CoastGuardZ

Thanks fellas. I finished it up that day by using the vent tube hole, and pointed the arrow forward. Got lucky. Nate

oh yeah, something else. She developed a new "issue". While moving, I hear a "pop" and the speedometer needle bounces from above to below the actual speed. I'm pretty sure it's just the cable binding, and since the speedo needle has a little bounce to it anyway I figured I'd pick up a new one. Could a tranny or engine mount cause the clunk? Just a thought. Nate

Carl, I get the clunk whenever throttle is initially applied, ie: starting, shifting, speeding up, and also I get it sometimes during deceleration. I figured I would just replace the diff mount and the u joints at the same time. But following your advice I will replace the diff mount and change the tranny fluid on the same day... guess I better order the part now. Thanks, Nate

Well we had a pretty darn nice weekend here in Charleston. Sunny with highs around 60F. The wife and I got to do some cruising and it was awesome. We went through a parking lot on our way to supper where all the local ricer riff raff hang out and they were all staring with envy... Sweet. I was able to wash wax and vaccum the Z. I also jacked her up in the air and rolled under her with the creeper checking stuff out. Changed the oil. I drained the differential and replaced the fluid with Castol Hypoy C 80w90. I still have the whine from the drive line. I will be replacing the fluid in the Tranny soon too, but I've got a feeling the diff might need a rebuilding. Where is that darn clunk coming from?!?! The U joints seem fine... all 6 of them. How can you tell if the Diff mount is bad, because it seems fine. I guess I will be taking on the U joints as a weekend project soon. Front Right ball joint is TOAST! Crap I tell you. So that is definetly a priority. I'll be replacing both naturally. Rear struts need to be replaced for sure, and since i'll have the front tore apart for the ball joints I might as well do the front struts too. I've decided to go with KYB's... I put the GR2's in my wifes integra and it made a huge difference. Plenty of work to do, not enough time. I leave for NorCal on Sunday. See you boys soon. Nate

Thanks Carl, The plastic tube is already out... came out relatively easy and in one piece. the mustache??? bar is in the way and I was trying to use a wrench on the plug... plus it is square and I have no sockets to fit it. I just couldn't get her to budge. I will try it from the top then. On the cap of the vent tube there is an arrow... which direction is it supposed to point to? thanks, Nate

HELP!!! I decided to drain and replace the Diff. fluid. I took out the drain plug before seeing if I could remove the fill plug. It is stuck!!! Can I fill the Diff. from that clear plastic plug on the top of the Diff??? Will 1 quart be enough? Please help... I have rendered the Z undriveable and it's a beautiful day out! Nate

These would not be a simple bolt on application for your Z. They are getting harder to find also, I too would love a pair for my 240. Nate

I'd say you've got it nailed down now.

I would say you are correct Alfa... I'm not an expert by any means.

Furthermore, G=2+2 (blank for coupes) H=L24 or L28E (depends on model year) this would be an R for L26's L=Left hand drive S30= car model A=Automatic F=5spd (blank for 4spd) U=Federal Emissions or UV=California Emissions or UN=Canada Emissions This help any? Newer VIN's are the longer numbers that you refer to... the VIN you have is correct for your car.

H=L24 or L28 depending on year, yours is L28 L=Left hand drive S30=model # of our Z cars 218079=218,079th S30 produced (roughly)

Well, I thought I could wait for the parts but come to find out I was mistaken! It really upset me that it was just a few bucks from being driveable! I ran down to the parts store to get a cap and four stores later I was able to find a cap and a coil wire. So the car is driveable for now. Yeah! Still waiting for the good parts to show up in the mail... whenever that may be. Nate

Not to carry this foolishness on any further but to answer a man's question... Now to really stir the pot... If I was going to slaughter a perfectly good Z, I would drop in a (dare I say it?) Ford (gulp ) 302. My friends 93 Mustang LX 5.0 puts 350 to the ground and under full acceleration you are slammed back and held in the seat. I have seen one in a Z and was told by the owner that the engine weighs the same or less than the L motors and places the weight distribution just a bit more to the rear than stock which made for a better handling Z. They are cheap and there is an endless supply of aftermarket support for them. Any comments? Respectfully, Nate :pirate:

That's good advice, you should follow it. If you don't want people's HONEST opinions... don't ask.

nice comeback! Now where did I put that shovel so I dig this hole a little deeper

For starters - American has two "a" 's in it and on top of that it is capitalized. Second of all, it does not offend me if you call me brand loyal... that has never been a crime. Blind - Blind to what? The fact that the inside of the doorjamb reads MFR by Nissan Motor Corporation and the top of the valve cover reads NISSAN OHC? Hell you can make a 1000 hp with a nitrous fed chevy engine & supercharger. Nissan never built these cars for huge hp numbers it was intended to be all together good package. The L series engines are well known for their reliability, mine has nearly 300,000 miles on it - that's the original 33 year old engine in a 33 year old car. The fact of the matter is that there is no need to kill a 240, you can kill a 260 just as easy. Please take all my responses to be as light hearted and "tounge-in-cheek" ... these are all just opinions of mine. It's not like if you do it I'll hunt you down. What's your address again?

~Not my fault. If Toyota designed a superior product this would not be the case. ~Because it would be like wrapping a turd in gold... just ain't right. ~In the past two weeks I've seen two other old Z's... one 280ZX and one 1st gen. 300ZX. That makes me as different as they come around here... and hell, my 240Z is a 240... not a 240 with a L28... that's getting pretty rare. At least keep it in the family... go for an RB26 turbo.

Just restating! :beard: