CoastGuardZ

Easy there... That's the same as calling the Camry Solara a Supra. Different class all together. Nissan, like any other company, will try to capitalize off of old ideas, they did the same with the dual gauge pod in front of the driver on previous Frontier and Xterra... they never called it an Xterra Z. Other than the VQ that Nissan throws in nearly everything they make now, there are no other similarities.

Well this is a nice and heated discussion isn't it? Here's my 2 cents and I'll try to keep it short, simple and civil... The punishment does not fit the crime :dead: Plain and simple. If you are in possesion of stolen furniture the "authorities" will not demolish your house with the stolen furniture in it. They will confiscate the furniture and then fine/imprison you. I know of too many people who have been popped for DUI who got to keep their cars and now just pay astronomical amounts of money for insurance. No car crusher for these guys. The ricer argument should be dropped. It's no different than any other type of discrimination. Just because someone drives a "riced" out Civic doesn't automatically make them a street racer. Personally, I was once much more of a danger to society in a 5000 lb full size Chevy truck in high school than I ever was in my old Monte Carlo SS, MR2 or my 240Z. Quite frankly if I go to Cali my Z should be confiscated/crushed... lowering springs and urethane bushings weren't stock nor are they required for normal street use so they must be used for racing, and since I don't belong to any sanctioned racing organizations I must be street racing and therefore guilty, right? Maybe the PO replaced the tranny and maybe a shady mechanic used a stollen part to replace it with, now I have a receipt even though the part was stollen and now they can crush my little Japanese tin can... you get the point? A small side note on the Foreign car companies manufacturing in the US... let's not forget the companies that supply to them that also establish plants here. For example if you own a US produced Nissan (Frontier, Xterra, etc.) look for Calsonic Kansei parts, like the radiator. Also produced in the US by a Japanese company providing US jobs... since 1976. So much for short...

Hey Jimmy, have you commited yet? I went to Lowes today and looked at both. I think I have made up my mind too. I want the "bigger" of the two, it has a 100% duty cycle and also the recomendations on the sticker list sandblasters, die grinders and DA's as continuous use - I'm sure this is in thanks to the 100% duty cycle. Looks like a very good unit. Add a pressure regulator and line dryer and you'll be in buisness. After a little research it looks like the Kobalt, U.S. General, DeVilbiss and Bel-Aire have a lot in common. They tend to use either the Century motor or the A.O. Smith motor. Tanks are similar, if not identical too. Some of the other (not exactly insugnificant) parts may be the only difference between the $400 U.S. General and the $1000+++ units from DeV & Bel Aire. The Kobalt has a 3 year warranty and the support of a very large chain of stores, so I think I've made up my mind. There are a lot of compressors out there and a lot of good info on theory and how to buy them... but I'm having to settle for Price + Output = Bang for the buck $. I think a little preventative maintenance ( regular oil changes, air filters and a water remover) will go a long way. Nate

I can see how no room in the breaker box might pose a small issue... Well, I went to HF today and checked out their compressors and I think I found the one I'm going to get, it's only $400... http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=3848&CategoryName=AIR%20COMPRESSORS&SubCategoryName=AIR%20COMPRESSORS I also found that HF has two websites, their catalog site www.harborfreight.com and their retail store site www.harborfreightusa.com I did a little research on this compressor (U.S. General US660V) and found that the compressor motor itself is the same one used (made) by the company producing Bel-Aire compressors. Not really sure if that's a good or bad thing but I found it out none-the-less. Do any of the air compressor guru's see any issues with this model? Will I run into any issues with it being a 135psi model?

It's not hard... you can do it. Many people are afraid of it for some reason, but it is quite easy and safe if just take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. Lowe's will even show you how... http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Improve/220outlet.html

That's not much more output than what I have now, which is nowhere near adequate. It's my opinion that the minimum to look at is 9+ SCFM @ 90psi, and looks like this number is more efficiently met with a 220v (208v-240v) motor. You should figure out what the most air hogging tool you have or plan to use is and go 1.5 times more than that. For example, my angle die grinder requires around 6 SCFM, so 9 SCFM is a good place to start. A very important thing to look at is Duty Cycle... the closer to 100% the better. Here is a Harbor Freight one that I am considering... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92504 Nate

Beautiful! Screw it! I'm moving to Cali!

That's awesome! Good luck with that. Yup, the noise is really begining to annoy the crap outta me too. At first I thought about trying to break it, but decided it would be better to make $50-$100 off of it to apply to the new one. I too am looking at the 220v models... it really sounds like the way to go.

I've heard of people doing but never myself. I would be worried about overworking the compressor motor to fill that big beast though. I don't know. I also have a feeling that, like mine, the hp number you have there is the "max developed" number and not the rating at wich the motor will be running at to fill that big 'ol tank, which is probably closer to 2 hp. So it may take a while and on top of that the motor may meet it's maker quite a bit sooner. Just a thought. OTOH, it might be worth rigging up just to see how it goes. I would watch it the first few times to see how long it runs and how hot the motor gets. Good Luck!

