my worried/ curious mind.

Hello again! I have some updates on this problem. BTW, thank you guys for your feedback! One has actually led me to a question. Okay, so I took apart the distributor to see if the advance was working right. It was kind of rusty in some places, so I cleaned it up and greased the joints. Now when I floor the car, it just stops at 4500rpms... no fluctuation. When I looked at the advance though, I noticed that one spring had a lot of play... and the other one was really tight. Are they suppose to be like that? I am going to try and find a picture of the advance to show you what I am talking about. If this is a problem, how do I fix it? Thanks again! Advance.doc

Thanks! Every little bit of information helps!

So, I bought my car about a year and a half ago... a 1972 240z. A month later, the cylinder head went, so I replaced it with a 1975 280z n42 head. I have had some problems here and there with the car but overall it runs fine. There is just one little problem that no one seems to know the answer to... that is, when it reaches ~4500rpms the engine will die and then catch at 4000rpms. If you keep flooring it, it will just repeat this action over and over and over again... never going higher than 4500. Now, if you give it 75% throttle, it will pass the 4500 mark without any problems. I am totally confused... could it be the n42 head? If you need any more information on the car and/or have any ideas please feel free to respond! Thanks! 240zDailyDriver