Jimmy, I see you're in Charleston. What part? Charleston is home for me... I grew up in the Summerville/Goose Creek area and I am doing everything it takes to get back... hopefully next year. I feel pretty confident in saying that your Compressor is too small. I have a Craftsman 1.5hp (that is the sustained hp the max developed is 3hp but that seems to be an arbitrary number) 15gal rated at 3.5 SCFM @ 90 psi... which is way too small for what I ask of it. I am currently in the market for a new compressor too, (Yes E, you can say I told you so). From what I can tell the minimum you should look for is a 6.0 SCFM @ 90psi. Also, it seems that all the larger "oil free" ones are quite LOUD. Mine is really annoying and so is my brother-in-laws... also a Craftsman, the 33 gal 2 hp (6hp?) which makes 6.4 SCFM @ 90. We have a BIG and I mean BIG compressor at work which is not as loud as my little "home-owner" one. I've decided that I'd like to get somewhere around 9 SCFM @ 90 psi / 30 + gallons and an oil lubed pump, which I guess means I'll be into one for around $400-$500 bucks. Good luck, and look for a PM from me. Nate

Ha! That's funny! I can't say I like the looks of either the Super Six or the Cedric above, but to each their own. The grill (on the Six) looks a lot like an old Dodge Coronet or Roadrunner. It could have potential... I like to see one finished...

Very nice D. The one with both cars really shows the size difference between the 240 and the 350... man the 350 looks HUGE! You should blow up and frame this one... Nate

Mike, I think it's awesome. I also think that more people will come to appreciate it once it's been around awhile. I finished the basic stuff in 10 minutes and I look forward to tweeking it when I get home from work. Nate

But that's one of the best parts about owning a classic Z! Yeah, I've still got this issue to deal with but it's on the back burner since there are too many other things more important... I'm getting used to CO poisoning :sick: Nate

I Love It!!! I'm such a sucker for 918 Orange :nervous: Nate

I had an '86 2dr and loved it. My wife's is an '05 and we love it. We bought it new for just $13,800. It's the special edition so it has a different fascia, a spoiler, 16" alum wheels and the Rockford Fosgate stereo... which rocks! The mpg on the sticker was 31/34 we average closer to 35 mixed and the last time I took it to DC I got 39. Same body style (B15) and drivetrain from like 2000 to 2006. It now has 30k on it and zero issue. The 1.6 in previous models was a reliable engine and the SE-R had the SR20 . Anyway... good cars. Good luck in your car search... My 2 cents Nate

Oh hey, didn't see this the first time around... even more info than I had. So I was close but not exact.

Negative. The Metro had a 3 cylinder Suzuki Motor, not sure who put the rest of the car together though. The Geo you're thinking of was the Prizm. Built by Toyota and marketed by GM as the Prizm and Toyota as the Corolla. Geo was just a hodgepodge brand. Back to the original post... The Corolla is a no frills automobile that to me is boring and has no personallity. To each their own. A newer Corolla and a Z31 are about as far apart on the car spectrum you can get. The VG motor in the ZX is a strong motor, remember it is also the V6 motor from the trucks, a very tried and proven engine. On the otherhand is has a timing belt so keep that in mind when purchasing a used one. If I was to suggest a car to look at I would have to recommend a 3rd gen Acura Integra. My wife had a 95 2dr RS 5spd, this is the stripped down model... pwr windows but not locks, no cruise, no sunroof, no ABS and hubcaps... We bought it in '01 with 110,000 miles on it for $5500. We sold it in '05 for $2500 w/ 175,000 miles on it. Fun to drive, handles well, EASY to work on when it needed it, great gas mileage, quick and quite frankly I wish we hadn't sold it. As far as work that I did to it over the four years goes , The top of the radiator was plastic and developed a hairline crack $110, replaced the brake master cylinder $55, new struts KYB GR2's for around $250-ish, other than that just regular maintenance. Did I mention It's EASY to work on? Can be had in a four door too and as reliable as any other Honda. My 2 cents Nate

Word. Either the History Channel put the info out wrong or I screwed up the details... My vote is for the latter :stupid: Out of curiosity, how many trees are left near the driveway? Basically, what are the chances of this happening again?

WD-40 here. Works great on any adhesives that need de-adhearing! Not necessarily the 40th marketed, just the 40 that was tested and worked. It was created by NASA and when they found out that the workers were sneaking home to use they realised they were on to something... according to the History Channel show that airs about twice a year.

While I am enjoying the pissing match here fellas, I'd like to clear up a few things... 1a) I would much rather cut out and replace every piece of cancer infested metal on my beloved japanese tin-can, but it does not fit into my current budget and situation. 1b) Lord knows the easy fix is to drop the car off at a very experienced paint and body shop and let them do it all. I just don't have the $5k-10k to have the show quality / better than original work done to the car right now. 1c) I have no intention of paying a bodyman $500 or more (probably much more) to do the patch work just to turn around in 3-5 years and have the whole car finished by another bodyman. 2) I do not want to place (ie: glue) a piece of metal on top of a panel... I would rather replace metal, but as stated that's later. 3) I wish to halt the rust in it's tracks and prevent any further deterioration of the affected areas. 4) The repair is temporary... not temporary like 3 months, but temporary like 3 years. For those of you not in the military and don't understand why I don't just tear the whole car down and restore it over the next three years, this is just simply not feasible. You see, I will be moving in about 15 months to God only knows where, which means that I can't move a car on a rotisserie along with it's associated 20+ boxes of parts around ... let alone trying to sell a house that's full of car parts and a shell in the garage. Well that and it's too fun to drive to be torn apart for 3 years :classic: After re-reading all the previous posts I believe that the POR-15 route will be my best bet. I thank all for their candor and valuable input. I shall keep y'all posted as this portion of the project moves forward. Nate

BWAHAHAHAHA!!!